Diy oil pump removal?

[VaudiGR]

My mechanic didn't like doing the same job in another 50k kms so here is what mod he did.
Instead of using the oem bolts for the triangular flange, he used custom made fixed bolts with loctite which will never have to be removed again. Oil pump module can slide forward in future removal. We then used additionally to the o ring, good old Honda bond.

Hondabond was proven to hold 2.2bar boost when applied in the cam cover rubber gasket as a thin layer on my RS2. Seems to be a problem solver!

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[French]

My beloved RS6 is a leaker, had her for 6 yrs now, and it's not getting better, I've been putting it off for years now, but I'm going to have to bite the bullet and crack on....I thought removing the engine was a lesser evil as I prob need to change the Coolant pipes....

However, I've not really studied the task yet....Just changing the spark plugs is a pain...

[Jim Haseltine]

I'd concur with that. The coolant pipes CAN be changed without pulling the engine - and I'm not talking about a cut'n'shut job - BUT it takes ages and it's unbelievably difficult even when compared with other jobs on the V10. The main issue for DiY of the jobs is the sheer amount of space you need once the engine is out of the car unless all you do is just move the thing forwards a foot or so like I did when I did my oil seal.
When I changed the starter motor last year I was lucky enough to be able to use my parent's carport & garage setup though things were still tight as they were having another outbuilding replaced at the time so the garage was full of bikes and garden machinery which didn't leave me much elbow room once the engine & box were in there. It doesn't help that the downpipes add a couple of feet to the length of the assembly.

[lozza2702]

I did it twice on mine without removing bumper, radiator, AC compressor etc. The only thing I removed was the stabilizer. But still, it was a two and half day job for me doing this without help form other persons. And it is a time of continous swearing because of limited space and too large fingers (

The most important thing is to have a plier with a bowden cable for the hose clamps of the water tube in the front and to totally remove the two angle mounts with which the oil module is fixed to the motor. Without the latter it is impossible to move the pump in its correct position. I took me alomst two hours to find this out. The second time I did this, I wanted to first remove the tube cover of the water pump to have more room to work, but in the end I failed to open one of the four allen head bolts. So I removed and reinstalled the oil pump as a whole. The final part to have the water tube above the pump in the right position is a little bit tricky, but feasible.

Best

Ruedi

I realise that I'm resurrecting a very old thread, but I could do with some help! I'm doing the pump removal with engine in the car. So far, ani role bar, front rad pack removed and nearside (UK) intercooler/rad removed
All pipes from from oil pump and water pump removed and the oil pump unbolted from the block. I've not removed the water pump from the oil pump.
I'm having trouble moving the pump forward as it seems to be snagging air compressor. Is there a way to remove the oil pump with the air compressor in place? Is it just a case of getting it in the right position?

[ruedisrs6]

I must say, that it worked in my case (LH drive car) without demounting of the AC compressor, however, as I wrote the two angle mounts with which the oil module is fixed to the motor need to be removed. Otherwise I was not able ne rotate the oil module sufficently which made it hard to remove it and more importantly put it in again.

[Jim Haseltine]

I know what you're thinking, thought I was going to have to go that route first time I had my pump off but there's no need to remove compressor.
Resistance to moving the pump is mostly down to the driveshaft splines sticking to the accessory drive, the shaft cover not wanting to move from the either or both of the cover seals (even the one that's leaking) or the hidden push-fit coolant connecting pipe on top of the pump - from heat and age it tends to stick in place and can be something of a pain to remove.
Or all of them.
It's best to keep the pump supported at the front end to stop the weight of the pump jamming the driveshaft splines then ease the thing forwards to release it.

[lozza2702]

Thanks so much for the replies. I’ll have another go!

[lozza2702]

Thanks so much for the replies. I’ll have another go!

Got the pump removed - thanks for the tips. The rear oil seal was as expected solid and brittle. While the pumps out I'm going to strip it down and replace the check valves - I don't want to be doing this job again any time soon!