New battery coding

[R33]

Where's your neck of the woods (and thanks)

[classba]

Pls check your Pm

[Golfather]

In theory you can change the battery without coding by connecting to a power source whilst doing the swap, but only if the old one hasn't completely gone flat.
However last time I did that I kept getting error codes for Quiescent current stage 1 & 2, so had to code from scratch.

[R33]

Which is basically what I did other than I don't seem to have thrown any codes on the VDU or from a scan afterwards. Either way I'll get it coded in next week.

[Doug_S2]

if you replace with same battery type and have power off for more than a 30 seconds you wont need to recode as it resets adaptation - its only if you use a different oe audi battery.

[classba]

if you replace with same battery type and have power off for more than a 30 seconds you wont need to recode as it resets adaptation - its only if you use a different oe audi battery.

Doug, I replaced mine with a genuine OEM one and I still coded it. Guess there's no harm in doing so.

[Doug_S2]

I agree

[R33]

Hmmm, either way for me sounds like I'll just leave this to Doug to kindly sort out for me next week if indeed it needs sorting

[GC1978]

This may explain why my power lift gate does not work unless the engine is running?
I replaced the old S4 battery with a new one in December. Since then the power lift works ok but only when engine running...

Also how do you see the battery status on the info screen? Always wondered that?!

Anyone suggest a good place to acquire Vag Com? Its probably time I invest in it!

[GC1978]

So, after some digging (on 2009 car) this is the fault (earlier cars use 61)

Address 19: CAN Gateway
1 Fault Found:
03041 - Energy Management Active

I think once this is active you will start to see the problems everyone describes even if you change to a brand new battery.
This fault is currently active on my car - the battery was changed in August IIRC...

My next problem is coding it. Not 100% sure whats best as its a non OEM battery.

[leet]

Need a bit of advice here. I've just changed my battery as it was becoming lazy at starting and battery display was more often than not below 50%. I bought a new one from TPS, a Yuasa YBX5020. Fitted it to my car and changed the serial number by 1 digit as mentioned by Golfather. The screen shot below shows what came up. I selected NO and then clicked "do it" Coding accepted. MMI was showing 100% so thought job done. Went for a drive and lost all power and would not restart. MMI still showing 100%. Got a lift home and refitted old battery, put original code back in and all is fine again. Should I have selected Yes in the screen shot to go back to default? There is no Yuasa on the brand drop down menu

[Golfather]

What are the current values of the module?

[leet]

What are the current values of the module?

Thanks for the reply. I've sorted it now after breaking down again. The coding was Ok. Doug reckoned on it being a fuse blown. I found the 30A fused strip link within the positive battery terminal to be blown. It was still intermittently making contact which gave me all this grief. Bodged a 30a blade fuse across it for now and picking up a new link tomorrow from Audi. Do you happen to know what this 30A supply feeds? I'm thinking fuel pumps

[GAZ-MAN]

I came out the petrol station tonight and went to press start button the steering lock clicked then nothing happened just a few faint lights on the speedo and rev counter, I did notice the car has been slow starting over last month or so so I take it that the battery is now gone? We jump started it and it went again but I got home and turned the car off and it's no letting me do anything again can't even lock it or any interior lights and still have the wee faint lights on the rev counter and speedo, thanks in advance

[IanH755]

Sounds like a dead battery to me as I've had the same symptoms on other cars.