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4.2 V8 32v Naturally Aspirated - 414 bhp
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steve_70
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Post by steve_70 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 12:20 am

Agreed. However, the idea is surface cleansing and correction as you say, then protecting and sealingand maintaining.

Once contaminants are removed the idea of protection for the paint is the contaminants arent on the paint they are on the protective wax/sealant layers and away from the paint finish and this barrier protecting against further contaminants, providing a protective sealed layer.. like a M&M hard shell. A good wax/sealant protection protects against these contaminants and only eat away at that, so need to top up protection.

I would strip back and decomtaminate paint and correct finish no more than quarterly tbh, before adding a new hard protective shell back on, then topup after each wash.
I would probably use a cleaner wax or chemical cleaner maybe such as LP, Jeffs Prime, Megs Paint Cleanser more often though (but it would still strip the LSP and need to add some LSP protetcion backfollowing this step), or an all in one such as SRP, that will chemically clean, and then add back protection. To me claying is the first stage in any large mult-step detailing task/project and not a regular monthly occurence and un-needed step, but each to their own routine.

Just my opinion of course,I am not pro or have any claim to instruct others.
...All in the Detail

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steve_70
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Post by steve_70 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 12:41 am

Once its cleansed and corrected and protected, IMO I see no need to strip it all off so frequently,and especially if a good quality wax has been used.
...All in the Detail

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Post by steve_70 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 12:46 am

To be fair though, the question of how often to clay is a loaded one, this is one of those emotive topics, and one that has the detailing world split, and taking a balance view, agreed their are some mild clays out their that wont strip wax and to use somebody elses words.... There are Clay bars specifically designed to be friendly to the wax so you might not even need to rewax afterwards, although these are obviously less effective at removing the contaminants.
...All in the Detail

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ArthurPE
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Post by ArthurPE » Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:20 am

PaulRS4 wrote:I thought the whole point in having an RS4 was to drive it not polishing for days on end?

The last thing I want to do is to spend hours polishing a car.

Each to there own maybe why I am still happily married
why not both?

I spend a good bit of my time with my wife, but we are also individuals with our own interests...

how's the 'judgemental attitude' working out in your marriage? ;)

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ArthurPE
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Post by ArthurPE » Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:24 am

P_G wrote:Things is Paul if you spend 2 days doing a proper correction detail inlcuding glaze, polish and wax, it will last you 6 months with minimal maintenance; i.e a wash and wipe down which takes 30-50 mins when you do it.

If you don't fancy doing the 2 days yourself, then get a pro to do it for you from £400 to £800 dependent on who you use. I have sold on cars that I have kept on top of detailing wise and recouped the money resale time.
1 it protects the investment

2 if done properly saves time between deatils washing, etc.

3 it's excercise, it will give you a work out, saves you $$$, and performs a function, as opposed to burning energy on a treadmill

4 it can be Zen :D

5 it's several hours every 6 months, we waste time in less beneficial ways

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ArthurPE
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Post by ArthurPE » Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:33 am

wellzieRS4 wrote:Just feel it, u can feel the contaminates on the paint, i paint cars for a living so i know a thing or two about the surface of a paint finish, you can clay bar as often as u want it don't do know harm, it just makes the surface cleaner before the wax goes on, buffing also does the job with added scratch removal
I haven't used clay...

what I like to do is strip it with a PC/fine pad and Klasse AIO, basically a chemical cleaner (after a good washing with a strong soap) as prep for sealant...

as an expert do you see an issue with this method?
every 9 to 12 months
car looks good to me, not 100%, but >80%, very little marring/cobwebs/hazing

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wellzieRS4
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Post by wellzieRS4 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 9:48 am

ArthurPE wrote:
wellzieRS4 wrote:Just feel it, u can feel the contaminates on the paint, i paint cars for a living so i know a thing or two about the surface of a paint finish, you can clay bar as often as u want it don't do know harm, it just makes the surface cleaner before the wax goes on, buffing also does the job with added scratch removal
I haven't used clay...

what I like to do is strip it with a PC/fine pad and Klasse AIO, basically a chemical cleaner (after a good washing with a strong soap) as prep for sealant...

as an expert do you see an issue with this method?
every 9 to 12 months
car looks good to me, not 100%, but >80%, very little marring/cobwebs/hazing
Yeah that will be ok at the end of the day you cant beat machine buffing and good old fashion elbow grease

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Post by lengster1 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:01 pm

Hmm so if sealant needs to be topped up after every wash whats the point?? I thought sealant was to avoid the need to polish it so often by sealing in all your hard work? You might aswell just polish it everymonth with SRP or similar? Im open to opinions as i thought high def AG was a form of sealant doh!! I have some days planned in for detailing over winter and interested in improving my methods or products if possible?

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wellzieRS4
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Post by wellzieRS4 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 1:34 pm

Synthetic sealants last a long time but you don't get the depth of gloss, natural wax gives you the gloss but doesn't last very long, i have a load of photos of my car after machine polishing but they were taken with iphone so not very good quality

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PJC
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Post by PJC » Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:02 pm

All good here thanks

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ArthurPE
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Post by ArthurPE » Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:15 pm

wellzieRS4 wrote: Yeah that will be ok at the end of the day you cant beat machine buffing and good old fashion elbow grease
I do the aio with a PC7424
if the paint looks hazy (so far the RS4 is holding up) I will do a fine polish (Sonus) after the cleaning, then use aio again prior to sealant

I may have to try clay next go round

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Post by SimonG » Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:43 pm

I have to say I am mighty impressed with the level of commitment and effort that you guys put in.
Question - for someone who is time poor but likes to clean the car himself what products and processes would you recommend?
Could anyone also advise on how best to clean the underside once the current weather has cleared - jet wash?
Thanks in advance

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wellzieRS4
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Post by wellzieRS4 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:41 pm

You get out what u put in

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kay
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Post by kay » Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:12 am

If someone can advise me please, after washing n drying, I've used autoglym super resin polish followed by their sealant extra gloss protection. I want to do a basic detail session soon by using a clay bar after washing. Halfords do 2 types, meguires and their own brand. Are these ok for a 1st time user? My cars paintwork looks fairly ok apart from some swirl marks on bonnett. Then I intend to use AG SRP. I've read about Collinite de elegance (915) is a really good wax for Sprint blue so was intending on using that. Is this a replacement to AG egp or can I use the egp to seal the Collinite wax in?
B7 RS4 saloon Sprint blue facelifted. BMC AIR FILTER, 8mm REAR SPACERS, H &R lowering springs, NON RES VALVED MILTEK...(current)
Subaru Impreza P1 modded..330bhp (4yrs)
Merc 190e 2.5 16v cosworth..black with full black heated leather recaros ..200bhp (5yrs)
Cavalier 2.0 Sri 130bhp (5yrs)

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kay
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Location: yorkshire

Post by kay » Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:12 am

If someone can advise me please, after washing n drying, I've used autoglym super resin polish followed by their sealant extra gloss protection. I want to do a basic detail session soon by using a clay bar after washing. Halfords do 2 types, meguires and their own brand. Are these ok for a 1st time user? My cars paintwork looks fairly ok apart from some swirl marks on bonnett. Then I intend to use AG SRP. I've read about Collinite de elegance (915) is a really good wax for Sprint blue so was intending on using that. Is this a replacement to AG egp or can I use the egp to seal the Collinite wax in?
B7 RS4 saloon Sprint blue facelifted. BMC AIR FILTER, 8mm REAR SPACERS, H &R lowering springs, NON RES VALVED MILTEK...(current)
Subaru Impreza P1 modded..330bhp (4yrs)
Merc 190e 2.5 16v cosworth..black with full black heated leather recaros ..200bhp (5yrs)
Cavalier 2.0 Sri 130bhp (5yrs)

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