This job is straighforward, not much space so my hands are shredded but quite straightforward and saved me a small fortune and the lead time on the repair...!
Drive belt tensioner pulley "fell" off....
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tartan_rob
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Drive belt tensioner pulley "fell" off....
How much do Audi charge for changing the drive belt and tensioner? I've just replaced the drive belt and tensioner in about 3.5 hours and that included flushing through my intercoolers and replacing jubilee clips around turbo hoses......
This job is straighforward, not much space so my hands are shredded but quite straightforward and saved me a small fortune and the lead time on the repair...!
This job is straighforward, not much space so my hands are shredded but quite straightforward and saved me a small fortune and the lead time on the repair...!
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gavsteryoung
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Changing the water pump is a whole new ball game to changing the auxilliary drive belt tensioner!
On a previous post I have recommended changing cambelt, waterpump and anything else which rotates (belt tensioners), all at the same time. It's no mean feat and hugely sensible to do everything at the same time whilst you are at it.
I did mine at 72k, water pump was noisy and just starting to leak, tensioners were on their way and belt looked ropey. Took me all afternoon to strip and then two nights to put back together including welding up an alignment bar to lock the cam sprockets in position (also highly recommended)
It's certainally not a job for an inexperienced home mechanic and don't forget to buy some G12 anti-freeze for refilling afterwards.
There is also an issue with Audi water pumps where the nylon impeller falls off resulting in (difficult to diagnose) overheating.
Pumps supplied now have been modified.
On a previous post I have recommended changing cambelt, waterpump and anything else which rotates (belt tensioners), all at the same time. It's no mean feat and hugely sensible to do everything at the same time whilst you are at it.
I did mine at 72k, water pump was noisy and just starting to leak, tensioners were on their way and belt looked ropey. Took me all afternoon to strip and then two nights to put back together including welding up an alignment bar to lock the cam sprockets in position (also highly recommended)
It's certainally not a job for an inexperienced home mechanic and don't forget to buy some G12 anti-freeze for refilling afterwards.
There is also an issue with Audi water pumps where the nylon impeller falls off resulting in (difficult to diagnose) overheating.
Pumps supplied now have been modified.
Why did you have to weld up an alignment bar?UKS4APR1 wrote:. Took me all afternoon to strip and then two nights to put back together including welding up an alignment bar to lock the cam sprockets in position (also highly recommended)
It's certainally not a job for an inexperienced home mechanic and don't forget to buy some G12 anti-freeze for refilling afterwards.
The alignment bar holds/locks the sprockets in position whilst you fit the new belt.
Because of the position of the cams with some valves partially open, they (the cams) want to flick round and so lose their position (timing). I assure you that if you don't lock them into position they will spring round, especially the RH cam making it very difficult to fit the new belt correctly.
The bar is quite simple to make [assuming you have a welder] just get a straight length of sturdy/rigid bar or box section and weld on 4 bolts to line up with the two pairs of holes provided in the cam sprockets. You do this before you remove the old belt to ensure a perfect alignment.
Getting the new belt on is pretty tricky, always seems like it's a touch too short! [even though it's got the same number of teeth as the old one!].
The belt tensioner is sprung and oil damped so at least there's no problem setting up the correct tension.
Because of the position of the cams with some valves partially open, they (the cams) want to flick round and so lose their position (timing). I assure you that if you don't lock them into position they will spring round, especially the RH cam making it very difficult to fit the new belt correctly.
The bar is quite simple to make [assuming you have a welder] just get a straight length of sturdy/rigid bar or box section and weld on 4 bolts to line up with the two pairs of holes provided in the cam sprockets. You do this before you remove the old belt to ensure a perfect alignment.
Getting the new belt on is pretty tricky, always seems like it's a touch too short! [even though it's got the same number of teeth as the old one!].
The belt tensioner is sprung and oil damped so at least there's no problem setting up the correct tension.
Re: Drive belt tensioner pulley "fell" off....
Can you explain a bit further please ??Tartan_Rob wrote:and that included flushing through my intercoolers
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tartan_rob
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