New to RS4 - I want one

[R54]

The B7 avant RS4 is growing on me rapidly, but all the examples on sale have covered quite a few miles. Is this something I should be seriously considering with the B7? Ultimately the price for a 40-60K milleage is around £10-15K+ more than one that has covered 100K miles - quite a difference in price (and miles)! But if there isn't something significant to worry about with a 100K milleage car vs 60K milleage then I'll consider ones that have covered more miles. I'm interested in just a weekend car, I currently have a MK6 VW GTD - I hardly drive the thing.
My father has a B7 avant, and had his exhausts done from JC Weldfab, I'll probably do the same if i get one. I saw Faisal's Video on YouTube, and recall the experience sitting in dads car remembering the big smile it put on my face!

[GT-steve]

I just looked at 2 in the last week with 78 and 79k miles on them. Walked away within 10 minutes on both of them as they were knackered out or required many thousands spending on top of the asking price..

In the end I found one with over 100k, but impeccable service and maintenance record, 2owners, most recent being an enthusiast that's owned for almost 7yrs.

My advice - buy from the right kind or seller with the knowledge, enthusiasm and money to have looked after it properly and you should be fine.

[jonytek]

There are a number of things to look out for with any of these cars and high miles does NOT mean less well maintained, worn or tired. There are lots of threads on here talking about what to look for and what you would hope to have been done.

Like everyone else will tell you, it's better to get a well maintained high mileage enthusiast example rather than a low mileage car that's been driven by a Granny who hasn't had any major work done when it's needed it..

Best bet is to keep an eye on the for sale section and get a members car that's done things right not someone who's done the bare minimum to get through their MOT.

I've been in Faisal's car when I was thinking of getting a JCWF, it was too much for me... Precats and res delete FTW..

[chriswhite1992]

Shame your after an avant as id been willing to look at a deal with your gtd

[Davidol]

Personally for me higher mileage is better with these as you'll be looking at some monster bills around 90k with brake discs and potentially a clutch. Bought mine on 120k with silly amount of history and all the big jobs done.

[Stevie1982]

I'd get the best car based on condition and history. If it was slightly higher miles then so be it. Depends on how long you aim to keep it for. For me I generally keep them for 6 to 12 months so wanted something I felt would hold its price.

[irn_bru_ce]

Really depends on how long you intend to keep the RS4 and what sort of annual milage your intending to put on it

Sometimes the higher miles cars are better, as the weak spots have already been sorted out. Clutches go between 60-80k roughly, so you could be factoring in £1.5K if it still has the original, also DRC, it doesnt last forever, if the car has been driven as intended, it's likely to have leaked and been replaced with coilovers, if the car has been nursed along, it might be higher miles and still have DRC, so factor in a set of coilovers

Same with brakes, if they are going to need doing soon, thats another £1.5k, and a set of tyres is £750

The engines appear to be bombproof as long as the oil has been changed, although vacuum leaks are common on older cars, cheaply fixed though.

Irrespective of milage, I would stay clear of cars with no papertrail, essential to have a folder of bills to know whats been done

[samuk]

I saw near 12 rs4's (mileage between 70k and 90k) ...in the space of a month! Boy were they knackered...resprays, most lacking power..over all condition...did eventually find one 500miles away..with 75k on the clock..and think 6 owners..and no have to say was allot better then the lower owner cars...it also came with a folder of invoices.


Tyres were a personal preference for me ..I had pilot sport 4s fitted for £780...and have to say tyres are just awesome!

[Rodney007]

Paper trail of the work done,
Good hard smooth pull from low rpm until redline,
No flat spots in the rpm range,
S mode works,
Pop the oil cap, clean color alloy inside engimeans regular services,
Smooth gear changes,
No clicking on full steering rotation
Feel the discs, check for a lip from wear

If pass all above, doesnt really matter about mileage if shes a keeper

[R54]

Thanks all, this has been really useful and helpful for me - much appreciated. I do plan to keep, look after - and will probably do no more than 4000 miles per year. I haven't driven this car before, but I guess as I go to view potential cars I'll get a feel for differences. I didn't know there was a sales section in this forum TY.

[jonytek]

Have you seen this - viewtopic.php?t=90255

[asifg]

Paper trail of the work done,
Good hard smooth pull from low rpm until redline,
No flat spots in the rpm range,
S mode works,
Pop the oil cap, clean color alloy inside engimeans regular services,
Smooth gear changes,
No clicking on full steering rotation
Feel the discs, check for a lip from wear

If pass all above, doesnt really matter about mileage if shes a keeper

This is spot-on.

I've got mine for sale with a pile of paperwork to support the full Audi history as well as MRC carbon clean, Michelin PSS tyres, recent brakes etc etc and it has never had any MOT failures or advisories and I'm the second owner and it has 65k miles. However, it surprises me that people spend less money on an inferior car which is going to end up costing more in the long run - I'd rather buy from an enthusiast who has cherished the car instead of saving a couple of grand and buying cheap.

[R54]

I completely agree with you. In there lies the very problem. What might seem a superior car (low mile, clean body, and potentially more money) could turn out to be a complete disaster because it hasn't had the TLC needed to keep it's insides clean.

A high mileage car (most cases so far) costs less than one that's done low mileage - from what I've gauged/learned that doesn't mean the high miles has been abused, it also doesn't mean a low mileage car hasn't been abused, especially with this type of car. The info here is indispensable. Personally, I'm not trying to save a few £, it's just good that I don't necessarily rule out an example that has done high miles

I did read the buying guide, I'm trying to dig more on the car components such that I become intimate with common problems like suspension/oil cooling/vacuum system/clutch/lumpy-idle ECU and non performance related e.g. leg-room, boot space - the car in general.

[Harris.]

Mine not given me any problems in 2 1/2 years . Now on 113000.

Drives like a 40,000 mile car and looking through the history the pain in the arse / nasty bits were done in the 90's

[BenHol]

Paper trail of the work done,
Good hard smooth pull from low rpm until redline,
No flat spots in the rpm range,
S mode works,
Pop the oil cap, clean color alloy inside engimeans regular services,
Smooth gear changes,
No clicking on full steering rotation
Feel the discs, check for a lip from wear

If pass all above, doesnt really matter about mileage if shes a keeper

I noticed the "no clicking on full steering lock rotation" comment to check.
Are you just referring to worn cv joints or is there another more specific rs4 fault there?


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