Battery Change / Coolant Sensor / Spark Plug Replacement Part 2

[cover99]

Re-assembly - Had to add to a Part 2 as could not add more pictures to Part 1, Appreciate for many this is a simple task but may help some others like me!!!

I applied a thin coating of some silicone grease for the MAF seals after checking condition before starting (Appreciated the advice).

I also inspected the air inlet for the grommets that should locate the guide pins on the intake, You can see the two holes on the cast in image below, also checked not stuck to the pins on the intake. They were not as shown below. Must get these ordered.

I also found a rogue nut on the drivers side threaded locator which attaches the airbox to the coolant pipe. I removed it, this now allows this to sit flush onto the coolant pipe bracket.

Carefully lifted the air inlet up onto the engine and sat in position in advance of locating above the air intakes.

I then positioned the air intake and MAF's above the intakes. This allowed the drivers side electrical connector to be attached quite easily. The passenger side one required a bit of movement on the intake to get it connected. This took patience and perseverance. Drivers side shown below prior to connection.

With both electrical connections attached i carefully located the MAF''s into the intakes and then ensure the locating threads on the drivers and passengers side were located through the brackets.

Using a 6mm Allen key insert the Allen bolt in the front centre of the airbox.

Check Drivers side and Passenger side locating threads in position

I then re inserted the silver air intakes, bit of a pain to get in, and no images as both hands required!!

Then carefully nipped up the jubilee clips with a 7mm socket by hand so not to overtighten.

Then with a T25 Torx inserted the four securing screws on the silver intakes to the front panel.

I noticed on removal of the top carbon cover (16 T20 Torx) of my air intake four of the small washers to prevent damage to the clearcoat were missing, Also the 6mm nuts that locate the intake to the bracket were different on the passenger and drivers side. Decide to source some replacements, Although not genuine OEM they do nicely.

These were installed to secure the carbon cover and the 6mm flanged nuts installed.

6mm Flange nuts also attached to secure the air intake to the brackets on the passenger and drivers side.

And that I believe was it all back together.

Unfortunately on this occasion after summoning the conviction to put the ignition back to position 1.... Both fans started up

[Felix2566]

Nice work and love the attention to detail. Very pleasing to get it back to factory correct condition!

[TOPMAN]

Hello!

Those airbox grommets were still available from LLParts in the UK a couple of years ago - so fingers crossed.

I paid the following:
N10551301 (GENUINE VW/AUDI) 2 €3.20 24% €3.96 €7.92

Regards
Craig


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[cover99]

Thanks for this.

Unfortunately the temp sensor change has not resolved both my fans starting when ignition put to position 1.

Could I ask @ Craig did both your fans start and run at position 1 when the aircon switch you had a poor connection to was at fault? This maybe my next thing!!!!!!! Arghhh

Is the high pressure sensor is for the AC a possibility for running both fans on full.

If so how easy is it to change the switch, can you do this without removing anything? Or Headlight ? or do you need the bumper off!!

Thanks again....

Steve

[TOPMAN]

Thanks for this.

Unfortunately the temp sensor change has not resolved both my fans starting when ignition put to position 1.

Could I ask @ Craig did both your fans start and run at position 1 when the aircon switch you had a poor connection to was at fault? This maybe my next thing!!!!!!! Arghhh

Is the high pressure sensor is for the AC a possibility for running both fans on full.

If so how easy is it to change the switch, can you do this without removing anything? Or Headlight ? or do you need the bumper off!!

Thanks again....

Steve

Hi Steve

Yes, both fans whirring at full speed on position 1, until the connection was proper tight. And I think the ECON light comes on the heater controls.
I don’t think you can reach it without loosening the bumper. I can check tomorrow for you.
Craig


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[TOPMAN]

Thanks for this.

Unfortunately the temp sensor change has not resolved both my fans starting when ignition put to position 1.

Could I ask @ Craig did both your fans start and run at position 1 when the aircon switch you had a poor connection to was at fault? This maybe my next thing!!!!!!! Arghhh

Is the high pressure sensor is for the AC a possibility for running both fans on full.

If so how easy is it to change the switch, can you do this without removing anything? Or Headlight ? or do you need the bumper off!!

Thanks again....

Steve

Hi Steve

Yes, both fans whirring at full speed on position 1, until the connection was proper tight. And I think the ECON light comes on the heater controls.
I don’t think you can reach it without loosening the bumper. I can check tomorrow for you.
Craig


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Hello

So yes it’s possible to reach it from the top if you do not have that rubber air guide in the way. If you do, then I think you can just undo the top screw and bend it to the left to gain access. I don’t have the right hand side air guide. You should get enough access to be able to see if the plug is loose and maybe even apply a bit of leverage.

Craig


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[cover99]

Cheers Craig. I do have the air guide but will just remove it. Will have a look for the connector and see what its like. May replace the sensor if it seems fully home as i have not seen anything else posted in the search history that would explain this. Once again Thanks!!!!

[TOPMAN]

Cheers Craig. I do have the air guide but will just remove it. Will have a look for the connector and see what its like. May replace the sensor if it seems fully home as i have not seen anything else posted in the search history that would explain this. Once again Thanks!!!!

I would imagine that if your remove the left headlamp (nearest) you may have enough access to change that sensor. Otherwise it’s a front bumper removal kind of job. Oh and I imagine you’ll loose your aircon gas?


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[cover99]

Cheers Craig. I do have the air guide but will just remove it. Will have a look for the connector and see what its like. May replace the sensor if it seems fully home as i have not seen anything else posted in the search history that would explain this. Once again Thanks!!!!

I would imagine that if your remove the left headlamp (nearest) you may have enough access to change that sensor. Otherwise it’s a front bumper removal kind of job. Oh and I imagine you’ll loose your aircon gas?


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I did wonder if it maybe possible with the headlight removed from looking at the picture. I had been hoping there may have been a shut off valve that prevented pressure loss.....but guess will find out if a sensor change is required when covered in Aircon gas.

[Shoppinit]

Yeah but you have to remove the bumper to remove the headlight.

The sensor is on a schrader valve IIRC so you don’t lose any gas.

[cover99]

Thanks for that Ben you gave me the positive with the valve then just cheered me right up with that Audi design gem of the bumper needing remover to take a bloody headlight out!!!

I have been out and had a look. With the rubber air guide? pulled to the side i could check the electrical connector. Sadly its definitely 100% located, when levering it the whole rad moves.

I will post a picture tomorrow.

Sensor after a quick wipe with a rag.

However on a positive you can get a 17mm spanner on the sensor nut, and can get it to turn so I would assume!!!!! "Big assumption" i could get the electrical connector off and carefully extract the sensor.

Spanner attached - Picture not great.

Anyway don't have a spare so no more tonight.