K03 hybrid

2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 251bhp
2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 261bhp
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Alps
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Post by Alps » Thu Jan 04, 2007 5:14 pm

MCB wrote:What do you guys reckon to contacting various specialists to find out if they can / would be interested in coming up with a price for this conversion, I'm not in the market right know - touch wood - however we may get a positive reaction from someone...?

As discussed, if mine go pop now way will I be going for a lengthy and costly RS4 style conversion and the thought of replacing them with standard KO3's seems a bit boring.
Well, funnily enough, I was talking to the bloke across from my work, who happens to be a car nut too, and he recommended a guy to work on my car. This dude works mainly on Lancia Evo's but also works on other high performance cars.

I believe the evo's are turbos too so this could be a good thing for us.

If someone is prepared to give me a brief, point by point summary of what roughly needs to be done (problems that we may face etc) in this conversion I'll get the garages contact details and talk it over with him.

I have followed this thread, but as most of you know I'm not in the slightest bit tech minded so the technicalities of the project unfortunately are well beyond me :oops: If the garage wants to have a pop at it then maybe someone in here can have a chat with him instead in order to fully and properly brief him on the project.

PS Via the dude opposite my work I may possibly have some good news for all of you who are looking for large brake discs ;) But I'll need to talk to him further about this before saying anything more in case I end up looking even thicker :)
01 RS4, Milltek, Dahlback Racing rears, RS6 fronts and a few bits to be added.

Also, as I hate driving, my toy to play with - a Honda CBR F Sport

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Post by MCB » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:50 pm

I’ll make a start and we could add/copy&paste till we get there?

Ref AW:
  • Remove headlights, bumper.

    Disconnect radiator hoses, power steering lines (Clamp lines) and disconnect A/C lines from condenser.

    Remove front frame, there are two torx bolts up top and four on each side on the frame rails. Remove these and the entire front frame will come loose. Also remove headlight washer lines.

    Disconnect inner CV joints and allow to hang loose, then tie back toward the rear of the car for clearance.

    Once the front end is off remove the intercoolers and intercooler piping the main inlet tubes are held on with o-rings and are very tight, don't be afraid to use a pry bar to pop off.

    You now have access to the turbo’s, remove the oil and coolant lines (I had a lift so this was much easier).

    Unbolt the turbo’s from the manifolds and the manifolds from the heads.

    Unbolt the heat shields and then the downpipes, unplug the front 02 sensors and remove the manifolds through the front of the car (I had to pry on the driver side of the engine for clearance to get the manifold on that side).

    The pass side turbo will come out the front of the car from underneath.

    The driver side turbo will cone out from the bottom almost straight down (you can pull this without removing the manifold but it's much easier if you do).

    Remove the oil drain and fill lines and clean.

    Re-install is the opposite of removal.
To make this simpler we could just ask to quote labour only, we supply parts and materials.

And also suggest to keep this simple we do not involve additional work/projects such as timing belt/water pump Etc.

Maybe we should add notes on the likely probs/difficulty they will encounter in various areas (And keep quiet on this being the entire job!) as I have a few notes I can dig out if no one else comes up with them?

What do you guys think?
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buzzard
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Post by buzzard » Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:03 pm

Good summery MCB
first paste for absolute beginners
disconnect battery and have air con degassed before detaching lines from anywhere on the system
dont forget the radio code.
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Post by davs4 » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:45 pm

Check out this site loads of good info including engine swap . http://homepage.mac.com/edyjun1/S4/index.htm

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Post by rolskii » Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:42 pm

I would go an invest in a can of plastic skin .... or 2 ...!!!!
If anyone does the turb swap in place ..... keep a good pictoral diary ..... also of yr lost knuckles .......
I did always think of swapping turbs this way, but was told its impossible .....
Im not scared of losing a few knuckles ... but found it easier earning/losing a few grand as work committments took control too.... just waiting to see the write-up that will follow .. :wink:

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Alps
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Post by Alps » Sat Jan 06, 2007 5:31 pm

Thanks MCB for the list.

I couldn't access this site yesterday so didn't get a chance to print off your list. So will take it into work on Monday and give the dude a call and see what he says. From what I was told about him he may well be up for a challenge.

Question though is, if he is up for it, who's gonna be up for guniea pigging their car???
01 RS4, Milltek, Dahlback Racing rears, RS6 fronts and a few bits to be added.

Also, as I hate driving, my toy to play with - a Honda CBR F Sport

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Post by MCB » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:22 pm

Your welcome, If we could post a list of recommended specialists/garages I will put a letter together and send it off to them and see what they say...

I’ll start:

Doug
MRC Tuning
Unit 5
Mead Park
Thorpe Mead
Thorpe Way Industrial Estate
Banbury
OX16 4RZ

As soon as we have 3/4 I will post off.

Paul
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Doug_S2
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Post by Doug_S2 » Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:16 pm

I would not like to change turbos without pulling the engine for a couple of reasons. One is how to torque up the oil and water lines as it is a reall pita to get to when the engine is in. And the time it takes to pull the engine you might as well change the clutch for the extra 0.5 to 1 hour that will take - if you want to change the clutch at a later date you have another 6 hours ish to do that. Remameber to at least flush and clean out the oil lines or replace them, again more awkward than you think in situ.

I presume these are the hybrids with the small ko3 shafts - so they can still bend like normal ko3 turbos. The problem with ko3 turbos are if they overspin because you pop a hose they are more than likely going to break very soon after.

If you get ko4s and no other fuelling mods we put a geneirc map on for 360bhp ish (300 on the maf) for £100 so the car runs safe. (ko4 and/or big injector cars are usually £650)

Now if someone really wants to try this ko3 hybrid then I would be willing to try it!
S2 Coupe : S4 B5 WB : RS6 C5 : S4 B8 : R8 V8 Turbo : Q7 4.2 TDI

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Post by MCB » Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:38 pm

Cheers for the info Doug :thumbs:
Now if someone really wants to try this ko3 hybrid then I would be willing to try it!
Engine in or out (PITA Etc)?

Cheers

Paul
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Post by Doug_S2 » Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:42 pm

I'll try it in he car if someone wants to be the guinea pig
S2 Coupe : S4 B5 WB : RS6 C5 : S4 B8 : R8 V8 Turbo : Q7 4.2 TDI

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Post by s4woody » Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:42 pm

he says its a pita when the engine is in..
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Post by GrahamS4 » Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:06 pm

Information really appreciated Doug.
Present: 2010 Ice silver B8 S4 s-tronic saloon (standard)
Past: 1998 Agate grey B5 S4 saloon (MRC tuned)
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Post by s4woody » Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:16 pm

oh and not forgetting the matter of hours..wasn,t there a discussion on a fixed price labour charge a few pages ago..
GARTH ROAD MOT CENTRE LTD
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Exhausts,Clutches,Diagnostics,Tyres,Servicing and Air Conditioning
Opening soon is our new motorcycle Mot bay
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Post by S4TAN » Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:13 pm

Now if someone really wants to try this ko3 hybrid then I would be willing to try it!
I'll try it in he car if someone wants to be the guinea pig
I reckon that could be me then! Doug; I'll pop in tomorrow if you're around and let's talk about this ... :nodder:
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Post by MCB » Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:50 am

he says its a pita when the engine is in..
oh and not forgetting the matter of hours..wasn,t there a discussion on a fixed price labour charge a few pages ago..
Slow down S4Woody...
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