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Hi All,

I was having a look round the car today & noticed when looking inside, just above the rear tyres that there's something not right, so i stuck the camera in & got a couple of photos. What part is this that looks like it's split / broken? It's the same on both sides. If i'm correct in thinking, It looks to be the shock absorber, but not sure whether it's a certain component of it that can be replaced, so whether it's a full shock replacement job. Any info would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Roy

The orange thing is the remains of the bump stop. They're a firm foam and as you can see, don't stand the test of time. I'll hunt out the part number for them as from what I remember the one I used when I ordered them was NLA. Changing them in situ is possible - it's a bit of a pain and rather awkward, but do-able. I did mine in an afternoon even though I had to replace a number of the blind fittings for the wheel arch cover.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info. Once they disintegrate, like mine have, do you need to change anything else at the same time, or just replace the actual bump stops themselves.

Cheers
Roy

The Bump Stop is item 20 on this page - http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_single/ ... g/e#sec_20



Part Number - 4F0512131G

Spot on...thanks Ian.

Yep, that's the part number on my invoice. It's the only part you need to replace (though I suspect Audi would insist that the bolts and nuts - parts 22 & 23 on the diagram should be replaced too).
I'd suggest a good stock of the plastic blind fittings N90821401 (can be picked up for next to nothing as an aftermarket part) because they tend to let go JUST as you nip the screws tight to hold the arch liners in place. And of course, each time you take the thing off to replace one that has stripped another one gives up.
A couple of the weird locking discs 4F0 825 429 A wouldn't go amiss either.

From what I remember, jack & support the car, remove road wheel. Remove arch liner (there are not the same number of screws on each side of the car and at least one is in an illogical place). Remove the two bolts fixing part 21 (the alloy top mount) to the car body.
Now for the tricky part. Pull down on the top mount to compress the shock and you'll see the top nut - this is 16mm. You won't see it for long because the pressure in the suspension will push the mount back up again. I found that it helped considerably to slot a couple of blocks in to hold the mount down. It's awkward to break the nut loose but possible - a ratchet spanner is an ideal tool - you'll probably also need a small open ended spanner (8mm I think) to stop the shock piston rod from turning.
Once the nut is off, pull down on the mount again to compress the shock as far as you can, then lift the mount off the top of the piston rod. Removing the bellows (sleeve) lets you find any pieces of the old bump stop that may still be on the piston rod.
It's then a case of digging the remains of the stop out of the top mount, cleaning the mount and lubricating the inside of it so the new stop will slide in.
Refitting:
Press the shock piston rod down into the shock (not easy as you now haven't got the top mount to hold), slide the bellows and new bump stop on to the piston rod followed by the top mount and fit the nut. Tighten the nut, fit the top mount to the body and slide the new bump stop into the top mount (now you'll see why I said to lubricate the inside of the mount a little).
Refit the arch liner, job done.
Sorry, don't remember the torque settings for the nut or the bolts.

Don't think I've overlooked anything.

Not a lot to it really but awkward and if you do the job outside your language may offend your neighbours - especially if you have to remove the arch liner time and time again because the blind fittings round out.

Great info & advice, thanks Jim.

Cheers
Roy

While you are doing the job i'd also suggest to check the condition of your rear springs.

They are prone to "crack".