To Mod or Not To Mod...
In terms of ARB's, the H&R's are apparently stiffer than the Hotchkis ones and additional support brackets are available from MRC - changing the rear drop links is also advised. The car feels a lot more stable for it, even on stock suspension (for now).
Personally, I have been limiting mods to those which are easier to reverse, or would be easier to justify in a sale - if I was buying now I would happily take a well sorted stage 3 car with uprated brakes and suspension.
Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
Can't really comment on QST, having only spoken to them on the phone, but can vouch for the work MRC would do - theirs is also a custom remap done while you are driving.
Personally, I have been limiting mods to those which are easier to reverse, or would be easier to justify in a sale - if I was buying now I would happily take a well sorted stage 3 car with uprated brakes and suspension.
Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
Can't really comment on QST, having only spoken to them on the phone, but can vouch for the work MRC would do - theirs is also a custom remap done while you are driving.
i was under the impression that the hotchkiss ones were stiffer than the h&r's?graemep wrote:In terms of ARB's, the H&R's are apparently stiffer than the Hotchkis ones and additional support brackets are available from MRC - changing the rear drop links is also advised. The car feels a lot more stable for it, even on stock suspension (for now).
Personally, I have been limiting mods to those which are easier to reverse, or would be easier to justify in a sale - if I was buying now I would happily take a well sorted stage 3 car with uprated brakes and suspension.
Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
Can't really comment on QST, having only spoken to them on the phone, but can vouch for the work MRC would do - theirs is also a custom remap done while you are driving.
Volvo XC90
C7 - RS6
C6 - RS6
B5 - RS4
C7 - RS6
C6 - RS6
B5 - RS4
Gutting the pre-cats should only take an hour more than fitting the Milltek DP's as the originals have to come off anyway???graemep wrote: Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
https://www.speedcams.co.uk
B5 2.7t S4 - gone
B5 2.7t RS4 - gone
Ed 30 Golf DSG - gone
A5 3.0tdi - gone within 12 months!
S3 2.0 tfsi - 6+ years, but now sold
2018 Golf R 7.5
B5 2.7t S4 - gone
B5 2.7t RS4 - gone
Ed 30 Golf DSG - gone
A5 3.0tdi - gone within 12 months!
S3 2.0 tfsi - 6+ years, but now sold
2018 Golf R 7.5
me toortd wrote:i was under the impression that the hotchkiss ones were stiffer than the h&r's?graemep wrote:In terms of ARB's, the H&R's are apparently stiffer than the Hotchkis ones and additional support brackets are available from MRC - changing the rear drop links is also advised. The car feels a lot more stable for it, even on stock suspension (for now).
Personally, I have been limiting mods to those which are easier to reverse, or would be easier to justify in a sale - if I was buying now I would happily take a well sorted stage 3 car with uprated brakes and suspension.
Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
Can't really comment on QST, having only spoken to them on the phone, but can vouch for the work MRC would do - theirs is also a custom remap done while you are driving.
the h&r are 32mm at front and 21mm at back
hotchkis extremes are 35mm at front and 22mm at back
http://www.avalonmotorsports.com/index. ... ucts_id=84
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/ ... ct=3815858
as mentioned you have to buy the support brackets for the h&r's if you want to avoid subframe cracking, thats why the hotchkis are great value as these are included already
Thats what I was getting at hence "slightly more than upgrading the DP's", not suggesting it would be any quicker going the Milltek route. I got a bargain on the Milltek which was the only reason I didn't gut the precats on mine.Nige_RS4 wrote:Gutting the pre-cats should only take an hour more than fitting the Milltek DP's as the originals have to come off anyway???graemep wrote: Gutting the pre-cats is a common mod, but it is quite labour intensive (at least 5-6 hours), as it means removing and refitting the downpipes - slightly more than upgrading the DP's. I considered this option, but went with a full Milltek instead.
I recently got my H&R's off an outfit in Germany (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0158233886) Very quick delivery, great price and professional service.
Hotchikis are not as stiff as h&r on S4 or rs6 fitment.
S2 Coupe : S4 B5 WB : RS6 C5 : S4 B8 : R8 V8 Turbo : Q7 4.2 TDI
http://www.MRCtuning.com
http://www.facebook.com/mrctuning
http://www.MRCtuning.com
http://www.facebook.com/mrctuning
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 91 guests