Mine were not in that bad a condition but over-zealous cleaning when I first bought the car had rubbed off a little from both and has since bugged me. Typically with RS4 ownership you cannot buy the items separately and instead have to buy the complete trims – RS4 Tax!
Click on pictures for larger resolution.
1.) RS4 Badge Notes:
- Correct badge is not available separately (read on for more details)
- Air bag removal is required to remove the lower trim where the badge is fitted.
- Complete RS4 badge & trim part number: 8E0498685 (circa £80 from your main dealer)
- Tools required:
10mm socket for battery terminals
Torx T9 for RS4 badge trim
Torx M12 for steering wheel centre lock nut
Long & thin Torx T8 for lower steering column trim
Torx T30 for Airbag
Trim removal tools
My advice is to buy the correct trim as a whole item and fit that. The reasons for this are because the 4x T9 torx screws often break the fixing posts they screw into. You’ll know this has happened if the screws just keep rotating around and around when trying to remove them. Secondly, the snap together clips holding the two bottom halves together are very fragile and can break easily in the removal process. Thirdly, in trying to release these clips you can chew up the edges which makes the trim unsightly once re-assembled.
RS4 Sport Button Notes:
- You cannot buy the S button for the steering wheel separately
- Airbag removal is required
- Lower RS4 badge trim removal required – Read the above notes (you may think twice)
- Complete steering wheel multifunction trim (4 button) part number - 8E0419689 (circa £198 from your main dealer)
- Tools required – as per RS4 badge trim removal
RS4 badge trim removal process:
Most important – I do not accept any liability for any damage or accident that could happen as a result of trying to follow these DIY instructions. The Airbag is an explosive device and when handled incorrectly, it could potentially detonate leading to personal injury. If you respect it, handle with care, all should be well and good.
First and foremost - DISCONNECT the battery before you do anything else to the car. The terminals are 10mm nuts, remove the earth lead before the positive lead. When the positive lead has been removed from the battery, refit the plastic terminal cover. Should the positive lead become displaced it will not be able to come into contact with the live terminal. I tuck both leads down the side for added peace of mind. Finally I switch the lights on to be sure that there is no power left.
4.) 5.) Next, slide your driver seat into the full back position so that it can allow you some room to work in.
We're looking to separate the steering column trims by undoing two Torx screws located underneath on either side. You’ll require a Torx T8 for this but one that is long and thin - the Torx heads are a fair distance up into the holes and a short T8 driver cannot get onto the heads – you will need one that has a minimum 70mm length shaft that fits into the hole circumference - I used a Laser 3420 tool, as some advertised 100mm tools include the handle in the advertised length.
6.) With both T8’s removed you can separate the column cowling trims, lift the top one up and fold it back onto the binnacle out of the way. Now you can remove the two covers located on the back of the steering wheel which hide some larger T30 Torx bolts - these secure the airbag to the steering wheel and are found at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. I find pulling the steering wheel around to keep the bolt at the 12 o’clock position makes it easier to work on. You’ll need the key in the ignition to stop the steering lock from engaging though; this won’t be a problem as the battery has been disconnected. Right?
7.) 8.) The T30 bolts don’t come out all of the way and are held in the steering wheel, unless you use a pick to pry them out. With those undone the Airbag can start to be withdrawn from steering wheel, it will still have two connectors which will need to be unfastened before it is fully disconnected from the car. You should be able to do these next steps whilst holding the Airbag in one hand, do not let it dangle by the wires. Get assistance if you’re struggling.
9.) First off is the yellow connector, it has a purple sliding catch which needs to slide all the way towards you whilst pulling the whole connector gently. It should release, leaving the white material covered wires going down towards the bottom and a black connector. At this stage there may be enough slack in the wires to place the Airbag on your lap (if sitting in the seat) whilst you disconnect the Black connector. When that is done the Airbag should be free and can be stowed safely. I popped it into the passenger foot well, while I carried on with the rest.
10.) 11.) Now turn the steering wheel to be as straight ahead as possible, remove the key and engage the steering lock by moving the wheel slightly. It will probably lock slightly off centre, don’t worry. I find removing the steering wheel totally makes things far quicker and easier but you could do all the rest with the wheel still fitted to the car. I’ll carry on though and detail its removal.
12.) The centre bolt is a 12 splined Torx M12, some people use a Torx T55 but there is a small risk of damaging the bolt head if you choose to use a T55. With the M12 removed DON’T remove the steering wheel just yet. You will need to mark the splined shaft position to align the centre mark notch on the steering wheel. If you get this wrong, your steering wheel will be off centre come re-assembly. Look at the second picture to see what I mean.
13.) 14.) With the centre alignment mark made, you can remove the steering wheel from the splined steering shaft. I took the wheel inside the house and placed it onto a soft towel where I carried out the rest of the process. The towel will help protect the wheel from any scratches being inflicted onto both the aluminium effect trims and perforated leather.
15.) 16.) With the wheel flipped over you’ll see 4x T9 Torx screws which will need removing. If they just spin around and around, unfortunately the posts they screw into will have broken. You’ll now have to lever the trim off with them in situ. Take a look at the picture which shows all the catches arrowed, carefully these will need to be freed off as you separate the halves using thin trim tools. Mine had lots of contact adhesive applied previously which made it especially hard to remove, hopefully yours should be easier. Unfortunately I don’t have many pictures of the process as you could do with about 3 pairs of hands and I only had one hand with the other trying to document it using the camera.
17.) 18.) 19.) In this photo you can see the posts which have broken off from the opposing trim half.
20.) With the bottom RS4 badge trim removed you can now move to image 25 in my next post below. Also if you are doing the S Button then that process is also detailed below. So keep scrolling down