Project, they all are...

[Felix2566]

Yes, that air temp sensor was in its position in the oil cooler shroud.
I found some unused clips on the inside of the crash bar that seem to work well holding it in place.
Thanks though

[Felix2566]

Finally looks like my Wagon can go and get an MOT.
Steering rack is back in and appears to be working properly. Will need to tracking doing for it all ro feel 100%. All new inner and outer tie rods. Drove it around the yard a fair bit and all seems to be holding fluid. Might have had a touch too much toe in before I drove it, adjusted them roughly parallel for the moment.

Have got the F125 mission match error code, so I'm guessing that will need changing too. But doesnt seem to be affecting it right now. If any one has got a spare one they would like to sell, happy with one of the copies.

Hopefully road worthy in the next week or so!

[Felix2566]

Failed the mot on a few bits, sorted them all over the weekend. Main job was to replace the F125 sensor.
I'd read a few guides and decided to take the path of least resistance as I'd already spent way too much time and effort on this car.

Had a look at the wing off the side of the gearbox mount, recip saw and a while later enough of it was off to allow the sensor to be winkled off. I also cut what was protruding past the outside of the sensor off the splined shaft. To make it shorter. Helped to get the sensor off easier. The 2 torx screws holding it on were impossible to get out with a torx bit and holder, so luckily big pair of knipex got them undone. All of it is such a crap design.

Replaced the screws with normal hex heads which means I can now use a ring spanner. Should be a 10 minute job to swap the sensor over.

I bought 2 off Aliexpress. Miscompare code has gone after fitting the new one, all seems to be working fine. Normally I'm not a fan of buying cheap components, but from reading other peoples experiences of genuine ones not lasting that long, I couldn't justify spending over 300 for one, when I could buy 2 including shipping for 60£.

I still have one issue with the car currently which is neither of the 2 keys will remotely unlock the car. I can donit manually, but it then sometimes dreadlocks the passenger doors. If I clear the error codes I can open and close them all via the switch on the door.

[Felix2566]

Back for a retest this morning and all past, can tax it and take it for tracking and then get some miles on it hopefully!!

[steve2003rs6]

Nice work felix and a good write up.
Do you want to do another one ?????!

[Shoppinit]

Nice job. This seems like the way forward.

[Felix2566]

Getting there finally, seems to be staying code free for the time being which is a nice change.

@shoppinit, have you ever paired keys to the car when the remote is not working, I've changed the battery in the fob and still no change.

@steve, haha once I have my lift installed at the barn jobs will be way easier to do. The complexity of these cars makes it hardly worth paying a garage to work on them as you'd quickly spend more than the value of the car. Luckily I have the time and tools to do pretty much all the jobs on my cars, wouldnt be able to afford them unless I did the work myself.

Very happy to have it fixed and back on the road, can see how easily they can get broken for parts which is sad. Once the faults list gets too long people will be put off keeping them going.

[Shoppinit]

Yeah, I’ve done it a few times on other people’s cars. Use the Vagcom. Delete the existing keys and reprogram the new ones. It’s pretty straight forward. There a procedure on the rosstech wiki.

[Felix2566]

Thanks will give it a go on the weekend. Be nice to get that last thing sorted and ticked off the list.

[Felix2566]

Going to try and tackle the key/immobiliser issue. Does any one know which variant of we have on our cars. From reading on the Ross Tech Wiki site, looks line V2.
Thanks

[Shoppinit]

It'll be immo III. But you don't need to mess with the immobiliser. You only need to dialogue with the CCM.

[Felix2566]

Oh ok. Thanks Shop.

[Shoppinit]

Also, I advise replacing the battery in the fob with a new, reputable-brand one (usually Energizer for me). I don't touch cheapo, no-brand ones any more. Sometimes they will give 3+ volts but no current, even when new, so your device doesn't function properly but you don't know why.

[Felix2566]

Battery in the fob is new.
Was able to get it to work after playing with the legs on the battery holder. But after swapping the battery to the other fob I cant get it to work agian .
At least it's not the module, I took it out. There is no sign of water damage to the board.

[Felix2566]

Used the RS6 all weekend and covered over 300 miles. Had no issues, not checked for any codes. But seemed to be all working happily enough, sometimes the box seems hesitant to change gear at full throttle, almost like it gets to where it should change and then hangs and then eventually changes. Not too worried as I have the majority of the bits to do a manual conversion.
Key fob decided it was now going to work properly, no idea why it was playing up, but happy it's all operating well.
Will keep using it as much as I can on the weekends to get some miles on it.