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Hello group!

After owning an audi rs2 (tribute) for more than 15years ending up knowing the ins and outs of the car, mapping It myself and producing around 500hp I'm going to make the leap to the C6 scene.

After reading through gently about the car, I have a few options locally, from a genuine stock car to a few modded mtm versions.

I'm either considering a stock version with around 100 to 140k km on the clock and then going for wagner ICs and a map OR get a 730hp mtm version.

Questions.
Would an already modded mtm version have already overstressed the turbos and therefore might not be a good idea?

Other than the usual culprits oil gasket leak, smoking turbos, is there anything else to look out for?
I plan obviously a full inspection and compression test before buying.

Many thanks
Vas

Coolant pipes under the RH wheel arch. Other than that, it's a 10 year old car so under bonnet plastic pipes will be brittle if they've not already been replaced - some of the ribbed oil breather pipes on my car disintegrated the first time I touched them.

Perfect, good idea to check these too.

VaudiGR wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 18, 2021 8:52 am

Hello group!

After owning an audi rs2 (tribute) for more than 15years ending up knowing the ins and outs of the car, mapping It myself and producing around 500hp I'm going to make the leap to the C6 scene.

After reading through gently about the car, I have a few options locally, from a genuine stock car to a few modded mtm versions.

I'm either considering a stock version with around 100 to 140k km on the clock and then going for wagner ICs and a map OR get a 730hp mtm version.

Questions.
Would an already modded mtm version have already overstressed the turbos and therefore might not be a good idea?

Other than the usual culprits oil gasket leak, smoking turbos, is there anything else to look out for?
I plan obviously a full inspection and compression test before buying.

Many thanks
Vas

Hi and welcome to the C6 family! Compression test is a serious good idea, outer cilinders are fragile to overheating and cause piston ring/cilinder wall damage. Also check if the PCV is in 100% working order (some hoses can break or leak). I worked on one engine with a broken off PCV hose, just before the collector and this caused catastrophic failure since they just kept driving with it. If car has ceramics, check the ceramic wear indicators on the disks to see how far they have worn out. (Check google for images). Also just the pads - if ceramic will set your back 1100+ dollars for all 4 if they needs replacement original Audi.

Please also peek into the “V” of the 10 cilinder, between pipes of the air intake to see if there is oil on top there. Just like the o-ring, the head oil cooler also has rings that can dry out. I would recommend taking into consideration that almost all C6 need engine out jobs eventually, if this has not been done before with proof in form of pictures and invoices. Some have minor-minor leaks, some mayor - just like the dentist the chair is inevitable. Cheers from Holland! - oh and some pictures.

Some more (always fun to look at)

Wow thank you very much for all these photos.
I have now driven a sedan version which potentially has the 800hp mtm kit. However the greek mtm distributor is not easy to get hold of and word of mouth seems to suggest that he is not very trustworthy.

It will get an inspection from the audi dealers as well as my own and hopefully it will be OK.

Main selling point it has 46k km !!

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What's the type of gearbox oil to use other than the OEM?

Would anyone suggest 5w40 instead of 5w30 due to the Greek warmer climates?

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VaudiGR wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 01, 2021 4:03 pm

What's the type of gearbox oil to use other than the OEM?

Would anyone suggest 5w40 instead of 5w30 due to the Greek warmer climates?

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Putting engine oil in the gearbox would be catastrophic I would think.

Haha, those were 2 separate questions

I was asking about the spec of the gearbox oil as there are aftermarket alternatives that are usually better

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