RS6 Steering Wheel Module Coding

[GardinerG]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone have the correct 3 spoke RS6 tippy wheel coding for the steering module (16)? 01012 etc.

I have replaced the 4 spoke wheel and airbag (and reconnected) all the connections but I'm not sure of the coding for the RS6, it seems to be different than what I would expect (from the VAG-COM label file)!

Ta

G

[skiwi]

by replacing the mftw, you no longer have access to the steering wheel module (module 16) i.e. it is no longer relevant. quite frankly, the 3-spoke is a far better wheel, and the tip levers are excellent, but there are a number of functions that are unique to the mfsw, that the 3-spoke can't do. obviously audio controls, but also voice activation of a cellphone through the bt module. to get access to these functions for my bt handsfree, i have considered changing to the mfsw - however due to the controllers required it is a major piece of work.

do you have an rns-e or a symphony radio - these units have to be coded for the type of wheel?

assuming the rns-e the last coding digit is relevant:

1 - no tv-tuner, cd-changer or multi-function steering wheel
2 - tv-tuner installed
3 - cd-changer installed
4 - tv-tuner and cd-changer installed
5 - multi-function steering wheel installed
6 - tv-tuner and multi-function steering wheel installed
7 - cd-changer and multi-function steering wheel installed
8 - tv-tuner, cd-changer and multi-function steering wheel installed

also need to code the bt module. this is the 4th digit of the bt coding, and should be 0 (no mfsw).

[GardinerG]

Sorry skiwi, I don't follow you. I have module 16 still available, but the paddles aren't working - I assume because of it's coding. FWIW I have the RNS-D, CD changer, TV and no bluetooth (and no voice control module).

The tippy buttons worked on the 4 spoke but paddles on the 3 spoke don't. Is there something I am missing here?

Grant

[GardinerG]

Ok from looking at ETKA I may not need module 16 at all, but then why would the tippy paddles not be working as they are both RS6 wheels....

Help!

G

[skiwi]

module 16 can no longer do anything for you (as you don't have the controls on the steering wheel). i believe that you will (1) need to disable it, or (2) remove it in the rns-d coding as the tip will be expecting the paddle commands to be send from the mfsw module.

try option #2: you will need to change the adaption on channel 7 - remove "2" (mfsw present) from whatever the value is.

[GardinerG]

The wiring is physically different as are the contacts on the slip ring. I'm going to try replacing this with the correct one for the wheel, then change the wiring if required. I can always use the http://www.audiworld.com/tech/int38.shtml if I need it.

Slip ring connections on the 4 spoke wheel:
Black connection = 2 pins in use (2&3)
Yellow (airbag) connection = 5 pins in use

On the 3 spoke wheel:
Black connection = 4 pins in use (1-4 inclusive)
Yellow connection = 2 pins in use

Working out what wiring I need is tricky as I don't have the wiring info for the 03' RS6 wheel options and as the wheel no longer uses the E221 module (actually in the 4 spoke wheel).

Thanks for your pointers on the steering module tho!

[skiwi]

looking at the wiring diagrams, the tip for both wheels is supplied by the steering wheel controller, and both use the same connections to the tcu (unsurprisingly). however the wiring between the tcu and mfws cu isn't clear. in the 3-spoke, the tip is terminated in a 5-pin black plug. for the mfsw, all you are shown is the use of pins 7 & 11 for up and down - and no slip ring connections.

suggestion - have you got bob hawtin's how-to on retro-fitting a mfsw to a c5? this might be a useful reference for you even through you are going the other way. i think it is posted on navplus.us ..

[GardinerG]

I've been speaking to a few others on this and doing more background reading (Bob Hawtin etc). When looking at the slip ring the pins that aren't in use do NOT have pins on the slip ring - they are blank. This means that 2 of the 4 required connections aren't being used. Without rewiring the slip ring - which I think would be a real PITA, I'm going to get the RS6 3 spoke slip ring and compare the 2. It will then either work or I will need to change the wiring behind the new slip ring (T5d/h) IIRC.

The only prob is the cost of the slip ring. I am after audi part number 1J0 959 654 M if anyone can help.

CheeRS!

[GardinerG]

Right, an update on this thread. I finally took the dash appart and investigated the wiring. The double relay sized steering wheel control module J453 is not used when replacing the 4 spoke MFSW with a 3 spoke paddle tippy and to make wiring easy remove it (labelled 618. under the dash).

If you go ahead with this on the *RS6* you will need to do the following:
1. Replace the slip ring with the 3 spoke one (designed for non CAN bus wheels). There are not enough pins in the T5h on the 4 spoke one for this to work. p/n 1J0 959 654 M
2. wire 3 connections from the old relay socket under the dash, to a new (or 2nd hand T5h connection 4B0 973 605). This plugs directly into the slip ring.
T5h1 - pin7 of old J453 socket. (miniature spade)
T5h2 - pin2 of old J453 socket. (normal spade)
T5h3 - pin11 of old J453 socket. (normal spade)
T5h4 - not required.
The 4th connection is for wheel illumination for wheels with the buttons not the paddles.
3. Once this is done and it's all fitted, you MUST perform the steps listed here to set it up:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Aud ... sch_5.7%29
Make sure you have a WSC entered or it wont work.
Login: 07197
Code: 06697
*the above codes are for the RS6 ONLY!

Oh yes, and be careful when playing with the slip ring cuz it's really easy to lose your place or brake it (like I did!). The one I was playing with was 2nd hand luckily as they are NOT cheap when new. I've tested the paddles in that they now work, but I've had to revert back until I get a replacement slip ring.

HTH

[GardinerG]

All sorted, and didn't actually take long to do (apart from all the research), couple of hours at most.

Those Ross-Tech guys know what they are doing! Once you have finished their steps, the Big Red (!) Warning will go away and you will then need to take for a short test drive to reset the ABS. The dash yellow (ABS) warning symbol will go once this is done if everything had been done correctly.

[skiwi]

thanks for the update. i've debated going the other way simpy to get better voice functionality, what are you impressions of losing that in exchange for the paddles?

[GardinerG]

With the Phatbox the MFSW only really offered next and back track selection. Volume was useful, but then the volume knob is only a little further away The tippy buttons were rubbish, for want of a stronger word. Left should have been minus, Right should have been plus, using rocker switches didn't get on with me. The paddles are in a more natural postion and help me control the car.

G

[R1NGA]

Grant,

Reading about your success with this has convinced me to take the plunge now! Can you confrm though, that you still have Tip-on-Demand functionality, ie: a flick of the paddle when in Drive still over-rides full auto for a while and allows you to use paddles as appropriate, only to switch back to full auto after a timeout and when going straight/flat etc?

and just how much were those slipper rings new?

Many thanks - massively useful post Sir!

Regards,

Phil G

[GardinerG]

Hi Phil, Yes the tip on demand works great . Doesn't like changing up gear too much when belting round tight corners but I think this is by design!

I was playing this morning and although I tried to upshift on going round a corner what actually happend was that she queued my request until I was going straigher.... from 1st to 3rd. I think people wondered what the hell I was doing (pulling out from a T-junction with 5k+rpm in 1st)

Anyway, it doesn't matter if you are in S or D it will change up or down when you flick the paddles. If the stick is in the manual gate then it will behave sequentially. It will downshift at low rpms although I haven't tried redline upshift yet.

Slip rings are £180 ish, speak to S4Woody or VAGParts for a slight reduction (or to get them posted to you!). New rings have a plug (oh er) that stops them turning! Um, you will also need the T5H plug I mentioned that goes in the back and 3 female connectors. Easiest way is to find a '6 at the breakers and get this - speak to Grizz he might have one. You could canabalise the old one on your car, but I can't remember if you will need an extra female pin or not (probably). I've left mine in just in case I change my mind (or it didn't work)!

Ebahn gives excellent instructions for disassembly of the column. Prepping the wiring takes longer than stripping down and putting back together IMHO, but it is really easy.

BTW, the tip-on-demand functionality can be disabled using VAG-COM on the Gearbox ECU (and was done by some people who used to accidentally press the buttons on the steering wheels), in this case it would only work when the stick was set to manual. Of course this can be reversed too. See Elsawin bulletin 3735 Automatic Gearbox for info.

(p.s. sorry for the long post!)

HTH

Grant

[R1NGA]

Folks,

Having taken onboard all this good information regarding the swapover procedure, I do not feel confident enough to steam in and do it myself! To that end I asked my previously helpful local dealer (Crawley Audi) to do the switch-over for me. They have 3 resident Master-Techs, I have the wheel, wiring and an airbag unit, they have a parts dept for the slipper ring and stretch bolt and I was confident...

.... they just rang to say that their management and Master-Techs are not willing to take on the job as it's not something that Audi UK could condone and therefore if something happened.... liability....personal safety.... yadda yadda yadda. So I am back at square one again.

So my question - can anyone recommend an Audi dealer that has the gumption and customer focus to be able to affect this change for me, or is there anyone else out there who could give me some hands-on assistance in fitting this new wheel (handsomely reward available of course!)? I am near Guildford in Surrey, but willing to travel. Might your recommended folks at Camberley Audi be willing and able do you think?

I will need the parts mentioned here (slipper ring, T5H plugs and connectors etc) and am willing to order them up front if someone has the correct part numbers. Unless there are any s/hand ones lurking that anyone knows about.

Many Thanks,

Phil G