Fuse 29 interrupt switch
Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2022 10:11 pm
Quick hack share.
I drive my 6 only a few times a month and have noticed before that if I start it up after it's been sitting I get the top end rattle.
Pulling the #29 fuse, as outlined on this forum, and cranking it a couple of times for 7 or 8 seconds a time to get oil pressure up means a quiet start once the fuse is replaced.
It's a bit of a faff, so I decided to hook up a switched circuit for fuse 29.
Not the best looking end where the circuit plugs into the fuse location, but I works and is secure.
I hacked up a fuse to the solder the wires to it as using spade connectors was too loosey goosey.
Circuit has an inline fuse holder, then the switch is mounted in a hidden location.
Works a treat and means I can just get in the car and close the door, flick the switch go through the cranking process then hit the switch again for the proper start.
Anyway for reference if anyone wanted to try the same thing.
I drive my 6 only a few times a month and have noticed before that if I start it up after it's been sitting I get the top end rattle.
Pulling the #29 fuse, as outlined on this forum, and cranking it a couple of times for 7 or 8 seconds a time to get oil pressure up means a quiet start once the fuse is replaced.
It's a bit of a faff, so I decided to hook up a switched circuit for fuse 29.
Not the best looking end where the circuit plugs into the fuse location, but I works and is secure.
I hacked up a fuse to the solder the wires to it as using spade connectors was too loosey goosey.
Circuit has an inline fuse holder, then the switch is mounted in a hidden location.
Works a treat and means I can just get in the car and close the door, flick the switch go through the cranking process then hit the switch again for the proper start.
Anyway for reference if anyone wanted to try the same thing.