Hi guys, I'll hopefully be going to look at an RS2 on Sunday for a mate. It seems reasonably priced (7.5k) and reasonable miles (95k) I've HPi'd the car at work this morning with nothing showing other than a couple of personal plates. Are there any specific items I need to check on this model?
Thanks in advance
John
Going to look at an RS2 on sunday...
RE: Going to look at an RS2 on sunday...
Blue smoke, white smoke, drive line shunt, uneven tyre wear and the related pulling to one side. Does it pull really, really strongly and evenly from 3500 rpm? Is the gearchange sweet? Hand brake, door bottoms and how is the trim sitting? And all the regular stuff for cars for local people.
Check how the history reads. Are there bills to match the stamps in the book?
Check how the history reads. Are there bills to match the stamps in the book?
RE: Going to look at an RS2 on sunday...
Has there been lots and lots of money spent on it!!!!!!! 
RE: Going to look at an RS2 on sunday...
I'm in Cornwall, the cars in London. Its in a "rare" I've been told, amethyst grey pearl? Yes LHD, reg no M***UMO Anyone know it? It's only on its 3rd owner. Thanks for the pointers chaps, keep the info coming. Can anyone tell me why some cars are up for 7k+more than others? Obviously condition is a factor, but double the price?
John
John
I am no mechanic or specialist but...try and get a good look at the underneath. Although the body is galvanised the underside suspension and other parts such as sub frames etc may be showing rust due to age. Also if the brakes/calipers/pads are looking tired you may be in for a £2k + bill. Air con is another area. Can be expensive to sort if water has penetrated the system. Check that it has the correct tyres on it, again £500 to correct.
As already posted the car should pull strongly from @3500rpm, mine changes sounds/vibrates at around 5500rpm (I think this is because it is a 5 cylinder) and then hits the sweet spot as it runs past 7000rpm and I change at 7500rpm as I dont seem to have a limiter.
I bought one in January which needs work and key to it all is knowing a specialist mechanic who can make you a few special concessions! and vag.com for cheaper Audi parts.
Main thing is gut feel. If it looks good and feels good, then marry her, err I mean buy one!
As already posted the car should pull strongly from @3500rpm, mine changes sounds/vibrates at around 5500rpm (I think this is because it is a 5 cylinder) and then hits the sweet spot as it runs past 7000rpm and I change at 7500rpm as I dont seem to have a limiter.
I bought one in January which needs work and key to it all is knowing a specialist mechanic who can make you a few special concessions! and vag.com for cheaper Audi parts.
Main thing is gut feel. If it looks good and feels good, then marry her, err I mean buy one!
-
scillyisles
- 3rd Gear
- Posts: 328
- Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 9:31 pm
- Location: uk
As probably one of the few owners on here who has owned an RS2 since it was built for me in 1995 I can perhaps comment on those areas to check.
- brakes - the standard brakes or the uprated brakes corrode easily and replacements cost a fortune. This area alone represents the most expensive item when I look at all my receipts. The brake pressure regulator can also be a source of expenditure.
- air con - the air con pipe where it goes behind the exhaust manfold often corrodes and leaks . The union nut is also a source of leaks. Replacement part is about £90+VAT.
- tyres - some people still seem to be unaware that it is dangerous to run modern 245/40ZR17 tyres on the OEM 7" RS2 rims. Replacing 5 tyres with correct 225/45ZR17 will cost you approx £500.
- lower door trim protection strips fastenings corrode internally - you can see this as slight bump on door strip. Replacements can be obtained from Vagparts etc.
- front suspension (top mounts in particular) do not last long and need replacement. Go for uprated top mounts (VAG parts have them) which last that little bit longer. Most cars of this age will be on at least their second set of shock absorbers so check for shock absorber leaks etc. Some cars have forged suspension components whilst others have pressed steel. Corrosion should not be a problem with either.
Front brakes have wind deflectors fitted on lower front suspension arms which can often come loose.
- napa leather trim on seats (if full leather is fitted) The napa leather Audi used was very good quality but is prone to cracking due to losing essential oils. Seats can be rejuvenated with Leatherique which brings them back as new. Front drivers seat normally has a stretch crease caused by drivers left leg changing gear.
- early cars had a different gearbox which had weak syncromesh into 2nd.
- car should not be showing any signs of rust as the body was fully galvanised.
- as others have said turbo should kick in over 3500 rpm when the car flies all the way to the rev limiter.
- oil pressure should be above 1.8 bar of higher on tickover and should rise to full 4bar+ when accelerator is depressed. Engine might be slightly tappety on idle depending on grade of oil in engine. I have used Mobil 1 exclusively in my car since new - currently run 15W50W variant. After the car has been stood for a few weeks without running then I might get a slight puff of oil smoke on startup which quickly disappears. Oil consumption on mine is very low - does not require any topups between services.
- fuel consumption varies - in heavy traffic you are looking at 18mpg, my average over the life of the car seems to be about 22 mpg whilst cruising on motorways at 75mph or so will see 27/28mpg.
- Interior trim - very hard wearing (except napa leather seats) build quality was second to none and all components should work. I have had zero problems with the interior trim.
- battery is in rear lugggage compartment. Replacement seems to be a Porsche part as are some other parts such as front indicator. Batteries last about 4/5 years.
- crash damage - look for front cross member damage behind front grille.
- uneven running often caused by dirty idle stabilisation valve.
- brakes - the standard brakes or the uprated brakes corrode easily and replacements cost a fortune. This area alone represents the most expensive item when I look at all my receipts. The brake pressure regulator can also be a source of expenditure.
- air con - the air con pipe where it goes behind the exhaust manfold often corrodes and leaks . The union nut is also a source of leaks. Replacement part is about £90+VAT.
- tyres - some people still seem to be unaware that it is dangerous to run modern 245/40ZR17 tyres on the OEM 7" RS2 rims. Replacing 5 tyres with correct 225/45ZR17 will cost you approx £500.
- lower door trim protection strips fastenings corrode internally - you can see this as slight bump on door strip. Replacements can be obtained from Vagparts etc.
- front suspension (top mounts in particular) do not last long and need replacement. Go for uprated top mounts (VAG parts have them) which last that little bit longer. Most cars of this age will be on at least their second set of shock absorbers so check for shock absorber leaks etc. Some cars have forged suspension components whilst others have pressed steel. Corrosion should not be a problem with either.
Front brakes have wind deflectors fitted on lower front suspension arms which can often come loose.
- napa leather trim on seats (if full leather is fitted) The napa leather Audi used was very good quality but is prone to cracking due to losing essential oils. Seats can be rejuvenated with Leatherique which brings them back as new. Front drivers seat normally has a stretch crease caused by drivers left leg changing gear.
- early cars had a different gearbox which had weak syncromesh into 2nd.
- car should not be showing any signs of rust as the body was fully galvanised.
- as others have said turbo should kick in over 3500 rpm when the car flies all the way to the rev limiter.
- oil pressure should be above 1.8 bar of higher on tickover and should rise to full 4bar+ when accelerator is depressed. Engine might be slightly tappety on idle depending on grade of oil in engine. I have used Mobil 1 exclusively in my car since new - currently run 15W50W variant. After the car has been stood for a few weeks without running then I might get a slight puff of oil smoke on startup which quickly disappears. Oil consumption on mine is very low - does not require any topups between services.
- fuel consumption varies - in heavy traffic you are looking at 18mpg, my average over the life of the car seems to be about 22 mpg whilst cruising on motorways at 75mph or so will see 27/28mpg.
- Interior trim - very hard wearing (except napa leather seats) build quality was second to none and all components should work. I have had zero problems with the interior trim.
- battery is in rear lugggage compartment. Replacement seems to be a Porsche part as are some other parts such as front indicator. Batteries last about 4/5 years.
- crash damage - look for front cross member damage behind front grille.
- uneven running often caused by dirty idle stabilisation valve.
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