Slow/stiff steering

[Felix2566]

Luckily I dont have the time constraints you did, so can afford the time to send mine off, if its terminal I will take you up on your offer. Many thanks.
I've decided its coming out, I cant see how the preload would get tighter over time....everything is uncooked apart from the 3 E torx, will pick up my set in the morning and get it out.....

[Felix2566]

Probably one of the worst jobs I've done on a car, such crap design. 100% not intended to be taken out with the engine in. But it's out now and will be off the be rebuilt this week.

[Shoppinit]

Nice one. What caused the biggest problems getting it out?

[Felix2566]

It was the feed and return pipes ( I've taken them off in the photo). They are held on with a p clip on the passenger side and go to 2 banjos on the drivers side. The P clip pokes down and would snag and jam up on the heat shielding stuff. I couldn't get the 6mm allen key to undo the screw holding it on. It was just too far into the tunnel. So had to resort to bending the P clip upwards which essentially made the whole package thinner and then with a bit of BF&I it eventually came out.
Drivers side damper had to come out to make room too.

All the guides I could find were for LHD cars that dont have the feed and return in that layout. They just terminate on the rack on the LH side. So once the banjos are out it comes out relatively easily.

[Felix2566]

Dropped it off with a local rebuild place in Bristol that had good reviews.
The first thing they asked was if it had been crashed or hit a kerb hard, apparently they a re susceptible to bending if taking a hit...that then makes them feel stiff and notchy like mine....I've not done any of those things or seen any evidence of that. But who knows how long its been like that.

They will strip it down and let me know what they find....

[ALE-RS6]

I am also suffering with a similar issue. Mine was involved in an accident which pushed the wheel back into the arch. Replaced the damaged arms and it looks to sit nicely now. However it makes a whining noise when turning left and right and is more prominent on full lock. Trying to work out if its the rack, pump, belt. Also I have the ABS & ESP lights on which when scanned return the dreaded 'brake pressure sensor' code. Interestingly, when turning the steering wheel the 'fault in brake system' warning symbol then flashes up. Look forward to hearing what they say about yours when you get it back.

[Felix2566]

Hi,
Mine made the same noise when I was close to full lock both ways.
It was stiff to turn the wheel even with the engine off. Sadly looking at the damage your car has had and what the guys at the steering rack rebuild place said, it's common for the rack body to bend.

Mine was bent. Luckily the bodies from lesser A6 C5 models are all compatible, and the inner parts were fitted into a replacement body. I have not had a chance to fit it yet. But it's certainly very smooth to turn the rack by hand compared to what it was like after removal.

If you want any more details regarding getting the rack out message me and I can give you some pointers. It's a real pita.

[Felix2566]

Rack is back in and fitted.
Have refilled the system with oil and bled it. I vacuumed out the fluid in the reservoir a couple times to get rid of any old/contaminate fluid after so much of it had been apart.
The pump was making a right noise initially and foaming the fluid. Seems to have calmed down and is quiet again, but the fluid is still quite foamy.
Does it just need running a bit more to get rid of the air in the system? I've checked and cant see any leaks. I have turned the wheel left to right many times with the engine running.

[AWT]

It just need some time to settle it will be ok tomorow

Sent from my MAR-LX1A using Tapatalk

[Felix2566]

Thanks that's what I was hoping was the case. Will be putting the rest of it back together next weekend. Fingers crossed can get it booked in for an MOT and maybe actually drive it again!

[skyegtb]

Rack is back in and fitted.
Have refilled the system with oil and bled it. I vacuumed out the fluid in the reservoir a couple times to get rid of any old/contaminate fluid after so much of it had been apart.
The pump was making a right noise initially and foaming the fluid. Seems to have calmed down and is quiet again, but the fluid is still quite foamy.
Does it just need running a bit more to get rid of the air in the system? I've checked and cant see any leaks. I have turned the wheel left to right many times with the engine running.

Ibelieve thatthe correct procedure is to have the wheels off the ground and turn the steering lock to lock at least 10 times with the engine OFF, or until no bubbles appear in the fluid reservoir. When I last did this I think I went lock to lock at least 20 times until it was bubble free, then when the engine started it was all good.

[Felix2566]

It was all wheels off the ground, but I did it all with engine running.

[Marcin]

Probably one of the worst jobs I've done on a car, such crap design. 100% not intended to be taken out with the engine in. But it's out now and will be off the be rebuilt this week.

I couldn't agree more! I am after doing it on my one due to a massive leak. Like Felix mentioned... it's so tight, there is no room for anything. Never again I hope



I ended up out in the yard as the rack was sent for refurbishment, but after all the pain the RS6 is back on the road!

[Felix2566]

Good effort persevering and getting it out! I was seriously questioning my life choices while I was doing mine!

[Felix2566]

Just realised I never closed this off, the system took a couple days to fully bleed itsself out and not have loads of tiny bubbles in the reservoir.

But is all working perfectly now, no noise, smooth action as it all should be.