Looking at an avant with h&r

[Matt_P]

No offence but how much research have you done about the C5's?

The gearbox issue would have been one of the first things you saw once you'd started searching.

Do you have a large slush fund to accommodate any repairs that may sneak up on you? Such as EGT's, intercoolers, DV's, Coilpacks blah blah blah?? This is really important as if you don't, you could potentially face some large bills.

I don't want to put you off but you really need to go in with your eyes wide open.

A fair question!

I've spent a lot of time reading on here and hovering up info everywhere I can. I'm aware that I need to buy the best I can afford and even then its going to cost me! There is a fund but im keen to make it as painless as poss!

I've been focussing on making sure potential buys have FSH, cambelt, coilovers, recent disc/pads, Gearbox maintenance, + a history of intercooler maintenance.

I'm well aware that the g/box is fragile but figured gearbox service/maintenance would be enough? - what im asking is if I put 10k over three years on that car what are my chances of the gearbox going bang?

Also what are: EGT + DVs?

[Matt_P]

Matt - Yeap the gearboxes really are that fragile! They weren't designed to cope with the ridiculous torque the RS6 has (a fact known by Audi), especially after a remap, and I'd say the vast majority of cars will have had theirs replaced by 100,000 miles. Replacement costs start at £3500 for the bare minimum refurb box to £7000 for a new box and can go much, Much higher very quickly as there's a whole bunch of jobs which are worth doing while the engine is out (another £1000-£2000).

Re: Slush Fund - Again, I would say that the size of your slush fund should be 50-100% or the price of the car. You'd hope that you'll never need that much but even simple jobs are usually a minimum of £1000 and big jobs (blown turbos or gearbox) will be almost the price of the car in that eBay ad! Be very careful and read the buyers guide at the top of this forum and be aware that this car still has the maintenance costs of it's £70k+ buying price!

I'll have another read!

Basically always wanted one and finally in a position wear my mileage is low enough that I 'think' I can afford to run one. Planning to run it for couple of years covering maybe 6k miles and then get out with minimum damage! (that's the plan anyway!)

Surely this must be poss?

[IanH755]

EGT - Exhaust Gas Temperature sensors which live in the exhaust.
DV's - Dump Valves, the RS has 2 which are diaphragm operated (also know as 710p or 710n due to the part number) and the diaphragm eventually starts to leak.

The gearbox is an unknown sadly! A hard driven one can last 100,00 miles and easily driven once can go pop before 60,000. It's a complete lottery but rest assured at some point it will go pop. However, once it's replaced it *should* last you the life of the car, although in very rare occasions cars have had 3 or more boxes!

As for you're plan, lots of people who post similar requests on the forum have had the same idea, some have been stung badly and some have been lucky so you take your chances really. I'd say go for it but keep in mind the bank balance destruction that can occur "when" something happens (not if ).

Good Luck with your hunt!

[Matt_P]

I'd say go for it but keep in mind the bank balance destruction that can occur "when" something happens (not if ).

Good Luck with your hunt!

love it!

I was planning on buying a forum car in the hope this would increase my chances! Also im guessing cars which have been looked after by MRC or Unit20 would be a bonus

[Shoppinit]

As long as it's possible to raise it then I don't mind it being a bit firmer.

No, the H&R sag at the rear. You can't raise them enough (IMO).

And they are bone shakers.

Other than that they are great.

[bam_bam]

As long as it's possible to raise it then I don't mind it being a bit firmer.

No, the H&R sag at the rear. You can't raise them enough (IMO).

And they are bone shakers.

Other than that they are great.

So, to recap.

• - Sag in the rear
  - Cannot be raised high enough
  - Bone shakers

Other than those things, they're perfect.

Love it.

[Weiß-sechs]

I've been running on H&R's for over twelve months now and yes, my bones do get occasionally shaken on poor surfaces but I've had worse...

Good body control for a two tonne barge, great value and infinitely better than the "waterbed" ride of a knackered DRC set up.

And if you find you've got a saggy rear then, in true Golfather style, slam the front end to suit

[longman h]

Are those 19" Sportecs by any chance?

[dubbed_up_daz]

My H+R's are fine, sit level although getting the rear up the last inch was heavy going as you are compressing the spring. I dont think they are overtly uncomfortable but many differ depending on the cushion theyre sitting on.

[Weiß-sechs]

Are those 19" Sportecs by any chance?

No mate, but not the first time the question's been asked. They're Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.3's; got them at a good price (a lot less than Sportec!) and they're a very useful 2.2 kg lighter each, winner

[bam_bam]

Are those 19" Sportecs by any chance?

No mate, but not the first time the question's been asked. They're Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.3's; got them at a good price (a lot less than Sportec!) and they're a very useful 2.2 kg lighter each, winner

Are they 18s? What's the spec, son? I love the TDs but I didn't think they'd fit the '6 in a decent size.

[Weiß-sechs]

They is 8.5x19's...struggled to get a decent price/lead time on ET30 offset so got the deal done with the popular ET45's (fit anything TT's, etc. etc.) and fitted with 15mm spacers to get them to clear calipers etc. Have the summer GY F1's on 'em, no wear issues, quality stuff for the money

[mik15]

as others have pointed, make sure you check it properly before buying it. Drive it hard when you do the test-drive, see how it feels, then do a full Vagcom scan and see what/if errors come up. I'd say that the gearbox itself is pretty strong, is the TC that drags it down once it bites the dust, being on the original box might mean that it hasn't really been driven that hard if it lasted for so long, even if at some point would've been replaced and then driven aggressive all the time you'd still be at risk, lower perhaps but still... either way is good to be prepared and take this into consideration when buying it.

As for EGT, O2 and other bits can be replaced without dropping the engine by a smart mechanic(that usually means no dealership), in fact here(http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31390 ... (old-news) )is a DIY for EGT's, looks like they can be repaired, i will try it myself as i have an intermittent error on one of them, even though they were replaced a while ago.

Good luck!