Bad clutch slip.

Post by **infrasilver** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:22 am

I can't find this specific question on the search option.

I picked my new 2003 B6 S4 up on Saturday and was enjoying it until I launched from the lights to see how it performs this afternoon and it hit the redline but I was only doing about 30MPH. The memory of the smell of clutch burn is fresh in my mind still now. The trouble is it seems that it won't rev above about 1750 to 2000 rpm without slipping and I had to drive from leed to nottingham by feathering the throttle all the way. I'm gutted as I broke the bank to buy it and I have been looking for the right car for while.

The car had a new clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder only 3 months ago by the previous owner and I wondered how much of a pain it was to change if I don't get it done on warranty, especially as the guy that I bought the car from is hours away along with the garage it was fixed. Or could it just not of been fitted correctly and just need some sort of adjustment. I would of thought that a clutch should last a lot longer than 3 months. I've driven lots of cars very hard without clutch problems before. I have even used nitrous on stock clutches in the past.

Post by **BlingBling** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:07 am

A hard launch should not fry a new clutch even though the S4 is a bit lardy. I believe that the clutches are self adjusting. It is either incorrect installation or worse case scenario a new clutch etc was not actually fitted. Clutches on these can last up to 80K. I still have the original clutch fitted with 64k and several hard launches in recent weeks. no slippage but a whiff of clutch due to poor launching.

Post by **infrasilver** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:39 pm

It had its clutch around 78000 miles and its only done a few since then with all genuine parts and I have been told via the previous owner by the independant VW Audi centre that fitted it to get in touch with my local Audi dealer and for them to sort it under guarentee and to get them to ring the VW Audi centre if there is a problem.

I am not holding my breath with this getting sorted due to some dealers not wanting to know. Am I to expect a long fight with Audi over this?

Post by **no_RS** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:40 pm

Why would the Audi dealer sort this out at their cost? they didn't do the work. You need to take it back to the people that sold the car to you for them to rectify. I suggest you read this link.

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/faq.htm?id=43

Hope this helps.

Pete

Post by **infrasilver** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:13 pm

It was a private sale and the VW/Audi centre that did the work said to get Audi to look at it and they will see if it is faulty parts rather than bad installation. As they think it is faulty parts of course.

I rang Audi today and I explained the story to them and they seem happy to give it the once over and access the situation on on the information I gave them, its booked in on Thursday and they give it a multi point check for free.

I have took the car out when I got home from work and it didn't slip, but the engine/gearbox were coldish (up to temp when I arrived back home in it) and I didn't really give it too much stick as I don't really want to force it to slip and make it worse. If it is badly installed which I assume Audi will claim it will mean a 6 hour round trip to the garage that did the work.

Got a bad feeling this is going to drag on.

Post by **no_RS** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:11 pm

Hope this get sorted quickly so you can enjoy the car. It maybe an oil seal has gone and this has contaminated the clutch, the only way to really find out is to take the out clutch. It is worth asking the Audi dealer how to replace the clutch anyway as then at least you'll know the max cost involved.

Post by **infrasilver** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:07 pm

My thoughts exactly, just been out in it again for a drive and the "thought light bulb" was over my head. When I realised that the oil seal was not on the list of parts replaced.
The car seems fine (as far as I dare push it) when cold but when warm I am back to it slipping as soon as I forget to very gently ease the power on.

Just checked the mileage when the clutch was fitted and compared it to what it is now and there is only 1600 miles done since. Definitely not right with so few miles clocked up.

Post by **marv** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:50 am

Out of interest, how does the clutch slipping manifest itself while driving?

I don't think I've ever experienced it, but would like to know for future reference. Thanks

Post by **infrasilver** » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:12 pm

The revs of the engine rise whilst at the same time the car will not go any faster. And then you will get the smell of the clutch wafting through the cabin. You will know if it was to happen.

Post by **NCA01** » Wed Dec 23, 2009 12:40 pm

Gents... just my 2 pence worth. Are you sure it's Clutch slip?
I had a very simular thing with my B6 S4 that I collected in September. There would be a loss of power / judder when pulling away and changing gear. My first thought was Clutch Slip...
But after a quick trip to MRC the boys spotted that it was a missfire and one of my coil-covers had gone. Replaced that and all is fine.
Just a thought - but definatly worth looking in to.

Post by **infrasilver** » Fri Dec 25, 2009 6:11 pm

I went to the dealer for them to take a look at it and he thought straight away its the diaphram/pressure plate making it slip. He didn't even drive it he just sat in it with the engine running and tried to stall it in first and fifth gears and said thats all he needed to see. He said the pedal was heavy and it didn't travel right down to the floor as he would normally expect it to.

He said they would repair it under warranty if it was found that the diaphram was faulty but if it was found to be OK I would be liable for the 2 days labour for stripping the clutch. Or the total bill for a new clutch/flywheel replacement would be £1700ish. I have had a couple of quotes around the £800 mark at specialist clutch fitters for a new clutch fitted.
I don't want to risk the bill for a investigation from Audi (£750) when I can get a clutch fitted at an independant repairer for about the same price.

Post by **infrasilver** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:55 pm

I have eventually taken the car in for repair yesterday.

They called me this morning and suggested that the car had been chipped at some point and the original clutch could not take the power going through it. I have looked online and the re-map shops claim 365hp and 440nm torque figures after the re-map. They are fitting a new friction lining to it that is made from better than the original stuff from a guy in Birmingham.

They also mentioned they could get the dual mass flywheel welded and balanced if required as this would also help with traction of the clutch.

What are your thought on this as it sounds unusual to get it welded up. Has anyone else had their B6 S4 chipped and what effects have you had?

Post by **xyber** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:25 pm

Sounds iffy to me, clutches have plenty of headroom above standard power normally. That reason maybe the case if the OE clutch was replaced with a cheapo one

personally I wouldn't weld a dual mass FW either, it's fitted for a reason, even if they are abit lame. I've driven a transit before and after it was welded up, it was shockingly rough!!

Better off fitting the updated B7 FW

Post by **BlingBling** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:06 pm

Stealers BS. A chip on a N/A engine does not give massive gains. Definitely not enough for it to funk the clutch.

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