B5 S4 Clutch advice

[fraser29]

Its a long story so I will not bore you with the details but a minor shunt has now meant due to others incompetence that a new engine is being fitted to my beloved S4 even though the old one had only covered 52K! WHilst this work is being undertaken (I hasten to add this works is being undertaken by alternative specialists rather than the body repairers) I was thinking that it would be worth having the clutch changed. Have any of you got any advice on whether I should replace with a stock item from Audi or uprate from alternaive supplier. Many Thanks

[JonnyX]

Depends on how much torque you are running (planning on running) and whether you are going to
change the flywheel or not. Most upgrade to the RS4 clutch which is essentially the same friction disk
but with a higher clamping force. If you don't plan to go K04's then you probably don't need to upgrade
the clutch at all as the stock item seem to hold up fine even on remapped cars.

[MCB]

Spot on Jonny

[fraser29]

thanks for information. Currently just had revo remap so nothing major and think that I will upgrade to B5 RS4 Avant rather than mod mine even more.

[ZeroK66]

RS4 clutch does not really costany more and drives as well. Well worth doing this, be good for 400+HP and a daily driver My clutch pedal is actually MUCH lighter since the upgrade, far more pleasant in traffic. Could just be a coincidence though.

[mikeyquattro]

depends on how long you are keeping it!
My clutch went at 95k. Standard car though. If you want to pay the extra £200ish then you might as well get it done. But not essential

[Dr-Al]

Is a clutch change an engine out job or can it be done with engine in place?

[MarkB]

Either engine out or gearbox out... as you would expect I would say

[QuantumJohn]

The book says 10.4 hours to remove downpipes (or you can get away with removing one) lower rear of front subframe, remove gearbox change clutch and refit.

After the weekend I would say that time is just about right as well!

John

[Doug_S2]

usually 7 to 8 hours if everything comes off ok to do a clutch, removing the box.

[GrimReaper]

been looking into clutches recently and had a mooch around the recent Autosport show but manufacturers couldn't help me. Basically i want to allow for furue upgrade so that i dont have to pay twice for things. At first i was just going to change the stock clutch for the RS4 one. Now whilst its out i have been tempted to get rid of the dual mass for a lightened flywheel. I take it the RS4 clutch isn't centre sprung since that would run dual mass as well. Got sent a link for a flywheel from the states http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... cts_id=602 dont really know much about this sort of thing. Is it worth changing the flywheel when it come the clutch time and obviously suitable clutch to use with it or should i just stick in the RS4 and keep the dual mass wanna doa couple of RWYB days this yearplus i have Nurburg trip in the summer. Eventually want to go down the k04 route just would be cheaper now than having to take it all off again in the near future.

[MarkB]

Tanoga do a lightweight flywheel. DavidT is running one...

[JonnyX]

I think it depends on your driving style. I would go the RS4 clutch route and flywheel for day to day
temperament. If you get a lightened flywheel and uprated clutch (i.e paddle) they tend to chatter at low revs,
and the engagement point is generally a lot more 'positive'. Probably not nice if you sit in traffic a lot.
On AW, the Clutchmasters stage 3 or 4 clutch with the stock flywheel seems to be a good compromise
between pedal feel and drivability.

[DavidT]

It's the lightweight flywheel that causes the gear chatter. Dual mass flywheels damp this.

[okkim]

I'm installing a Clutch Masters stage 4 clutch and Fidanza flywheel. The flywheel makes a little chatter below 2000 rpm if torqueing, but nothing serious. That clutch looks very strong

The clutch pressure plate is originally from Sachs, but it is modified.