Battery Removal

2.7 V6 30v biturbo - 380 bhp
RobertH
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Post by RobertH » Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:30 am

Mine went flat the other day. Audi roadside/warranty people said it had to go back to dealer if someone came out, but pointed out that the RAC (same company coming out - different team) would change it on site. Would not effect warranty and have RAC comeback for any damage.

Local manager then came out and fitted a new one and after about 2 hours charged £75 all in.

Audi wanted 105 for the battery and 30 mins fitting at £56.

Also my wife's help meant the battery came out from it's setting without the normal dismantling of the wiring loom in front.

We even took pictures of the removal apparently as a friend works for the AA and wanted to see how the RAC did it as it is known as a bu**er!

Robert.

Golich
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Post by Golich » Mon Mar 06, 2006 8:26 pm

I'm confused - 2hrs to change your battery. Audi wanting 30mins to change it? It doesn't take longer than 10mins once you know how.

Also, you don't need to remove any wiring loom.

Can you post the pics.

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TWH
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Post by TWH » Tue Mar 07, 2006 1:49 pm

Yeah, took me no time to do it. It looked like it would be nasty but once I'd been shown the way on here, it was a lot more simple than it looked.
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RobertH
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Post by RobertH » Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:07 am

Pictures - apparently the digital camara was full so it is on a normal one. Who knows when it will be developed....

I think the main point I was making is that you can have the RAC change it for a lot less than an Audi garage, that it is unlikely to invalidate anything, that the RAC will fix any problem they cause and that the wiring loom or whatever goes from the engine bay back near it sometimes has to come off. The AA man I know says that is what he was told to do and he had changed one the previous week.

Given that my knowledge of these things is virtually zero I felt I saved myself a lot of grief and a lot of money using the RAC. You're right that Audi quoted less time but at the end of the day you pay for a job being done correctly (you hope). Suited me. The quote " once I'd been shown the way " sums it up really. That is why this forum is so good - it stopped me before I did any damage!

Robert.

ps - I looked beforehand and unless you have xx small hands like the wife you will struggle to get the battery out easily I reckon.

Golich
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Post by Golich » Wed Mar 15, 2006 2:41 pm

RobertH wrote:I think the main point I was making is that you can have the RAC change it for a lot less than an Audi garage, that it is unlikely to invalidate anything, that the RAC will fix any problem they cause and that the wiring loom or whatever goes from the engine bay back near it sometimes has to come off. The AA man I know says that is what he was told to do and he had changed one the previous week.

Given that my knowledge of these things is virtually zero I felt I saved myself a lot of grief and a lot of money using the RAC. You're right that Audi quoted less time but at the end of the day you pay for a job being done correctly (you hope). Suited me. The quote " once I'd been shown the way " sums it up really. That is why this forum is so good - it stopped me before I did any damage!

Robert.

ps - I looked beforehand and unless you have xx small hands like the wife you will struggle to get the battery out easily I reckon.
I'm really confused :roll: - Are you talking about a B5 RS4, with the battery in the front?

If you are, you don't need to remove any wiring other than the positive and negative terminals from the battery and you don't need small hands once the plastic panel under the window is removed and its a 10min job.

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waitey1
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Post by waitey1 » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:32 pm

How do you avoid `screwing` those V soft fasteners securing the plastic panel under the screen? I thought I was V careful turning one but.....(bit like the manual headlight adjusters)

Golich
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Post by Golich » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:06 am

As you probably know now - They are a 1/4 turn anti clockwise to remove. Like all philips type screws they need plenty of down force on them prior to turning. O and of course the correct size/ type of screwdriver. But being of nylon type material they are very soft, I didn't have any problem with mine, but clearly the techs before me had not been so careful.

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Särås
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Post by Särås » Sat Mar 18, 2006 4:08 pm

Dont forget to change the pollen filter if you change the battery, when you done the work to change the battery it's just 10 sec more time to change the filter... :)

/

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waitey1
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Post by waitey1 » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:18 pm

Couple of questions,Can you replace those soft plastic fasteners or must you replace the whole panel?
Golich, you dont have your receipt with the part no. for that battery? (I`m told Costco is a cheap outlet for Bocsh batteries) so I can do a quick swop.

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PhilT
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Post by PhilT » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:33 pm

The fasteners are part of the panel IIRC. :(
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Golich
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Post by Golich » Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:23 pm

Unfortnately I lost the receipt which really pissed me off as I'm sure the battery has a 3 or 4 year warranty and I'm always so careful with receipts.

But they have the RS4 in their book - make sure they look carefully as there was a bit of confusion between the new and old Bosch books. Basically get the spec off your old battery. If you can't be bothered looking at it call a stealership get a quote for one ask what the spec of the battery is and just a replacement. There is no problem with higher cold start capacity battery.

PS I suspect Phil is correct about the screws, although I'm not certain you could always check at a stealer ship.

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waitey1
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Post by waitey1 » Sun Apr 02, 2006 12:07 pm

Old battery died yesterday so RAC home visit to boost start it (avoiding spikes that can kill the ECU) drove gingerly to friendly mechanic then got a lift to Leeds Costco no sign of any car batteries, back to Garage suitable Bosch Silver Plus ordered from Andrew Page (80amp hour) cost £68.65. 0.5 hr. labour included: new pollen filter( £13.95) cleaned mud out of drain hole under battery tray (removed). No probs with soft plastic "screws"(PhillT was right they are part of the cover). Look out for another long coarse threaded screw that holds the pollen filter lid part of the cover down.Reprogramed the radio. Job done.

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