Why are some cars worse than others?

[infrasilver]

I find it unusal that some cars of the same model are more likely to have problems than others.
My S4 has had 3 problems since I have owned it only 10 weeks.

The clutch slipping problem was eventually sorted out with a new uprated clutch plate but keeping all the standard other bits which had been renewed 6 months ago. I'm still not sure if it had an uprated chip fitted as the garage seem to think. £560

I had the car back a week (3 weeks ago) and I have got a fault code showing left engine mount open circuit. Took it back to the garage for them to check it over and everything seems to be connected fine. I have found the procedure for detecting the fault but I have not got round to it yet. £150 for a new mount if needed.

Third problem happened today when it would not start. When I usually turn the ignition on I get 2 bongs from the dash. This time it didn't make the noise and also the engine did not turn over.
I have found from when I bought the car if it the first time you are starting it that day you have to hold the key as far as possible for a couple of seconds before it will turn over. I assumed it was going through some checks before it turned over.
I managed to start the car today by taking the key out of the ignition locking the doors and leaving it for a minute. I got back in the car and it started as usual.

Why did my Audi Cabriolet which I owned for 4 years only need disc, pads and tyres in the whole time I owned it?

[xyber]

Sounds like you ignition switch is worn out, had a few cars do exactly those symptoms

[elmo]

Sorry to hear you've had such bad luck as a new owner. I can confirm that I have had to replace my own ignition switch and starter motor since buying my S4 a year ago, but other than that I have been relatively lucky (touch wood).

I think you have just been a bit unlucky, as I have found the S4 to be reasonably reliable. Hopefully that will be the last of you run of bad experiences and you can get along with enjoying the motoring experience that a 340BHP V8 brings along.

[nihc]

I've had my 05 Cab for 4 years now and only had to replace a rear parking sensor and 1 rear light bulb. Changed the front disks and pads a few K ago at 43K.
The car had one previous lady owner, who must have treated it well.

Maybe, a lot has to do with how the car's been treated by previous owners?

[neckarsulm]

Clutch is 99% of the time down to driving style so not the cars fault

Electrical fault with engine mount is unlucky but typical of an ageing £40k car.
It sounds like you were out looking for that fault having done a VAG COM scan?
Maybe you wouldn't have noticed it otherwise?

As for switch, maybe people have had a bunch of keys attached to ignition key which can wear our an ignition switch rapidly?

My B7 has done 80k with nothing needed bar servicing - just had first discs and pads at front and VAG COM scans always come up clear.
The previous owner had a B6 before and he said that was very reliable too.

[BlingBling]

As neckarsulm states your clutch problem is related to driving style and the intial repair carried out.

The engine mounts are prone to failure. This in my opinion is related to the VAG parts bin to reduce costs. The same mount is used on many different engines ranging from 2L to our 4.2 beasts. Mine has been showing a code for over a year now. I will change it eventually.

With every car you have pigs and good ones. Mine is a 2003 with 62k and other than replacing the usual consumables I have only had to replace the control arms. Again a VAG part bin item not 100% fit for carrying a V8 lump. It has never let me down.

[infrasilver]

I'm assuming the previous owner was sensing that things were starting to wrong with the car and wanted rid before it cost him too much. I was a bit suspicious when he accepted my (low) first offer for the car.

I do really like the car and the good aspects outweight these faults I am experiencing. I even said to friends before I bought the car I would have bad luck with my next car because my previous one had been so good. I have kept the Cabrio as a spare car just incase I need a backup, I could do with selling it though to fund the repairs for the S4.

I have the management light on the dash from the faulty engine mount and was clearing it every couple of days but I have got bored of doing that now so it stays on until its fixed.

Does anyone know if it engine out for the engine mount replacement or is it possible just to lift it slightly to get it in? I assume the ignition barrel is same as most other Audi's to fix.

[BlingBling]

What is your code for the engine mount? I ask the question becasue as stated already mine has been shot for over a year and not once has the CEL illuminated.

It is not an engine out job to replace the mount. The front bumper needs removing to get access. It would be a good opportunity to get the serpentine belt replaced. This normally needs replacing at about 80K.

[infrasilver]

Just checked the code for the engine mount and it is;

17981 - "left engine mount solenoid valve (N144) open circuit." But when I cleared the code I had another fault code appear.

19497 - "powertrain databus implausible engine temp no signal/comms" as well as the 17981 code.

Looks like I have got another possible problem!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BlingBling]

Just checked the code for the engine mount and it is;

17981 - "left engine mount solenoid valve (N144) open circuit." But when I cleared the code I had another fault code appear.

Your engine mount is shot. No real detrimental impacts if not repaired immediately, had the same code for +1yr. Occasionally you may hear a clunking sound. The fault will not clear until you have replaced the engine mount.

Can't comment on your other code.

[neckarsulm]

I suspect it's the 19497 that's putting the CEL on as it's relating to coolant temp sensor which is essential for emissions.
Cheap fix if it's just the sensor, have checked google and it looks likely

[infrasilver]

I'm going to try my spare key in the ignition later and see if the starting problem goes. If it is just a weak battery in the key it might take a little while to register it to the imobiliser. If not I will order a new switch, they are not expensive.
The 19497 code only came up the other day, whilst the engine mount code and CEL has been showing for a few weeks. I'm going to plug in this afternoon and see what is showing after I have took it for a drive.
Just hope no new codes have appeared since I last looked.

[1781cc]

oh, where to start....

New Engine Mount
New Rear Brake Hoses
New Injectors on cylinders 2 & 7
New Clutch
New Flywheel
New Coilpacks all round
New Sparkplugs all Round
New Lambda Sensor
Rear bulb has blown 4 times on the left side, finally traced to a faulty fuse
Duck Egg faulty tyre...

Still chasing a misfire from the day I had the gas fitted, and on that side I have had a new Gas ECU and New GAS loom

trying not to be bitter and hoping that one day the car will be trouble free - 93K miles now, bought at 83K 7 months ago...

[infrasilver]

The story continues...

Just been away working in Holland for 3 weeks and found my battery was flat when I tried to start it yesterday. Got the jump leads out and fired it up. Had to reset the clock etc but the radio code was still set. The latest problem is that my airbag light is on along with all the other faults.

Was this due to the battery being flat or do I have another fault to repair now the airbag light is on?

Lee, I am catching you up with faults...

[1781cc]

just a note, because the battery discharged for longer than 5 mins, best to do a throttle body alignment test.

I am still fighting with my car, now I need a starter motor... how bout we touch base at the end of the year and he has spent the most gets a free beer from the other? lol