Lost the kick at 5000 rpm

[ArthurPE]

I crave no support, that is your SOP
and since when did being 'wrong' stop you? you insult all equally
Me, P_G, Dave, Germans, etc. anyone who differs in opinon

you are always the 'victim', a martyr

instead of saying 'no more', why not contribute?
what's your take on the data logs?
both cars have deposits...but timing and mixture are perfect

Art, It's wrong for you to bring your disagreements with me to this thread in an attempt to garner support. What I said was in light banter (in view of on-going GTR thread at present) with 2manytoys, and no diversion intended. I shall say no more on this thread.

[neckarsulm]

My airbox flap isnt closing fully any ideas?

Watch this space...

Right, thanks SilverRS4 let me be clearer - the flap was stuck OPEN!

I have since removed the airbox (wow that was fun, undid 2 bolts I could get to on headlamp and coil loom, ELSA made it look like it just lifted out ) and I have removed the pesky flap and it's diaphragm from the airbox and I am now going to lube it etc I have reattached it to the vac pipe so I can test it on car.

Surprised I didn't break it trying to get the bottom of the air box out.

Also at 32000 miles and one service, my air filter is original and a bit dirty so will change that and gte some new data.

Thanks for your help!

[ArthurPE]

I 'polished' mine and applied some lithium to the flap axis and the actuator linkage...just a bit, grease with grit is worse than no grease at all...

the flap is an odd design, the inlet tube is the 'stop' (flap OD > tube ID), so it tends to jam/bind...not sure why they didn't mold a stop in the tube and make the flap OD < tube ID...that imo would decrease to chances of 'sticking'....it would be an easy mod with the box removed
glue some stops in, whittle the flapper OD down

Neckarsulm: The position of the flap with no vacuum is normally closed. So you are saying that during the function test that its not opening all the way? If it was stuck closed, you wouldn't see any drastic problems with IAT at full throttle, but you may be hurting mass flow at higher rpm's. If its stuck open, then yes, I'd say IAT's would tend to almost always be higher than they need to be. For example, when the car is moving at slow speeds, the engine is drawing in a fair amount of air from the engine compartment and the entire inlet system, including the tube the mass-air / IAT sensor is mounted to, gets heat soaked even more than it would normally.

In any case, a sticky flap would indicate that its not closing all the way and thats not good either. Time for emery cloth and a decent lubricant. You should be able to cycle the flap 15-20 times fully open and closed during the function test before your vacuum reserves deplete to make sure it moves smoothly. Good luck.

[ArthurPE]

an airfilter can make a big difference...

side story, last week:
I had a 20HP Roots aeration blower...
rated amps ~49, was reading 58, ~ 24HP, overloaded
discharge pressure was 4, my calcs said it should be at 5.5/17HP/40A
motor speed ~ 1760
blower speed ~2100

looking at the blower curves it said the pressure should be >8 psi (gauge read 4!) at that HP
after scratching my head, I had him change the inlet filter:
P 5.5 psi
17 HP
40A

the filter had > 2.5 psi of drop! and sucked up 7 HP, ~25% of the load
this alone will reduce the power bill by $450/month...
my guy sent a camera pic

Watch this space...

Right, thanks SilverRS4 let me be clearer - the flap was stuck OPEN!

I have since removed the airbox (wow that was fun, undid 2 bolts I could get to on headlamp and coil loom, ELSA made it look like it just lifted out ) and I have removed the pesky flap and it's diaphragm from the airbox and I am now going to lube it etc I have reattached it to the vac pipe so I can test it on car.

Surprised I didn't break it trying to get the bottom of the air box out.

Also at 32000 miles and one service, my air filter is original and a bit dirty so will change that and gte some new data.

Thanks for your help!

[neckarsulm]

Thanks Arthur, I wondered why SilverRS4 said use emery and then I realised;
Once lubed 9/10 of the flap would close by itself when it had been opened by hand but the other time it would stick open which was no good.
I then noticed how the flap on one side was making contact with the body and this was causing it to stick.
I used a metal file (all I had) and took a bit off (prob too much!) and it's perfect now.
Just got to squeeze the air box base back in without breaking the protuding flap mech!

To run engine in order to get vacuum up for output tests with airbox out I just reconnected maf/air box top to the intake pipe and rested it on top of the air filter which was onto of the headlamp (ish) after reconnecting coils.
Worked OK and gave as stated by SilverRs4 around 15 operations of the flap before vacuum got depleted and the flap would only partly open.

[lengster1]

This could be my problem also,Doug said mine was pulsing but not fully closing,heres hoping a fettle and lube will resolve it.

[ArthurPE]

good job
a little gap won't hurt anything...

patience

Thanks Arthur, I wondered why SilverRS4 said use emery and then I realised;
Once lubed 9/10 of the flap would close by itself when it had been opened by hand but the other time it would stick open which was no good.
I then noticed how the flap on one side was making contact with the body and this was causing it to stick.
I used a metal file (all I had) and took a bit off (prob too much!) and it's perfect now.
Just got to squeeze the air box base back in without breaking the protuding flap mech!

To run engine in order to get vacuum up for output tests with airbox out I just reconnected maf/air box top to the intake pipe and rested it on top of the air filter which was onto of the headlamp (ish) after reconnecting coils.
Worked OK and gave as stated by SilverRs4 around 15 operations of the flap before vacuum got depleted and the flap would only partly open.

[neckarsulm]

Lengster, pulsing sounds about right.
It's not a hard job to take it out and sort it as above apart from getting the air box base out and I have just found back in.
Any tips anyone?
Can you remove the headlight? I didn't have long enough T30 to loosen (not undo!) the outer of the 3 bolts
Just done an output test with everything reassembled and the flap is rotating through 90 degrees now, alas the roads are wet and my baby has just been cleaned so data logs will have to wait

[lengster1]

The outer of the 3 bolts is a bugger,if you use 1/4 drive extension bars you are lucky to get it through the hole and over the torx enough to pick up,long series torx set would be ideal,i did my headlight egg yokes at same time bumper was off for oil cooler (sore subject) so im not sure from memory if you can get headlight out without removing bumper,im pretty sure you cant thinking about it!

[magpie2k]

last week i had the engine management light come on. took it to the dealer straight away driving like mary poppins. they said they couldn't look at it as they were too busy. I had to use the car that day (long journey) and they wanted me to leave it all day to have a look. after asking if they could just have a quick look (was 8.20am) i was told it can take 45minutes to 3hrs to run diagnostics i dug my heals in and mentioned priority on RS model cars with Audi so could she find me a audi garage to take the car to. the engineer then came out and 5 minutes later came back after running checks and said its showing as the inlet valve error. he reset the error but after driving but i noticed the kick had gone at 5k. its back in tomorrow to have it looked at hopefully fixed and not the usual 4pm rush job and a revisit....

[P_G]

Did he give you a fault code associated with the inlet problem?

[magpie2k]

no, i called back later after reading this post and asked if they keep a record of fault codes before/after resetting and was told no.

the coffee in service reception was also of poor quality.

[ArthurPE]

no, i called back later after reading this post and asked if they keep a record of fault codes before/after resetting and was told no.

the coffee in service reception was also of poor quality.

not recording that code into the cars service file is bad practice...
it helps to see if it repeats or a pattern emerges...

[magpie2k]

my thoughts also.

my personal experience of garages, mainly VW but also BMW and Audi in the whole has been pants. unless you know the service manager i guess you're like all the other chumps who need their car looked at.

i've had better service from independents

[P_G]

no, i called back later after reading this post and asked if they keep a record of fault codes before/after resetting and was told no.

the coffee in service reception was also of poor quality.

Newcastle or Tyneside?