When to replace MAFs?

4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 450 bhp
4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 480 bhp (plus)
MoRS6+
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Post by MoRS6+ » Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:59 pm

Already had a health check a short while ago there. That's how they identified the boost-leak I had. However, I haven't had a power run since, so will be interesting (and nerve-wracking) to see what the old girl makes. Was a boost hose clip missing - crazy eh? Also identified a small hole in one of the intercoolers which has yet to be repaired. Was gonna wait until the cambelt change so they could do both at the same time. That hole might lose a tiny bit of power but shouldn't be much at all.

Even then though would the health-check identify an iffy or borderline MAF/N75?? Surely the only true way is to change and retest?
Last edited by MoRS6+ on Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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CliveH
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Post by CliveH » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:03 pm

Yes, a proper health check will pick up a dodgy MAF or N75. Change and retest would certainly be conclusive. Another option would be to swap with someone who has confirmed healthy MAFs/N75 - there will be plenty of other RS6s there that weekend ;)

Are you still running the original ICs and hoses?
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
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Post by MoRS6+ » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:04 pm

CliveH wrote:Are you still running the original ICs and hoses?
Yep.

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Post by CliveH » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:07 pm

Obviously new ICs is an expensive job but would be wise to replace the hoses with some decent ones.
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
S8 D2 facelift, RS6 C5 saloon, both gone but not forgotten

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Post by Shoppinit » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:07 pm

MoRS6+ wrote:I wonder - if there was no difference, do you reckon Doug would take the new parts back? Or am I being too cheeky there?
You'd probably have no difficulty shifting them on. Or keep them as spares.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Post by CliveH » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:08 pm

Yea, I'd keep them as spares.
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
S8 D2 facelift, RS6 C5 saloon, both gone but not forgotten

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Post by MoRS6+ » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:08 pm

CliveH wrote:Yes, a proper health check will pick up a dodgy MAF or N75. Change and retest would certainly be conclusive.?
I think I'll do my run and see what she makes before I start piddling around with changing stuff (not that I know how to anyway..). Last time at SRR, it was piss-poor! Only made 436 and 441hp respectively. Charlie said 'summit is up' and he was right - but I'm nervous about my MRC run.

Oh well - will drink plenty of coffee that day :D

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Post by Shoppinit » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:14 pm

What kind of power are you expecting?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Post by MoRS6+ » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:17 pm

Shoppinit wrote:What kind of power are you expecting?
Well fingers (toes, eyes, lips, bollox and tits) crossed, I'll get as near as damn it possible to factory power (473hp). I'm rather hoping that boost-leak was costing me circa 30-35hp. Heeeeeeeeeeere's hoping! :D

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Post by Shoppinit » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:18 pm

Forgot you were in a plus! Are you going to log your power runs with the vagcom?

Has anyone heard of this place:
http://www.emissioncontrols.co.uk/page. ... wpage=home
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Post by MoRS6+ » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:21 pm

Shoppinit wrote:Forgot you were in a plus! Are you going to log your power runs with the vagcom?
I wasn't going to, no. I don't have the cable etc. But there will be people there with all the stuff - should I do it? Benefits/reasons for doing this?

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Post by Shoppinit » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:22 pm

Interesting to see what your fueling / ignition is doing under load. Useful as a reference later for comparing to when you had a known power output.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Post by RS6-4dr911 » Wed Jan 27, 2010 6:02 am

CliveH wrote:Yes, a proper health check will pick up a dodgy MAF or N75. Change and retest would certainly be conclusive. Another option would be to swap with someone who has confirmed healthy MAFs/N75 - there will be plenty of other RS6s there that weekend ;)

Are you still running the original ICs and hoses?
And what exactly constitutes a proper health check? I've done some reading up on the subject and unless the MAF is flat out dead, determining that it's off takes some doing. N75 I think can be checked with VAG and if you see it cycling under boost, it is presumed well, but even then, how exactly do you know if it's truly healthy or like a middle aged man that looks healthy but is a heart attack waiting to happen?

Any diagnostic trickery would be helpful if you'd pass it on.


Thanks

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Post by CliveH » Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:37 am

RS6-4dr911 wrote: And what exactly constitutes a proper health check?
Unless you know what you're doing with Vagcom and know these engines, then the best answer is to go to a good independent specialist who really know their stuff.
Clive

S2 ABY coupe, S4 B5 saloon, S4 B6 avant
RS4 B7 phantom black saloon, mint, fully loaded, low mileage - FOR SALE!- http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNp ... ic&t=88981
S8 D2 facelift, RS6 C5 saloon, both gone but not forgotten

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Post by Shoppinit » Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:59 am

RS6-4dr911 wrote:I've done some reading up on the subject and unless the MAF is flat out dead, determining that it's off takes some doing. N75 I think can be checked with VAG and if you see it cycling under boost, it is presumed well
I'd be interested in determining a method for testing MAFs. They're too expensive to change randomly. These are sensors that send values that can be easily logged with VCDS, so it should be easy enough to compare values with a healthy car up the rev range under full load (WOT). Now, just need to find someone with a healthy car!

I can't help feeling that a bad MAF would throw DTCs on lambda correction or the MAFs themselves, and that if nothing is going out of bounds, the MAF must be good. Am I missing something? I know that the E46 M3 suffers from MAF problems, but I'm trying to get my head around what the failure mode would be and how to eliminate the MAFs from the diagnostics. I know that those guys unplug the MAF to see if the car runs better in limp home mode, but that won't work for our turbo cars. Or rather, the cut in boost from being in limp mode will more than overshadow any improvement due to default fuelling when the MAFs are unplugged.

For the N75, just because the VCDS shows that the part is being cycled, doesn't mean that the solonoid is opening and closing cleanly or at all. There are 2 wires going to it, so the best the ECU can do is determine the resistance of the coil to know if the part is working or not. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this. The part is dirt cheap and easy to get to, so for me it's a preventative maintenance item. I'll be changing mine soon.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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