Short shift fitting

2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 251bhp
2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 261bhp
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Richspec
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Post by Richspec » Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:45 pm

Is it definitely required to take the console off on a pre facelift and how easy is it?
I fancy having a go at the diy mod.

Rich
'98 Imola Avant - at last! :)
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Blue_Thunder
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Post by Blue_Thunder » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:03 am

I can't see how you'd do it without to be honest. If you don't remove the centre console then you can't get to all 4 bolts which hold the shifter assembly in place. Without removing those you wouldn't be able to get at the second load of bolts (for info, the fitting guides mention T20 torx screws, but on a pre-facelift these are 5mm hex bolts). It's dead easy to remove the centre console as well, so long as you can get the facia plate off in one piece unlike me... D'oh!

Give it a go, it's a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I don't know my :assflash: from my elbow when it comes to hands on stuff!

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shineydave
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Post by shineydave » Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:27 am

Mines still in the door pocket so you can hone your skills at the meet
the sheep are still eating Gordons door trims from the boost gauge install so you might possibly leave unscathed
Dave

"if that's the Turbo Fairy knocking tell her i'm not in"

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S4TAN
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Post by S4TAN » Sun Feb 18, 2007 3:11 am

the sheep are still eating
... good news ... i'm very partial to roast lamb; wouldn't want them all skinny and bloodless :FIREdevil:
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Russ,greys4
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Post by Russ,greys4 » Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:51 am

Is it definitely required to take the console off on a pre facelift and how easy is it?
I fancy having a go at the diy mod.
my car is pre face lift and i didnt remove centre console!
The lowriders gone! But still loved. Long live the 911-C2!!!

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h8cak
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Post by h8cak » Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:47 pm

Mines still in the door pocket so you can hone your skills at the meet
Cant say that i didnt see that comming mark :shock:
Wide Body S4

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h8cak
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Post by h8cak » Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:49 pm

It is possible not to remove the center consoul in the pre facelift but is a lot more fiddly. and you need small hands!! :wink:
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PaulS4
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Post by PaulS4 » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:32 pm

Just finished fitting the ebay short shift but only went as far as changing the lever, so not the bushes. My facelift model didn't have the Torq screws only allen screws.

Happy with the results except I have somehow lost the gate for reverse. I can select all the gears fine but there is no way of knowing whether I'm in first or reverse.

Anybody have any ideas where I went wrong?
Black S4, Remap, RS4 reps, Cat back Miltek, Shortshift and Angel Eyes.

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shineydave
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Post by shineydave » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:40 pm

did you hammer the correct piece into the shaft before you fitted the kit? the little squarish block with a round peg on it, that's the detent for reverse
Dave

"if that's the Turbo Fairy knocking tell her i'm not in"

http://www.ukchat.com/home/setnick.asp?room=RS2346

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PaulS4
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Post by PaulS4 » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:45 pm

emmm, No. I'll have to restrip and have a look at that. I saw the object you mention but couldn't see where it could go as well as the other odly shapped item. I watched the video but these aren't mentioned in the JHM vid so I just ignored them. Thanks for your help
Black S4, Remap, RS4 reps, Cat back Miltek, Shortshift and Angel Eyes.

Blue_Thunder
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Post by Blue_Thunder » Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:22 pm

If you look on the underside of the plastic assembly you'll see a little black plastic rail. This is what the metal hook needs to be pushed over (ie: pushed down when you're shifting) in order to get your car into reverse. Note that you only need to install one of the oddly shaped things. The BM Racing instructions show which one it is and where it goes. Just make sure you put the shaft the right way round so the metal 'hook' is the same side as the black plastic rail.

rsdreamer
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Post by rsdreamer » Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:18 pm

Put my ebay special in at the weekend, (facelift option).

Re-used existing bushes and fitted it with pivot at bottom, (shortest throw).

All in all from start to finish, it took 3 hours, (15 minutes to drill lever to insert reverse indent and 30 minutes to set up gate position correctly).

Probably going to try pivot at centre position, it's just a little too short now, and with the gate adjustment taking four or five attempts I'm not too sure how tight the lock-tite is holding.

Spend some time setting the gate positioning up. Mine feels good and certainly not 'notchy', which I put down to the re-use of the two rubber bushes holding the shift rails.

All in all, wirth every penny.

rsdreamer
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Blue_Thunder
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Post by Blue_Thunder » Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:58 pm

[quote="rsdreamer"]All in all from start to finish, it took 3 hours, (15 minutes to drill lever to insert reverse indent and 30 minutes to set up gate position correctly).
quote]

I just hammered the reverse hook into place. 30 seconds of frantic bashing was all it took. Also alleviated some of the frustration that built up during the installation! The hook sits nice and tight in the shaft and certainly won't be falling out.

I went for the middle setting as i'd read some people thought the bottom pivot was too short a throw. Very happy with my new shift.

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PaulS4
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Post by PaulS4 » Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:13 pm

That's me just re-stripped and re-built again, correctly this time and all is working as advertised. Very nice changes although slightly clunky in reverse.

Excellent buy and thanks for your help
Black S4, Remap, RS4 reps, Cat back Miltek, Shortshift and Angel Eyes.

rsdreamer
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Post by rsdreamer » Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:47 am

Bluethunder, my comment was a little misleading really. The reverse 'hook' position was pre-drilled - but to the wrong hole size.

I was a little nervous of over drilling the hole, and slowly drilled to the correct dia. Nearly bent the hook shaft when pushing into the lever.

Only need to re-set the pivot point now to the middle hole.

rsdreamer
:yellowrs4:

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