Post
by Shoppinit » Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:41 pm
Thanks, guys.
I took it apart again to see if I'd pushed the rubber seals in or something (I hadn't), and decided to try reseating it one more time before putting the old MAFs back on.
Anyway, fired up and ran smoothly. Idle g/s went from 1 to about 3.5 - right in the middle of the range. Took it out and it drove smoothly. All the power is back, no more DTCs. Can't believe what a huge difference a couple of millimeters makes in the positioning of these MAFs. My own fault for not putting the airbox back on properly, though to be fair, it's hardly obvious when it's in place properly.
Let this be a lesson to all. Leaking MAFs cause the DTCs above which are counter intuitive.
The old MAFs were OK, but in the interest of preventive maintenance I'd decided to change the N75 and MAFs. Won't bother doing that again!
The only positive is that the car seems to deliver power slightly smoother under WOT. It's definitely not quicker though. I also accidentally discovered the location of the temp sender. Bonus!
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."