As some of you know I have not been happy since having AP's 6 pot calipers fitted.
I was expecting a breakthrough in time for this weekend but AP have let me down.
They have however sent another set of replacement discs but not bells free of charge although I feel that after two previous sets of discs have been changed with "no faults found" i cannot see that changing them again is going to help.
So I have decided to try a new set of pads for this weekend
options are
Ferodo DS2500 (fitted at moment)
Ferodo DS3000
EBC1 Green
PFC93
What if any is the difference between the above?
Any comments appreciated
I will buy one set anyway to try which do you prefer?
kc
Brakes Help please
DS2500.....excellent all round pad for the road
DS3000......bit of a track day pad , might not work so well on the road which should suit
EBC Green....used to be cheap and cheerful but they have recently changed hands and there are new compounds being made which I have no experience of. This is not their trackday pad.
Out of your list the 2500 is my favourite but I prefer Pagid pads these days.....you might want to investigate a set of Pagid Blues for everyday or Pagid RS14 Grey look good for trackdays. Have a look here at the list http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/frame- ... -discs.htm
The most important thing with Pads and/or Discs is bedding in.....make sure you do it correctly or you'll simple wreck the pads and/or discs....from APs web site
ROAD CAR DISC BRAKE BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
Bedding the disc from new or stress relieving the cast iron disc after it has been clamped to the mounting bell is of paramount importance if premature warping is to be avoided after the brakes are used to their full potential.
AP Racing discs are produced from the same castings as our normal race discs, but when used in the controlled area of motor sport it is easy to instruct a driver to gradually bring the disc up to working temperature with some moderate braking over a small amount of measured laps, progressively increasing his braking effort until an Engineer assess the disc visually or by temperature readings.
For road car installations the process needs to be as follows:-
For the first 10 miles, light braking from 50/60 mph down to 30 mph if possible in blocks of 5. Do not attempt any high-speed stops down to zero at this point, as only the faces will heat up with the mass remaining cool along with the mounting area. For the next 100 miles increase the braking pressures similar to stopping in traffic, again avoiding if possible full stops from above 70 mph. By now the area around the mounting bolts should be a light blue temper colour. This is a good indication that the correct heat soak has been achieved. For the next 100 miles gradually increase the braking effort after this full power stops can be used. The disc should now be an even dark to light blue temper colour, depending on the pad type and the braking effort being used during the process. This process must be completed before any race circuit use.
If used at a Track day the following points must be adhered to so as not to warp the disc.
At the start of a session use a minimum of one warming up lap for the brakes i.e. gradually increase the effort at each corner and do not drag the brakes under power as in left foot braking.
Use at least one cooling down lap at the end of the session and if possible stay off the brakes.
Do not leave your foot on the brake when parked in the paddock after a track session. If you do, the hot spot created by the pad can distort the disc in that localized area causing a high spot, resulting in vibration under braking.
On the majority of car installations, race circuit use can be more exacting on the brake system than a fully prepared race car due to the following:-
None or minimal cooling, increased chassis weight, longer braking distances due to driving technique or tyre grip.
Therefore it is very important to check your brake system thoroughly after such use. Bear in mind race cars on average cover less than 50 laps of a circuit before being serviced.
PLEASE BE AWARE THAT DISCS USED ON RACE TRACKS WILL BE SUBJECT TO HIGHER TEMPERATURES AND WEAR RATES THAN ACHIEVED WITH NORMAL ROAD USE. THIS CAN HAVE AN EFFECT ON THE LIFE OF THE DISC, ESPECIALLY IF HIGH TORQUE COMPETITION PADS ARE USED TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL FAST ROAD TYPES SUPPLIED WITH THE KIT.
DISCS ALONG WITH PADS ARE CONSUMABLE ITEMS.
DS3000......bit of a track day pad , might not work so well on the road which should suit
EBC Green....used to be cheap and cheerful but they have recently changed hands and there are new compounds being made which I have no experience of. This is not their trackday pad.
Out of your list the 2500 is my favourite but I prefer Pagid pads these days.....you might want to investigate a set of Pagid Blues for everyday or Pagid RS14 Grey look good for trackdays. Have a look here at the list http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/frame- ... -discs.htm
The most important thing with Pads and/or Discs is bedding in.....make sure you do it correctly or you'll simple wreck the pads and/or discs....from APs web site
ROAD CAR DISC BRAKE BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
Bedding the disc from new or stress relieving the cast iron disc after it has been clamped to the mounting bell is of paramount importance if premature warping is to be avoided after the brakes are used to their full potential.
AP Racing discs are produced from the same castings as our normal race discs, but when used in the controlled area of motor sport it is easy to instruct a driver to gradually bring the disc up to working temperature with some moderate braking over a small amount of measured laps, progressively increasing his braking effort until an Engineer assess the disc visually or by temperature readings.
For road car installations the process needs to be as follows:-
For the first 10 miles, light braking from 50/60 mph down to 30 mph if possible in blocks of 5. Do not attempt any high-speed stops down to zero at this point, as only the faces will heat up with the mass remaining cool along with the mounting area. For the next 100 miles increase the braking pressures similar to stopping in traffic, again avoiding if possible full stops from above 70 mph. By now the area around the mounting bolts should be a light blue temper colour. This is a good indication that the correct heat soak has been achieved. For the next 100 miles gradually increase the braking effort after this full power stops can be used. The disc should now be an even dark to light blue temper colour, depending on the pad type and the braking effort being used during the process. This process must be completed before any race circuit use.
If used at a Track day the following points must be adhered to so as not to warp the disc.
At the start of a session use a minimum of one warming up lap for the brakes i.e. gradually increase the effort at each corner and do not drag the brakes under power as in left foot braking.
Use at least one cooling down lap at the end of the session and if possible stay off the brakes.
Do not leave your foot on the brake when parked in the paddock after a track session. If you do, the hot spot created by the pad can distort the disc in that localized area causing a high spot, resulting in vibration under braking.
On the majority of car installations, race circuit use can be more exacting on the brake system than a fully prepared race car due to the following:-
None or minimal cooling, increased chassis weight, longer braking distances due to driving technique or tyre grip.
Therefore it is very important to check your brake system thoroughly after such use. Bear in mind race cars on average cover less than 50 laps of a circuit before being serviced.
PLEASE BE AWARE THAT DISCS USED ON RACE TRACKS WILL BE SUBJECT TO HIGHER TEMPERATURES AND WEAR RATES THAN ACHIEVED WITH NORMAL ROAD USE. THIS CAN HAVE AN EFFECT ON THE LIFE OF THE DISC, ESPECIALLY IF HIGH TORQUE COMPETITION PADS ARE USED TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL FAST ROAD TYPES SUPPLIED WITH THE KIT.
DISCS ALONG WITH PADS ARE CONSUMABLE ITEMS.
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TarmacTerrorist
- 5th Gear
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probably doesn't help ken but is interesting reading anyway -
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/war ... s_myth.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/war ... s_myth.htm
Too much is bad.
Plenty is better.
Plenty is better.
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