Front discs & pads

4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 450 bhp
4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 480 bhp (plus)
srichards
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Wed Oct 31, 2018 10:42 am

I'd look at Autodoc.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/bra ... s6-quattro

There are a few different zimmerman ones. Plain, drilled a bit and drilled to buggery to choose from.

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:08 pm

I'm not sure if it's just ECP that are discontinuing them, or if Zimmerman are. However, in addition to autodoc as an option, I've just bought a set for "stock" in from germany:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182852246241
Landed price was more or less the same as the 50% discount ECP price.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"

Gripper1
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Gripper1 » Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:33 pm

I think they know with the discount and with their overheads they are selling at a loss. I saw the eBay ones and like you say virtually the same price.

What I'd love to do when I get time and the right source material is to see what other discs with the right spacers/adaptors could possibly do the front of the RS6.

I know the Phaeton discs are a good substitute for the rear, but no one has done a cheaper option for the fronts.
When Porsche GT2 discs are cheaper than ours, then you know we are getting our pants pulled down.

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by ahoooga » Tue Nov 13, 2018 7:44 pm

Eurocartarts latest.
Email tells you "Email Subscriber Exclusive" Black Friday early access. Prices will NOT be lower on the day !
Use code EARLY for 50% off brakes.

so you go and look, and all they have is Pagid rears left and right , at £924.99 for left and £884.99 for right even with 50% off , do they think ANYONE will buy them ?
How the foook can they be different prices ( £50) for different sides

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Thu Nov 22, 2018 4:02 pm

Are there any disc and pad combos that don't disappear to nothing/become appalling and juddery in 2 or 3 years/ < 10,000 miles? I've had to replace the front brakes yet again. They were only done in 2016 and the car isn't used for track days. The rate of wear seems quite high to me. I'm used to cars, even heavy sporty cars, with brakes that last with the same usage for twice as long or more.

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Nov 22, 2018 4:40 pm

What pads are you using?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Thu Nov 22, 2018 5:37 pm

No idea what the previous t lot were at all. Doesn't say on the invoice. Which doesn't help much. I haven't got a paper invoice for the current lot yet. The discs were about £550 I think but the pad set was £80 so I'm guessing they use decent discs but el cheapo pads to be sacrificial. Discs are drilled so I'm assuming standard RS ones.

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Nov 22, 2018 6:03 pm

Crap pads will rely on friction over adherence to generate the braking force and this results in increased disk wear. Apparently.

Are you seeing the disks wear down to the minimum limit or a different problem?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Thu Nov 22, 2018 7:36 pm

I have no idea what you wrote there. I understood the words, but....
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"

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Shoppinit
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Shoppinit » Thu Nov 22, 2018 8:08 pm

Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

srichards
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Fri Nov 23, 2018 9:55 am

Shoppinit wrote:
Thu Nov 22, 2018 6:03 pm
Crap pads will rely on friction over adherence to generate the braking force and this results in increased disk wear. Apparently.

Are you seeing the disks wear down to the minimum limit or a different problem?
It's basically brake judder that becomes the problem. It gets to the point where you can feel the wheel wobble while driving and then then you brake the front wheels vibrate. It also starts to pull and squirrel about under braking. I have a new set on and it brakes perfectly, there's no vibration and no unbalanced wheel feeling while driving. Stops dead straight. The brake feel is also back to normal. It seems to go slightly soft.

I'm not sure which pads to try next as clearly the el cheapos are probably not the right ones. Most materials seem to be pitched at hard driving and not regular normal driving with the odd bit of late braking. I'm probably driving the car all wrong...

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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:23 am

Very interesting. Although - are we sure this is fact, rather than urban myth? All the articles are using the same words and re-quoting each other? But I couldn't find an actual technical study on it.

When I used to run outboard powered speedboats, everyone always said you needed to run 15psi water pressure to slow the water down a bit to allow it to absorb heat from the motor.
Utter utter <beep>. Because that water that has just gone out the tailpipe had been replaced with colder water - but they wouldn't hear otherwise.
Don't get me wrong, you do still need 15psi or you'd blow the motor (even if the water flow was perfectly adequate) - but just not for the reason anyone thought.
You needed the pressure to prevent localised hotspots boiling water in the head - and once the water's boiled, you lose cooling, so the hotspot gets hotter and you blow the motor. I gave up arguing the point in the end, it doesn't really matter as long as you run 15psi pressure (either thermostats or restrictor washers).
Shoppinit wrote:
Thu Nov 22, 2018 8:08 pm
Have a read of this:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-suppo ... ther-myths
Last edited by Mɐʇʇ on Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:42 am

It would be interesting to see what happened on a rolling road with various combinations of brake materials. A thermal imaging camera might be quite useful to use.

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Shoppinit
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by Shoppinit » Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:12 pm

Hard to be sure of the veracity of the info. It's a weird mix of physics and chemistry going on with the pads there, but the explanation kinda 'feels' right. What *is* sure is that the cheapo pads are pants. :)

I would recommend the OE pads. They are really good all-round pads and stand up to abuse, too. I like the DS2500 on the M3, but I have no idea what they'd be like on the RS6. Also, I don't think they are any cheaper than the OE pads, so I'd just go with those.

If you get brake judder, before chucking the brakes, try doing the bedding in procedure again. I find that this "fixes" what feels like warped disks. Although be wary of doing the bedding in procedure on cheap pads - they might not be up to it.

How do you stop a powerboat? Hit something?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

srichards
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Re: Front discs & pads

Post by srichards » Sat Nov 24, 2018 9:25 am

It's too late. Discs and pads are gone. Bedding in procedure is basically the average drive I have in the car. It's used for increased harder braking with a few faster stops. Made no difference at all to the judder. It was exactly the same after as before. I tried it with the old brakes. Still awful.

I'll find out whether the pads are OEM or not.

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