JamesBaby’s B7 RS4 Avant Daytona & Phantom

[JamesBaby]

RS4 Lower Door Trims

The RS4 lower door trims are known to warp over time due to the metal inside them corroding. Or the metal pegs onto which they slide and fix onto corroding.

This can cause unsightly warping. They are getting rarer to buy new so I thought I’d take mine off and clean them up. Thankfully mine are not warped.

The lower door trims are simple to remove by a Philips screw on each end on the inside of the door. Once unscrewed the door trim is slid backwards, along the door. This disengages it from the several mounting points welded to the doorskin. Then it simply pulls off. Do not pull at the trim without first sliding it backwards off the mounting points.

On my car there was some dirt behind there but I’ve heard of cars being caked in dirt. So give it a good clean.

I found my mounting points were starting to rust. So I put rust remover on them. Then I sanded them. Then I painted them with hammerite.





Painted over



I then put resilient grease into the plastic mounting point so that when I slide them back on the grease will cover the metal pegs






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[JamesBaby]

RS4 B7 Dashboard & Trim clean and steam clean seats.

My interior looks mint but when I saw Steve’s 25k mile example I realised that the dashboard wasn’t the factory looking matt black.

So I decided to use an Audi Plastic Cleaner on it and I have to say I’m impressed. It’s brought it back to the factory matt look.



The product was applied using a cloth and rubbed/polished in. You can’t use it as a spot cleaner. Whole panels only. Then a bucket of clean water and a sponge to rinse it off. Wiping multiple times whilst rinsing in the bucket.

Left to dry off the look was fantastic. Years of product it flash dash removed.

After a few days I noticed that some areas needed doing again as I could see patches in certain lighting conditions. So I did the process again and it’s lush. I did all the doors too.






I also used my steam cleaner and gave the seats a good clean.



Also gave the car a wash and went for a blast.






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[audinick]

Tidy that mate

[JamesBaby]

Thanks Nick.

I also set about cleaning the engine bay. Here I also dressed the plastic trim with an Audi Plastic Trim Treatment. This is rubbed in and once dry gently buffed to leave a satin finish.






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[JamesBaby]

Since buying the car I never had a proper look underneath to check for corrosion and the state of the DRC hard lines.

My previous Daytona had spent time in Scotland and had surface rust and the arch wells needed attention. The jacking points needed attention too I recall.

On mine I recently had taken the arch liners out to clean them and the arches, and noticed dirt near the welds and some light rust.

I hired a ramp at a place in Oldham called Booth Hill Auto. They offer ramp hire by the hour and it’s an excellent service. Large spacious area with a full set of tools. Although I took mine with me.

After removing all the under trays and plastic covers I was pleasantly surprised. There was hardly any rust at all. There was no rust on the sills either or damage.

In the few places where there was dotted rust I rubbed it off with a wire brush on a drill. I rubbed down the sill edges and body edges, and done parts under the engine near the radiators.

I then used Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to convert any rust. You brush it on and it converts any rust to a stable metal.

I then coated it with brush on Hammerite underseal which includes waxoyl.

Here are some pictures. The work is all hidden so excuse that my effort isn’t a Picasso









My next step will be to clear wax coat the underside of the car with something like Bilt Hamber S50, or perhaps Lanoguard.


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[Mav8]

Great updates mate
What’s next on the to do list?
Mav8

[JamesBaby]

Thanks Mav8. I’m really enjoying driving and working on the car.

Next?, we’ll I have a stack of parts 3ft high now. I’ve been collecting them when I found mega deals.

Full suspension arm and bush refurb, front & rear is probably the next big job.

My exhaust flexis are looking worn so some kind of exhaust mod might be on the cards.




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[JamesBaby]

The bucket seats have leather covers that should be fixed into the seat frame by way of special fixings.




These fixings are often not put back in if the cover has been undone. This causes the leather not to be tight and stretched properly. This causes big creases in the leather, premature wear, and squeaks as the leather moves when you sit in it.

You can easily tell by the loose cover and by looking along where the leather fixes into the groove of the frame. Easily visible if it’s just tucked loosely or tightly in there.

I bought the correct fixing and using a plastic trim tool to push the leather into place properly.

In this pic you can see that my passenger seat has creases in it, but now is snugly fitted.



This is my drivers seat which was still tightly fitted into the frame.




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[JamesBaby]

So I have started a couple of projects for RS4 B7 owners.

Firstly I am in the process of getting the DRC hardlines made up in stainless steel, and at way less cost than Audi. I hope to have a few sets made up and sell them as a kit of all 4 lines.

Secondly I have made a batch of OEM looking mats. Lots of aftermarket mats available but non with the OEM large logo in RHD format. So I made some up for those purists like me who want the OEM look.

More info to follow.



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[Mav8]

Look great
If I still had my B7 I’d be all over these
Mav8

[JamesBaby]

Audi RS4 Avant Reverse Camera Install




I recently fitted a reverse camera to my Rs4 Avant. By using the harnesses from Enfig.com it’s quite easy.
I already installed an aftermarket head unit to my car as posted earlier in this thread. In that thread you can see I used a special harness that allows the simple swap from the factory Bose system to any aftermarket unit.

https://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_SRWH_AUD3_HILO.html

What is special about this harness is that as well as the hi-lo convertor required to provide correct power to the Bose speakers\Amps (otherwise you get poor volume and quality), it also provides a Switched live, handbrake signal, and reverse signal wires. All this without tapping feeds and messing about.
I also used the Enfig ISO harness rather than the one supplied by Pioneer in the box. It does the same thing but the wires are correct length and pre terminated with bullet connectors making it simpler to connect. Plug & play.

https://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_PNP_RADIO.html

Well, it transpires that Enfig also offer a harness that connects between the above harnesses that will provide a proper switched power feed for the reverse camera. This is important because most people faff about trying to tap a feed from the reverse light. This causes camera issues because of the CANBUS system which checks for bulb failure and thus requires yet another module\relay in between to convert the power feed to a stable one useful for a camera. You still have to route the video cable to the front, so a power cable doesn’t add any more work. Some camera video cables even have a power lead embedded in them.

https://enfigcarstereo.com/ENFIG_SRWH_BUC.html

The other important thing is that cameras are not meant to be powered on all the time. It shortens their life, and you can see many reviews online from people complaining their cameras didn’t last long. I assume this is because they haven’t created a proper switched power source only coming on when reverse is engaged. This harness removes all these issues.

I will assume you already have an aftermarket stereo installed.

The install process is:
Install the camera to the rear boot handle fitting.
Route the video cable, and power cable from the boot to the stereo and connect up.

Remove the boot lid interior trim to allow access to the boot handle. Here is a good YouTube for it:

https://youtu.be/S-io_SuWlpY

From inside undo the 4 bolts (2 each side) securing the boot handle assembly and remove from the vehicle. (If your number plate is in a frame you may have to unscrew it first as it may hinder the handle from popping out.) Here is a YouTube for it:

https://youtu.be/kYX_nGBJ0TM








It is obvious when you look at the assembly where the camera can be installed. Namely to the left or the right of the boot switch.
After confirming the correct position, drill a suitable sized hole to allow the camera cable to pass through it. Using the fixings that came with the camera, bolt the camera to the fitting and re-install. My camera came with spacers that allow adjustment of the camera angle. I used the thinner 5 degree spacer provided, to tilt the camera upwards from the floor.
Route the cable neatly around the boot lid to the left boot hinge on a RHD car, as you will go down the left hand passenger side of the car to the stereo. (If your car is LHD drive do opposite).

Having removed the plastic trim from inside the boot lid you will now see the exposed hinges, covered in additional plastic trim. On the left hinge gently pop off to expose the rubber covered harness. You also need to pop off the central interior roof trim that meets the boot door seal at the top. It just pulls off with a firm action. There is a long trim along the top along the hinges that also gently pops off.



You now have to pop off the grommets at each end of the rubber harness cover where it meets the body.

Now is the hard slow part. You have to feed the camera video cable and power cable through that sheath. Run the cable to the upper grommet. Using a coat hanger wire, tape the cable end to the coat hanger and push\pull the cable through. The tight space and the curve makes this a test of patience. Use of a silicone spray will help it slide through. Persevere.

If you know how to join wires you can actually cut off the Video connector and reattach\solder it back on later. This makes getting it through that rubber harness cover easier.

With the hard part over the rest is just a case of routing the cable to the front. Having fed the cables through the rubber grommet into the roof panel, you will see clearly that there are gaps where you can feed the cable through to the left side of the Avant boot.

The left trim needs to be pulled off its clips to enable you to route the cable to the left hand sills. Here is a good YouTube again:

https://youtu.be/7KEYRtLBzNM

On the saloon it might be different but on the Avant you have to undo the left boot strap mounts, remove the 4 screws for the load protector panel cover, and remove a screw on the left panel itself. Then with a firm pull pop off the trim. This allows access to behind the left boot trim enabling you to route your cables to the sills and to the stereo.

When going down across the sills i found that I could pull on the rear sill trims and push the video cable etc up into the sill. This saved me having to undo the central pillar trim, and rear sill trim. The passenger sill trim just pulls up. Then remove the left hand dash board cover, and trim. Undo the 6 bolts holding the glovebox and lower it or remove it out of the way. You now have free access to rout the video cable and power to the back of the stereo unit.

I'll try to post some more pictures later.

[rshales007]

Since buying the car I never had a proper look underneath to check for corrosion and the state of the DRC hard lines.

My previous Daytona had spent time in Scotland and had surface rust and the arch wells needed attention. The jacking points needed attention too I recall.

On mine I recently had taken the arch liners out to clean them and the arches, and noticed dirt near the welds and some light rust.

I hired a ramp at a place in Oldham called Booth Hill Auto. They offer ramp hire by the hour and it’s an excellent service. Large spacious area with a full set of tools. Although I took mine with me.

After removing all the under trays and plastic covers I was pleasantly surprised. There was hardly any rust at all. There was no rust on the sills either or damage.

In the few places where there was dotted rust I rubbed it off with a wire brush on a drill. I rubbed down the sill edges and body edges, and done parts under the engine near the radiators.

I then used Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to convert any rust. You brush it on and it converts any rust to a stable metal.

I then coated it with brush on Hammerite underseal which includes waxoyl.

Here are some pictures. The work is all hidden so excuse that my effort isn’t a Picasso

My next step will be to clear wax coat the underside of the car with something like Bilt Hamber S50, or perhaps Lanoguard.


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Great thread mate. Read this a few times as there is some useful info in here.

I am spending this weekend tackling rust like this. It wasn't planned though. I replaced the front control arms a few weeks ago and wasn't happy with the rust on the DRC lines, so put some protection on those while I was there - well, the parts I could get to. This weekend I thought I'd better check the rears - same state. Whilst sorting those out I removed the plastic cover just in front of the rear wheels which revealed quite a bit of rust. On mine, the small exposed part of the outer sill next to the jacking points was also pretty bad. It had paint on it, but when poked, most of the paint fell off. I had to partially remove the sill covers to get to the rust. Will be going out there again today to paint it.

I last did this on an old Fiat 127 in the 90's. Wasn't expecting to have to do it to a 'modern' Audi! The state of the rear sub-frame is annoying me now, so I can see me dropping that at some stage.

Rich.

[JamesBaby]

Thanks Rich.

I understand what you mean about rust. My Daytona had spent it's initial life near the sea and up in Scotland and it's underbody wasn't the best. I assumed all RS4's were like that but when I got my Phantom Black one it has hardly any rust underneath. I was really happy about it. It's not been near the sea in it's life and probably garaged.

Give yours some TLC and it'll be fine again. Also sprays like Lanoguard or Bilt Hamber 80 are worth looking at. I'll be trying one at some point.

[JamesBaby]

RS4 B7 Drain Holes

On the B7 A4 cars there are drain holes under the scuttle panel. These need to be free of debris otherwise you will get electrical damage or water ingress.

As winter is approaching I thought it’d be good to check and clean them.

Under the bonnet toward the back of the engine is a long rubber seal. This is easily popped off. Then remove the scuttle panel (big plastic piece over the brake fluid container) by pulling towards you.

You now have access to the drains. Look carefully to see if there is any water or dirt in there.

There are 2 drain holes and each have a rubber grommet on them. On our RHD cars there is one beneath the right hand side ECU when looking at the engine. The second is under the brake booster on the left side.

Here is a picture of the right hand drain hole with the grommet removed:



I cleaned all the mud out. I also removed the grommet to clean but you don’t normally have to if it’s clear. Do not drop it down the hole like I did. Took my wife’s slender arms to get it back out.

The grommet all clean:



Here it is cleaned and reinstalled:



The one on the drivers side is hard to access. You can just about see it. I suggest a long pipe cleaner to gently prod the hole to ensure it’s clear.

All ready for inclement weather.


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[coffey555]

I remember your grey one, good to see you back in a B7!

New one looks lovely.

The seals on the ECU covers tend to fail with time so probably worth checking for signs of water ingress and replacing as required.