Bose fuse

[bilko1]

Does anyone know where the Bose amp fuse is please? The RNSE in Brutus has no sound and also lost all radio stations I have swapped the unit in to another car and it works fine, also tried the other unit in Brutus and no sound or radio stations. If someone has a wiring diagram for the standard RNS that would be helpful aswell.

[srichards]

Fuse diagram here:

https://www.autogenius.info/audi-rs6-c5 ... x-diagram/

Number 37 I think by the look of it.

[Shoppinit]

Was it a retrofit RNS-E?

/Also is the other car you tested the RNS-E Bose equipped or not?

[steve2003rs6]

Hi Paul. As above fuse 37. According to my owners manual

[bilko1]

Was it a retrofit RNS-E?

/Also is the other car you tested the RNS-E Bose equipped or not?

Yes both cars have Bose Shop.

Thanks for the diagram and pictures guys

[bilko1]

IMG_0850.jpegIMG_0851.jpeg

Hi Paul. As above fuse 37. According to my owners manual

Steve, that diagram doesn't tally up with my fuse box, number 43 is a radio fuse 5 amp. Strange, also that picture appears to left hand drive.

[steve2003rs6]

Hi Paul. My car is RH drive.
I will check my fuse box tally’s with diagram.

[Shoppinit]

Was it a retrofit RNS-E?

/Also is the other car you tested the RNS-E Bose equipped or not?

Yes both cars have Bose Shop.

Thanks for the diagram and pictures guys

OK that's good. Narrows down the options.

The fuse is number 37, but it also powers the head unit, so I don't see how it could be that.

It's a pretty basic setup. The amp gets 12V permanent and the headunit also sends an activation signal to the amp when sound is needed. This is on the "D" connector on the back of the RNS-E. Pin 13 IIRC. You know it's working on the RNS-E because it activated the other Bose amp. Perhaps the wiring is dodgy between the head unit and the amp.

If the other car uses the same adapter harness, you could try swapping that, too. It's easy to eliminate.

Then you can check to see if you've got 12V permanent (red/yellow wire) arriving at the amp and 12V when the head units wants the amp to turn on (white wire). Easy enough to do and easy to get to on the Avant. Check a good earth connection while you're there.

Could be that the amp is just dead. Can you swap with the one from the other car to see?

[bilko1]

Was it a retrofit RNS-E?

/Also is the other car you tested the RNS-E Bose equipped or not?

Yes both cars have Bose Shop.

Thanks for the diagram and pictures guys

OK that's good. Narrows down the options.

The fuse is number 37, but it also powers the head unit, so I don't see how it could be that.

It's a pretty basic setup. The amp gets 12V permanent and the headunit also sends an activation signal to the amp when sound is needed. This is on the "D" connector on the back of the RNS-E. Pin 13 IIRC. You know it's working on the RNS-E because it activated the other Bose amp. Perhaps the wiring is dodgy between the head unit and the amp.

If the other car uses the same adapter harness, you could try swapping that, too. It's easy to eliminate.

Then you can check to see if you've got 12V permanent (red/yellow wire) arriving at the amp and 12V when the head units wants the amp to turn on (white wire). Easy enough to do and easy to get to on the Avant. Check a good earth connection while you're there.

Could be that the amp is just dead. Can you swap with the one from the other car to see?

Both cars have RNSE retrofitted, my original using an adapter loom and Brutus has had the original din plugs cut off and soldered to a quadlock loom. I seem to remember the guy who did it for Footers (NHM Nigel) went to great lengths to get it working as its a MK2 RNSE it's a very neat job.

Just got the multimeter out and its not good, 12.5v at the battery 10.8v at amp and 12.5v at fuse 35 and 43. Got a volt drop somewhere need to find where the loom runs and if it has any joints that could have gone bad. Car was full of water under the passenger front and rear carpets when I first got it and the RNSE was working fine then. Water leaks fixed except the tailgate trim but that shouldn't cause this.

Any ideas on wiring runs?

Years ago I had VW Sharan and the electric windows stopped working one by one, I pretty much disassembled the front of the car to open up the loom. I eventually found a large factory (bodge) of all the main window feed wires soldered to a live from the fuse box under the passenger seat possibly due to the right hand drive .

[bilko1]

The plot thickens, just pulled glove box out and found this lot. Haven't got a scooby what it is yet but has an old Ipod connector on it. I know the big silver box is the bluetooth module.

[Shoppinit]

What on earth is that Frankenstein bulb holder circuit?

[bilko1]

What on earth is that Frankenstein bulb holder circuit?

That's one of the many LED lights thats Footers fitted, guessing its canbus error free with the circuit board Think they came from Trups.

Update swapped Bose units between cars and made no difference but at least it's tested as working now.

[Shoppinit]

Sounds like it's the harness between the headunit and the amp then, or the power supply to the amp. Doesn't look like there are any connectors except for the power one, behind the dash (white connector). I suppose it's not impossible some water got through the pollen filter and onto those connectors there. I'm not sure exactly where it is.

Or maybe the insulation is damaged and the wires are frayed under the carpet.

I hate tracing those kinds of issues.

[Nobbsy]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=144336&p=976041#p976041

Check the wiring under passenger seat, by the seat rail nearest the transmission tunnel. Sorted my problems.

[bilko1]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=144336&p=976041#p976041

Check the wiring under passenger seat, by the seat rail nearest the transmission tunnel. Sorted my problems.

Thanks for that, looks like the same bodge I had on the Sharan at least I know where to find it now thanks.