ARBs

Post by **aikihook** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:43 pm

Got a set (thicker rear) and fitted em myself Saturday. I left the suspension standard so the ride is the same but a real big difference to handling, turns in much better, front doesn't twitch when powering through the gears. I opted for the hard setting for both front and rear (just that the links lined up better this way) - haven't pushed it too much so can't say much about understeer or oversteer however car feels a lot more stable at at back at high speeds.

Was a doddle to fit - even managed to save the rear drop links by running a thread restorer over the rusted exposed thread of the ball joints first.

Recommend this upgrade as a must - and relatively inexpensive it you do it yourself.

Post by **MarkB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:47 pm

aikihook wrote: Was a doddle to fit - even managed to save the rear drop links by running a thread restorer over the rusted exposed thread of the ball joints first.

I SO wish I'd done that on mine. I'm now looking at making some nice new rose jointed ones.

Post by **MCB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:37 pm

I'm now looking at making some nice new rose jointed ones. Smile

Keep us posted on this Mark, should be fairly simple to do, are you going to use a length of drilled and tapped hex ally bar - with corresponding rose joints and rubber boots?

Could make a good tech article...

Post by **MarkB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:47 pm

I doubt if I'll rubber boot them and I'm thinking if I do them I'll use female rose joints with threaded bar connecting them.

Post by **ChipHazzard** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:51 pm

IIRC S4Woody was making them at one point

Post by **MarkB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:53 pm

ChipHazzard wrote:IIRC S4Woody was making them at one point

Yes he was, he may even still have some...

Post by **MCB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:17 pm

I doubt if I'll rubber boot them and I'm thinking if I do them I'll use female rose joints with threaded bar connecting them.

That’s what I meant similar to the ones CPP make and I don’t think you will find that even SS joints will last without boots on them, learnt that on another car I used to have.

Anyway if S4Woody has some that will save a job...

Post by **MarkB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:43 pm

Seeing that picture I'm now having second thoughts on how I'd make mine. I was thinking female rose joints with thinner bar connecting them but I've just had visions of them bending under load.

A handy picture. Thanks. Oh and mine will work out cheaper than woodys (for me as I'd be making them)

Post by **s4woody** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:55 pm

yes i still have some..with rubber boots 2...oh and spacers for the bolts..in the process of making some for my M5 now..alot longer and for the front too..the rear have tiny links and not really able to rose joint them..only about 3 inch in total length..

Post by **MCB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 4:28 pm

Seeing that picture I'm now having second thoughts on how I'd make mine. I was thinking female rose joints with thinner bar connecting them but I've just had visions of them bending under load.

At the risk of suggesting plagiarism (Joke) I would copy the CPP design and at the risk of telling you the obvious I would get yourself some HE30TF hex ally bar for the link and drill - tap both ends – could do with a lathe or pillar drill for this as the nuts will need to be square to the end of the link or else they will not lock properly. Then it is just a question of getting your joints, rubber boots, bolts and spacers (Short piece of stainless tube).

Finishing touch would be to have the links anodised although smooth Hamerite would work just as well!

That was so easy to type but as we all know it probably would not be quite as simple as that, good project though.

Post by **MarkB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 5:02 pm

Full machine shop will sort out the cutting, drilling, tapping, screwing etc. I think I'll go with round bar to keep the weight down. Once the length is set it shouldn't need changing.

I'm still unsure about the need for boots but could get them I guess...

Post by **MCB** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 5:15 pm

I think I'll go with round bar to keep the weight down.

Could do and have a couple of flats machined into the bar so you can get a spanner on?

If you give me the length of the bar I could sketch this up (CAD) and post it on the site, so folks can easily get them made?

I'm still unsure about the need for boots but could get them I guess...

Pennies protecting £'s.

Post by **buzzard** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 6:10 pm

i have H&R ARB's front & rear and metal drop links
went for the thin rear bar and kept the rest of the suspension stock(cus of the dreaded speed bumps)
Handles much better but could only fit front on one setting and the rear has to be carefully positioned otherwise your rear drive shafts will grind a
groove in the drop links or ends of your roll bars!!!
metal links are good but down side is they have to be constantly greased or they rattle like cluck!

Post by **s4woody** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:47 pm

you need to firstl fill the boots up with grease to keep the joints lubricated..
if you get spacers and longer bolts you can fit the spacer to the rear arb mount which moves the arb back..that inturn allows you to use both hard and soft settings on the rear arb without it rubbing..
@MCB mine are made from round bar with flats for the adjustment..there are a few other things you need to do but im sure your,ll sort that out as you make them..

Post by **Soupie69uk** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:40 pm

Are the links the bits the ARB's join on to?

I thought the S4's have metal ones already? My car has plastic ones so was going to get the S4 ones when I fitted an ARB.

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