Which brakepad manufacturer

[rs6danbar]

Looking for new brakepads for my RS6.
Which brands are good, and what are the exact dimensions for the front brakepads?

I get alot of diffrent options but the most common is: 189,3, 93,1, 16,6.

And can you change the rear brakepads by yourself? thinking of the electronic parkingbrake.

[grahamh84]

AP’s Disc’s and Ferodo DS2500 pads great for odd track day. I bought mine from clarkmotorsport.co.uk

[rs6danbar]

AP’s Disc’s and Ferodo DS2500 pads great for odd track day. I bought mine from clarkmotorsport.co.uk

What you paid for those?
Im in sweden so i' guess i'll be charged for shipping aswell

[grahamh84]

Pads
Mounting Bells
AP Disks
Total was £1,670.58

[Jim Haseltine]

With the exception of disconnecting the pad wear sensors, with a couple of correct sized punches and a pad spreader tool changing the fronts is probably the simplest brake job I've done in a long time. There's a lot of conflicting advice on the net but it looks like without access to software to retract and reset the handbrake the rears are not a job you can properly do yourself.

[don0301]

Isn't it just a setting in the MMI for the rear parking brake/rear maintenance?

Or am I thinking about the park for the wiper blades?

[douglas96]

I agree with Jim - the front brakes are very easy to change. If you're just changing the pads, you don't even need to remove the caliper. Again as Jim says though, you do need a good pad spreader for both the front and rears.

The rears require access to VCDS or similar to retract the EPB. If you do this, VCDS have a video on YouTube explaining how. It mentions that it is imperative to have a power supply connected to the charging points when putting the EPB into service mode; I have a CTEK MXS10 for this purpose as it has the trickle charge function and a power supply function.

Don - you're thinking of the wipers. That would be a good feature though!

[rs6danbar]

My wireing to the sensors are bad so i disconnected them for good by connecting +/-.
I'll do the front by myself and let my lokal mechanic do the rear, thanks for the answres!

[don0301]

I agree with Jim - the front brakes are very easy to change. If you're just changing the pads, you don't even need to remove the caliper. Again as Jim says though, you do need a good pad spreader for both the front and rears.

The rears require access to VCDS or similar to retract the EPB. If you do this, VCDS have a video on YouTube explaining how. It mentions that it is imperative to have a power supply connected to the charging points when putting the EPB into service mode; I have a CTEK MXS10 for this purpose as it has the trickle charge function and a power supply function.

Don - you're thinking of the wipers. That would be a good feature though!

Ah yeah, I've got VCDS so that must be where I saw something about it.

Cheers.

[ATinOf]

You guys know if there's a block I can interrogate in VCDS to tell me which pads are running low I've go the warning light up on the dash (yeah I know how lazy of me why don't I whip the wheels off and check.... Its too hot!)

[douglas96]

You guys know if there's a block I can interrogate in VCDS to tell me which pads are running low I've go the warning light up on the dash (yeah I know how lazy of me why don't I whip the wheels off and check.... Its too hot!)

Hi,

The rear pads don't have wear sensors fitted so the warning is for the fronts. Some rear pads have a metal plate inside the friction material that makes a noise when they wear down. I don't know whether our rear brake pads have that or not.

[ATinOf]

The rear pads don't have wear sensors fitted so the warning is for the fronts.

Every day is a school day ! Thanks I'll get some on order for the weekend

[ATinOf]

I agree with Jim - the front brakes are very easy to change. If you're just changing the pads, you don't even need to remove the caliper. Again as Jim says though, you do need a good pad spreader ...

Doesn't the universal pad spreader tooling work on these calipers then (Oversize flat-head screwdrever / prybar / or if caliper is off G-Clamp)?? If I need a pad spreader when I do my fronts shortly I'm going to come unstuck....

[Jim Haseltine]

This sort of thing will do it.(Other sources are available).

[douglas96]

I agree with Jim - the front brakes are very easy to change. If you're just changing the pads, you don't even need to remove the caliper. Again as Jim says though, you do need a good pad spreader ...

Doesn't the universal pad spreader tooling work on these calipers then (Oversize flat-head screwdrever / prybar / or if caliper is off G-Clamp)?? If I need a pad spreader when I do my fronts shortly I'm going to come unstuck....

You'd *probably* get away with it, but I wouldn't recommend using g-clamps for a couple of reasons;

1. They'll mark the painted finish of the caliper (Although a rag between the faces would stop that)

2. Because they have 3 pistons each side, as you start to push one side back in, the other side will start going out. Also, if you push them individually, then the others will start to go out. It's like a game of whack a mole!

But I would definitely say get a pad spreader, it makes it a lot easier in the long run.

I ordered from my Snap On rep part number BTCP2S which is an excellent tool, but it took 3 months for it to arrive as it had to come direct from the U.S. as there was none in Britain.

(Sorry for the delayed reply, I've been quite busy the last couple of days).