Airbox flap DIY guide

[neckarsulm]

Just a rough draft, will finish it off soon

http://www.volkswizard.co.uk/airbox.htm

[sonny]

Great write up, very helpful. I came close to purchasing one of the ITG air filters.

[lengster1]

Top effort i appreciate your time in doing it for everyones benefit,i will take you up on your offer of supplying me a new solenoid valve please,pm me details Thanks Rich

[Dave_M]

Great write up - wish that had been around a month or so ago! I ended up paying Audi - though they did only charge me 1/2 hour labour to remove the airbox and lube up the flap mechanism. All seems to be working ok since.

Dave

[RS4KILLA]

excellent thanks

[neckarsulm]

Dave, 1/2 an hour is bloody good, are you sure they removed it completely as you can lube it with just the airbox lid off or even with just the snorkel out and a bit of spraying behind the headlamp.

I'd say 1.5 to 2 hrs with diagnosis

I'm going to add part numbers and prices (after which I'll PM you Rich as don't have price here) and also a link to video of the flap working and also a defective one.

[scaghead]

well done, this will be a excellent guide to owners in the future....

[neckarsulm]

Glad you like it and of course I am happy to incorporate any suggestions.

Just updated it with videos of good and bad flaps (right at end) and scrawled on some of the images to clarify things.

Price and part numbers I'll do tomorrow.

[adsgreen]

It might be just me but a couple wide angle overview shots (only a couple) with some bits marked up would make a great guide even better.
I find some of the close shots very detailled but hard to visualise in the grand view of the engine bay.

[neckarsulm]

I did think that, so will do!
If you can tell me which pics in particular are hard to place I will take the pics that show them in context

Prices from Audi as of 20/10/10 are as follows

Air box base (inc flap) 079129614D £56.37 + VAT = £66.24
Solenoid valve 037906283C £48.42 + VAT = £56.90

[RS4FTW]

Thanks for that DIY. Appreciate it.

I refer back to a post i made a few weeks ago. My flap is sticking in the open position. How bad is this to leave it like that ?

Although in saying that whenever i start the VCDS test the flap is closed. So not sure why it isnt closing during the test.

[neckarsulm]

I refer back to a post i made a few weeks ago. My flap is sticking in the open position. How bad is this to leave it like that ?

Sorry I didn't reply, it wont do any harm, just might knock the timing back a bit at the top end.

As for it sticking, undo the vac pipe and see if it still sticks, if it does it's the flap sticking on body. It might pop itself free over time as the spring pressure is quite high hence why it's shut when you go back to it.
I doubt it'll be the valve as with the engine off this isn't energised anyway

[RS4FTW]

I refer back to a post i made a few weeks ago. My flap is sticking in the open position. How bad is this to leave it like that ?

Sorry I didn't reply, it wont do any harm, just might knock the timing back a bit at the top end.

As for it sticking, undo the vac pipe and see if it still sticks, if it does it's the flap sticking on body. It might pop itself free over time as the spring pressure is quite high hence why it's shut when you go back to it.
I doubt it'll be the valve as with the engine off this isn't energised anyway

Thanks for the reply

Why would it knock back timing on top end ? Wouldnt it pull back under 5000 rpm as now its sucking in hot air. Top end it should be open afaik.

How can i lube it without taking the entire airbox out ?

[neckarsulm]

Why would it knock back timing on top end ? Wouldnt it pull back under 5000 rpm as now its sucking in hot air. Top end it should be open afaik.

Not so much demand on timing at lower revs, needs to be advanced as far as it feels safe to get max efficiency at higher revs, hot air/bad fuel will peg this back and reduce power output, that's all.

Look at first pic, from the diaphragm to the flap is a linkage, you need to lube this while operating the flap with your hand through the snorkel inlet. The diaphragm all tucked behind and under the headlamp so use a torch to locate it and spray away using flexi nozzle

[RS4FTW]

Why would it knock back timing on top end ? Wouldnt it pull back under 5000 rpm as now its sucking in hot air. Top end it should be open afaik.

Not so much demand on timing at lower revs, needs to be advanced as far as it feels safe to get max efficiency at higher revs, hot air/bad fuel will peg this back and reduce power output, that's all.

Look at first pic, from the diaphragm to the flap is a linkage, you need to lube this while operating the flap with your hand through the snorkel inlet. The diaphragm all tucked behind and under the headlamp so use a torch to locate it and spray away using flexi nozzle

Thanks, how about i just spray the <beep> out of everything

What spray do you recommend ? WD40 ?