RS4 Engine Rebuild for big power using a Garrett Kit

Post by **Andiroo** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 8:51 pm

Lol mate

2871R's should be good for 350bhp each IMHO, be really interesting to see how your build comes on mate.

Cheers,

Andiroo

Post by **dummi** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:44 am

viperbl wrote: I have secured a GT2871R kit, I think its the right size of turbo, I hope its not too laggy, but again, proper cams should help combat this if it does end up being ...

you going to get some custom cams?

Post by **viperbl** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:16 pm

dummi wrote:you going to get some custom cams?

That is the plan, but I think I will need to run it on stock RS4 cams until I can afford a custom set ... be good to benchmark the two anyways ...

Ok, getting there, 3 pistons out and just taking the crank out now ... quick question for any experts out there ... see on the next picture I am think I need to remove the spline bolt from the crank, as you see I am about to do this, is this correct????

There seem to be some scratches on the crank, I can see the "main" grooves, but there do seem to be some that are not consistent ... anything to worried about???

And the RS4 heads ...

Post by **dummi** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:19 pm

use a spline socket its not a gear

Post by **rolskii** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:56 pm

As dummi states - socket - big old bar - crank locked/block held ... unless you got impact tools ... or you'll be pulling it all night ....

Post by **viperbl** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:06 pm

Cheers guys!

Crank locking tool should be coming from mr walker tomorrow I hope, so will wait for that I think!

Does anyone know what the thickness of the big end shells should be? max and min thickness???

Post by **musty1** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 6:51 pm

I would replace the shells as you have it open already also use sputter shells for the conrods in layman terms use the rs4 upper shell for both bottom and top. good luck rich seems you going to get there before I do let me know if you need anything

Post by **viperbl** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:07 pm

musty1 wrote:I would replace the shells as you have it open already also use sputter shells for the conrods in layman terms use the rs4 upper shell for both bottom and top. good luck rich seems you going to get there before I do let me know if you need anything

Cheers mate, I have S4 Pauter rods, says on the box as well "Without EDM", which, I think is an oil hole? anyway, think I need the S4 shells for these....

Post by **viperbl** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:29 pm

Can someone just confirm I am doing this right please??!?!

Where is says "1" I have put the crank locking tool?
Where is says "2" I am going to turn this anti clockwise to release the nut, and then take out the crank.

Does this look ok?? The nut must just be VERY stiff!! where is the large breaker bar!

Post by **s4woody** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:51 pm

the nut is very tight if its never been off..

Post by **g60bv** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:37 pm

how may miles had that engine done. interesting to see the bore wear. etc

Post by **viperbl** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:41 pm

g60bv wrote:how may miles had that engine done. interesting to see the bore wear. etc

Around 40k ...

Ok, got that bolt off, wow, that took some pullin!

Now, I have got the first "bar" that holds the crank in place out, but I can't see how to get a "grip" on the other bars to get them out ...

How about that screw in the top of it, maybe put a screw in there and use the plunger thing you can use to "knock" things out, don't know the name of it!

Post by **jimbo1234567** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:43 pm

do you mean a slide hammer?

Post by **viperbl** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:14 pm

Aye jimbo, slide hammer! thats what I am thinking I may need???

Post by **viperbl** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:02 pm

Would I be correct in saying that the sump does not have a gasket, but instead they use gasket seal??

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RS4 Engine Rebuild for big power using a Garrett Kit

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