Jukebox

[Anth]

Life surely can't be as simple as plugging the iPhone / iPod in to the usb and coping the required tracks to the jukebox !? Nope ... So does this have to download to the jukebox via CD or SD card?

[MikeFish]

Never used the jukebox. Doesn't it tell you how to use it in the manual? I thought it was from CD / DVD only but SD might work too.

I just have a couple of portable hard drives with all my music on plugged in under the armrest, job done.

[Afsimba]

Never seen point to it in my b8 Rs4 and haven’t entertained it in the 6 ! Just have two SD cards with about 1000; albums

[innercry666]

Easy to transfer from SD card to the Jukebox. On the RS4 the Jukebox sounded 'better' than the other sources with the B&O and presented the albums in the Jukebox format. Not seen as much of a difference with the Bose setup in the RS6 sound wise if anything at all, probably because the Bose sounds poor. As there is only 10GB to play with it feels like the setup in the A6 is a bit of cheap effort...

Has anybody managed to 'upgrade' any aspects of the Bose in the facelifted RS6's? I've seen sub changes make an improvement but I was thinking about pre-amps and power amps.

[MikeFish]

Easy to transfer from SD card to the Jukebox. On the RS4 the Jukebox sounded 'better' than the other sources with the B&O and presented the albums in the Jukebox format. Not seen as much of a difference with the Bose setup in the RS6 sound wise if anything at all, probably because the Bose sounds poor. As there is only 10GB to play with it feels like the setup in the A6 is a bit of cheap effort...

Has anybody managed to 'upgrade' any aspects of the Bose in the facelifted RS6's? I've seen sub changes make an improvement but I was thinking about pre-amps and power amps.

Yes, been looking long and hard at this. I have a sub in the boot which makes a big difference. But the big issue is that the digital signal from the MMI to the amplifier is in the later MOST150 format which there is currently no easy way to convert into a usable signal. So you will need to take the amplified output from the Bose and run through a processor then amplifier so far from ideal.
I've changed the tweeters to some high end ones with little benefit. I've changed the door pods from the bose to B&O as it is difficult to replace the bass speakers in the Bose pods. Note the B&O speakers sounded worse than the Bose when used with the res to the Bose system. I then changed the bass speakers for some high end ones. Still didn't sound better, needs some proper EQ. I've got the kids to change as well but need to make some adapters for them go fit the B&O pods.

However, before all of this I disconnected the centre chanel speaker in the dash and this made a big difference. Previously there was no stereo imagery, it was all muddled as the centre chanel was set very high. Disconnecting it brought back the stereo imagery and combined with the subwoofer and lossless flacs makes a pretty decent sound.
I'm currently trying to find a loom and bose amp to make some adapters to connect an aftermarket amp and processor for the 3 way speakers up front.

[Afsimba]

Way over my head this ! Talk amongst yourselves

[EmilA]

Easy to transfer from SD card to the Jukebox. On the RS4 the Jukebox sounded 'better' than the other sources with the B&O and presented the albums in the Jukebox format. Not seen as much of a difference with the Bose setup in the RS6 sound wise if anything at all, probably because the Bose sounds poor. As there is only 10GB to play with it feels like the setup in the A6 is a bit of cheap effort...

Has anybody managed to 'upgrade' any aspects of the Bose in the facelifted RS6's? I've seen sub changes make an improvement but I was thinking about pre-amps and power amps.

Yes, been looking long and hard at this. I have a sub in the boot which makes a big difference. But the big issue is that the digital signal from the MMI to the amplifier is in the later MOST150 format which there is currently no easy way to convert into a usable signal. So you will need to take the amplified output from the Bose and run through a processor then amplifier so far from ideal.
I've changed the tweeters to some high end ones with little benefit. I've changed the door pods from the bose to B&O as it is difficult to replace the bass speakers in the Bose pods. Note the B&O speakers sounded worse than the Bose when used with the res to the Bose system. I then changed the bass speakers for some high end ones. Still didn't sound better, needs some proper EQ. I've got the kids to change as well but need to make some adapters for them go fit the B&O pods.

However, before all of this I disconnected the centre chanel speaker in the dash and this made a big difference. Previously there was no stereo imagery, it was all muddled as the centre chanel was set very high. Disconnecting it brought back the stereo imagery and combined with the subwoofer and lossless flacs makes a pretty decent sound.
I'm currently trying to find a loom and bose amp to make some adapters to connect an aftermarket amp and processor for the 3 way speakers up front.

This makes sense to me! I saw you had wired in a Sub in the boot on your build thread, keen to know how you went ahead with his and did you just fit speaker replacements into the other areas too, and make adjustments to the male/female terminals as needed? Any diagrams on where I can do the same job, from reading above you used the car’s amp to run the sub?

An old Lexus GS300 many years back had a full Alpine system, went OTT but Type-R component speakers/sub and 2 Amps plus an EQ and power capacitor to run it all. I miss that sound system and would love to replicate it as close as I can.

[MikeFish]

For the sub, I used a high to low level converter to convert the speaker level inputs down to RCA levels to input into my sub amp. If you have an amp with high level inputs built in then this can obviously be bypassed.
Under the boot floor there is a little plug that connects into the factory sub. I unplugged this and connected some speaker wire into the plug using a couple of small blade crimps to push into the plug. The other end of the wire was connected to the high to low level converter. The converter also supplies a 12v signal when it can detect music being played through the speaker wires so I used this as my remote turn on for the sub amp.
The power for the converter was taken directly from the battery via a little fuse.
The power for the amp was taken from the battery in the boot using some distribution blocks. The dis blocks and amp are screwed onto an mdf board that lives under the floor of the boot.
Then just needed to run a set of wires from the amp up into the main boot compartment for the sub itself.
Obviously no way to easily filter the bass out of the door speakers so I turned the bass down on the MMI to stop them distorting and then adjusted the gain on the sub amp accordingly.
I later added a Phoenix Gold Bass CUBE to allow me adjust the bass in the front of the car independently of the car volume or bass. Once you disconnect the centre speaker this gives a pretty good improvement for minimal effort / cost.

The rest of it is where the effort and costs come from. I've replaced the front speakers for aftermarket ones. This was made eaiser as I said earlier by buying a set of B&O door speakers / pods. However, this hasn't improved the sound. I need to flatten / eq and then amplify the signal properly before hearing the benefit of the aftermarket speakers.

OP, sorry for going off topic!!

[EmilA]

Thank you Mike and sorry OP for going so far off topic. I’m focusing on my R33 GTR right now but in a few months i’ll have to visit my options on changing the sound system.
Really good insight there, I might PM you closer to the time