Do you need upgraded brakes for a Stage2 ?

[Nosillad]

Well I have spent the Christmas break productively and test drove almost all the competition, but I just can’t find anything that ticks as many boxes as the RS6.

So I have decided to keep the RS and take it to stage 2 with MRC (inc filters and secondary cat delete). Car is booked in for March so that I have a couple of months to sort everything else out.

I have bought some H&R ARB’s (bargain at £130) and the car is booked in to have these fitted along with an inspection and service before taking the car down to MRC.

The big outstanding question is on the standard brake set up, for those who have done stage 2, how many of you are still using a standard set up and does it cope fine? Or is the consensus to upgrade the brakes at the same time? If so I would go the AP route with Ferodo pads but this obviously this doubles the cost of the stage 2

[don0301]

I "upgraded" standard with stainless lines, upgraded brake fluid and DS2500 pads and i drill and clean out my disks annually.

The best "upgrade" I did was the "Pheaton" mod, costs about £100 for parts. Made big difference with fade and bite.

I find the present set up perfectly fine but tbh if/when I get to the point the disks have worn out I would probably seriously look at getting an AP or similar BBK.

[pete2144]

I would say yes, you only need AP 410 disc and just space the original calliper out that’s what I’ve done not much room to play with but works well


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[pete2144]

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[IanH755]

I went with the 390mm AP's, DS2500's and ATE Superblue Fluid (OEM rear setup) when I was at Stage 2 and had no issues, even on the track.

The poor OEM performance is a combination of the disc's poor internal design pattern as well as the cars lack of ability to supply cooling air to the disc. That combination is the biggest problem, so things like the Phaeton cooling mod (directs additional cooling air to the disc) help massive if you want to keep the OEM discs (and reduce the cost) but I'd still consider better pads/fluid because if you really start to push the cars new 700hp+ performance the brakes will probably get hotter than the OEM pad/fluid setup is designed for and therefore start to fade sooner.

[pcorpe]

Slight hijack of the thread, but as I'm contemplating similar upgrade etc, do the new pads mentioned above continue to provide the brake pad wear warning light function?

[don0301]

DS2500 don't. they are a race pad.

[Nosillad]

As always thanks for the feedback, i have been reading about the Phaeton Mod and have the part numbers but do these fit directly onto the same holes at the standard plate or do you need to mod as per Skiwi's post https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel60.shtml as i am struggling to work out what version of RS6 this is done on)

[Nosillad]

I went with the 390mm AP's, DS2500's and ATE Superblue Fluid (OEM rear setup) when I was at Stage 2 and had no issues, even on the track.

Thanks Ian, I presume the 390mm can use the stock calliper without the spacer mod that the 410 requires?

[Jim Haseltine]

The Phaeton plate is a direct bolt-on to the C6. Talking of which, I'm looking for a set of used C6 plates - if anybody who has done the Phaeton mod has a set they want rid of I'd be interested.

[don0301]

The Phaeton plate is a direct bolt-on to the C6.

+1

It's really as if they were designed for it, lines up perfectly with cooling holes. You need to buy the bolts too, in case you weren't aware.There's a diagram and part no's on the relevant thread if I recall correctly.

[don0301]

As always thanks for the feedback, i have been reading about the Phaeton Mod and have the part numbers but do these fit directly onto the same holes at the standard plate or do you need to mod as per Skiwi's post https://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel60.shtml as i am struggling to work out what version of RS6 this is done on)

That mod is for the RS6 C5. Straight bolt on for the RS6 C6.

[Nosillad]

excellent thanks for the responses, ill get them ordered

Jim I have a wobbly one on the back so I will be swapping mine around I am afraid or you could have had mine

[IanH755]

I went with the 390mm AP's, DS2500's and ATE Superblue Fluid (OEM rear setup) when I was at Stage 2 and had no issues, even on the track.

Thanks Ian, I presume the 390mm can use the stock calliper without the spacer mod that the 410 requires?

Yeap stock caliper with no spacers as it's a direct replacement for the OEM disc.

As the AP disc is a two piece disc (Bell and Rotor) you have to bolt the two together to make a complete disc. There's instructions with the disc, tools are a simple Torx Socket (I think E12 or E10 size - Halfords stock them) and a torque wretch that does 6nm (not a lot), the job only takes minutes per disc it's dead easy.

*edit* swapped "Star Drive" for" Torx Socket" for clarity.

[douglas96]

I went with the 390mm AP's, DS2500's and ATE Superblue Fluid (OEM rear setup) when I was at Stage 2 and had no issues, even on the track.

Thanks Ian, I presume the 390mm can use the stock calliper without the spacer mod that the 410 requires?

Yeap stock caliper with no spacers as it's a direct replacement for the OEM disc.

As the AP disc is a two piece disc (Bell and Rotor) you have to bolt the two together to make a complete disc. There's instructions with the disc, tools are a simple Star Drive (I think E12 or E10 size - Halfords stock them) and a torque wretch that does 6nm (not a lot), the job only takes minutes per disc it's dead easy.

Hi Ian,
I remember reading ages ago somewhere on the forum that External Torx sockets were required to be able to change the discs and pads. I assume now that I was reading the process for fitting the AP discs to the car. Do you remember if any of the bolts on the brake calipers and retaining pins, etc. had External Torx heads? I'm just asking as my car will be needing the brakes changed in the spring and I don't have any E-Torx sockets as they're not something I've come across on any VAG cars so far. I tried searching the forum but couldn't find any info on that.

Thanks