Would welcome some ideas on how to resolve this one...
Electrical issue of some description.
Battery and alternator are relatively new and both appear to be functioning fine (based upon the voltage guage).
Car fires up fine if sat overnight or left for 45min+ since last use, and also fires up fine straight after reconnecting the battery (if had been disconnected for some time whilst in storage).
Issue arises if you try and start it after a few minutes from stopping it (e.g. a petrol station or popping in to a Shop).
You turn on the ignition, everything lights up and makes the noises it should, volt meter rises to just over 12V, but nothing... starter motor doesn't even try to turn or click.
Through trial and error, seems if I leave the car parked up for 45min or more, it then fires up fine.
VCDS seemed to show the immobiliser was being turned off correctly with the key, but acts like it's immobilised.
I even tried putting a fresh battery in my spare key and reprogramming that back up successfully, but won't start up with that key either, during that 45min dead zone.
I did have a probably related issue several months back. Starter motor would work, though, but just buzzed - like it had jammed/wasn't getting enough juice.
I replaced the related relay(s) behind the knee bolster area of the dash and it seemed fine after that.
I tried pulling and swapping those same relays when this latest issue arose, but didn't seem to help.
Disconnecting the battery for a few mins didn't seem to help either.
Only workaround seems to be to leave it 45min or more.
Presuming some sort of capacative charge remaining where it shouldn't be, which dissipates over time, but don't really know where to start to look to rectify it.
Any suggestions?
Odd one...
Odd one...
Last edited by TechNick on Sun Mar 03, 2024 6:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Odd one...
I’ve had a similar problem to this in the past. The starter was old and suffering from heat soak. Had the starter rebuilt and it’s been fine since. Manually apply power to the solenoid and see if she works, if not then you’ve probably found your issue 
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. BRV Plus Engine, 550cc Injectors, Custom Tune, DO88 Silicone Pipework, Waggers, Hybrid Turbos, Direnza DownPipes with 200 CEL CATS, Milltek Exhaust, Sonnax Modified Valve Body, Uprated Clutches, Uprated Torque Convertor, R8 Carbon Ceramics, K&W v1, Exclusive Interior, Creations Motorsport Billet Coolant Cap and PCV Valve (woohoo)
Re: Odd one...
Sounds like the crank position sensor. Quite common failure and symptoms like yours.
Doesn’t give any fault codes. Cranks but just doesn’t fire.
Doesn’t give any fault codes. Cranks but just doesn’t fire.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Odd one...
Thanks. Hoping it isn't the starter, as it's not very easy to get to on these, from what I understand (not that much is, of course!)TOPMAN wrote:I’ve had a similar problem to this in the past. The starter was old and suffering from heat soak. Had the starter rebuilt and it’s been fine since. Manually apply power to the solenoid and see if she works, if not then you’ve probably found your issue
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Re: Odd one...
Thanks Ben.Shoppinit wrote:Sounds like the crank position sensor. Quite common failure and symptoms like yours.
Doesn’t give any fault codes. Cranks but just doesn’t fire.
It isn't cranking at all, during that dead zone period, though - turn the key and nada
Re: Odd one...
Oh. My bad. That’s a completely different problem then.
Immobiliser won’t stop it cranking.
Check the gearbox with Vagcom to see if it thinks the selector isn’t in P.
Check the 200A fuse in the scuttle.
Get a LED or multimeter on the starter to see
If it’s getting a signal to the solenoid.
Check the brake light switch. Belt and braces.
/my gut says starter motor, but that’s possibly because I’ve got them on my mind because I’ve a similar issue with the M3.
Immobiliser won’t stop it cranking.
Check the gearbox with Vagcom to see if it thinks the selector isn’t in P.
Check the 200A fuse in the scuttle.
Get a LED or multimeter on the starter to see
If it’s getting a signal to the solenoid.
Check the brake light switch. Belt and braces.
/my gut says starter motor, but that’s possibly because I’ve got them on my mind because I’ve a similar issue with the M3.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Odd one...
Thanks. Few things to try! 
