I have reached the limits of what I know so this is just conjecture:
I think the key here is that, as we know, many cars leave the factory with only an approximation of the correct geometry - and this may mean different tow-in (and other settings) on each side of the same axle. I imagine that all factory cars "crab" to a greater or lesser degree - just not enough to be noticeable.
The ACC is then aligned to the car as it stands on the alignment jig and the problems start from there. People like you (Mike) get your car properly sorted (and quite right, too) but then it has a knock-on effect, unfortunately.
To be sure you're ACC is still working correctly, it may help if you have the before and after geometry readings; as I mentioned, it is only 30 minutes or so to make a noticeable difference on ACC. If the adjustments were less than that then you should be fine, I guess.
My car was given a little slap on the nearside rear wheel by a double decker a while back, pushing the wheel slightly out of alignment - but not enough to justify a recalibration. I think they pulled the wheel back by 15 minutes, from memory. I am happy that my car still tracks vehicles round quite tight radii curves, so it's OK.
wheel alignment ACC?
Re: wheel alignment ACC?
Ok thanks. I have before and after readings. I'll dig them out tonight.
Re: wheel alignment ACC?
appears that to be on the safe side its prudent to get the systems recalibrated then?
Volvo XC90
C7 - RS6
C6 - RS6
B5 - RS4
C7 - RS6
C6 - RS6
B5 - RS4
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