Removing the Gearbox from the Engine

[ATinOf]

Another chapter (3) of the epic saga - This covers removing the gearbox from the engine

Chapter 1 - Engine / gearbox removal covered here: viewtopic.php?f=47&t=129282
Chapter 2 - Making a gearbox stand covered here: viewtopic.php?f=47&t=129271

The first task is to remove the cover over the Lamda sensor connectors off side of the gearbox


This gives you access to the connectors, the cabling is tied but easily released with cutters

[ATinOf]

I used a paint pen to identify the Lamda sensors and connector plugs, using a simple 1,2,3,4 system - note this bears no relationship to the Vagcom numbering but is effective in ensuring you get them reconnected correctly !!


Having unplugged them I then realised you need to number the connector sockets as well, doh!


Cut the ties for the opposing side sensors, and number those too


Dont forget where this knock on tie wrap clamp is fitted (on the flanged edge)


And coil the sensor cabling up out the way

[ATinOf]

Now we can remove the plastic connector bracket


And remove the off side exhaust from the turbo, its quite easy to access the 4 extended nuts and sprung clamp securing screw this side


However when you get to the near side the 3 extended nuts are relatively easy to get to but the last nut securing the exhaust to the Turbo is very tricky access


I dont recommend doing what I tried; using a 1/4 inch drive sockets to get to it; Casualties were a snapped UJ socket and an extension bar. Gearbox 2, me nil.


Persevere with the right tools and you will get there

[ATinOf]

If you didnt remove the drive shafts earlier under the car, remove them now, starting with the off side the cover comes off to improve access


Here we can see a small puddle of oil; one of the leaks I intend to fix; I believe this one is a failed O-ring (or badly fitted or reused O-ring as we see later) on that front diff
Notice how I stuffed a shopping bag into that turbo outlet? I dont want anything dropping in there...


Now chock the drive shaft with a crow bar if necessary to remove the shaft bolts (internal spline bit here)


Probably not necessary if the shafts are different lengths, but I dont know if thats the case so out with the paint pen again and mark it (I love paint pens!)

[ATinOf]

Near side drive shaft is the same process, start by removing the cover


Which we see is a 2 part cover in this case

And we can remove this drive shaft (and mark it if you like)

[ATinOf]

Now we can disconnect the gearbox from the transmission ECU at this connector which is a twist to release connector; the book says be wary of static when handling this connector


And disconnect the coolant hoses from the differential oil cooler and transmission oil coolers under the transmission




And we can turn our attention to the 4 lower bolts securing the transmission to the engine casing

[ATinOf]

Look closely there is a grommet covering the access hole to get to the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate


Not the best image but I used a mirror at dismantle to check if the crank rotation angle had aligned a bolt to the access hole; there are 3 sets of 2 bolts, 6 in all. I recommend an endescope for easier viewing of this which is what I used at reassemble


For rotating the crank there is of course a special tool you can buy, or as in my case you can just force a bolt into the front of the crank and use that to rotate. Just ensure you always rotate clockwise, and its recommended to remove the remove the plugs so you are not cranking against cylinder pressure (which is possible, just harder to do!)

[ATinOf]

Now suitably support the gearbox and remove the top bolts securing it to the engine, but be warned, if you miss one like me here, you will be wondering why it wont release for a few minutes....


Now we can split the gearbox from the engine


You can see here we have no problems with the crank end seal (no evidence of oil whatsoever) and we can see the 3 pairs of bolt holes in the flex plate. Its wise to leave the engine at this rotation to save you time at reassembly (its already at the first bolt)


Its about now I realise this is not the first time this gearbox has been addressed, there is evidence this torque converter has been off before (thats not me and my paint pen there, its a permanent marker). So I start to wonder given the low mileage if the last person who looked at this did a quick fix and run job. This affects how closely I will be looking at the box at tear down.


Stay tuned for the tear down itself to follow, Chapter 4 when I get round to it

[Stiggles]

Given RS6 and V10 tfsi are written there I wonder if the 13022 equates to the mileage when removed?? I doubt anyone would wish to disclose wrecking a tiptronic within 13k miles

[ATinOf]

I reckon its either a stock code number or it was second hand and its the mileage on the car it was taken off, ie it replaced the original,in which case it could have been fitted at any point up to the 48K or so I got the car at. Equally you wouldnt be a happy bunny if it was your written off RS at 13K this one came out of if that were the case. Personally I would never fit a second hand torque converter. Its a bit academic now as this TC was sent off to JPAT for refurb anyway and never came back.

I got a call when it landed for refurb to say it was way off balance (they checked it before stripping it down), which they put down to the offset front plate on it (bent I presumed). I never had any vibration issues with the TC, or any issues for that matter, the only reason I sent it was to renew its 2 frictions and ensure the internal dynamic components and bearings were sound as part of my GB rebuild. And to get a status report on its internal condition to aid my diagnostic. I thought given the expense I was going to anyway it was a sound investment to do so. After some discussion they were not prepared to take it on since they weren't confident in rebalancing it on completion.

I had a sneaky feeling it was damaged in transit although they never owned up to it (it was their courier who collected it) and I ''thought'' Id boxed it up well enough (you know how these couriers throw things around). They did get me a replacement from ZF ''virtually at cost'' in their words, which turned out at very nearly their refurb price so apart from the 5 week wait from ZF, I was happy overall with the service. I'd swear the replacement was brand new too.

[Stiggles]

That's a good enough result then as now you know the TQ will be of top quality, I wouldn't like a 13k mile RS to be written off or have serious gearbox issues, but then there are eBay classifieds of 300 mile C63s etc so obviously plenty of people with money and no brains or talent for performance cars.

Currently sitting at 156k miles on my RS6 and it's only just had the engine dropped for oil seal and coolant pipes, so the driveline must be of high build quality