Audi RS6 C6

[Addu84]

Hi everyone,

Newbie here. I am looking to acquire a RS6 C6 as it seems to tick all boxes (family car, practical, fun to drive...). I am very new to the Audi RS6 world and have been reading posts on here. It would be very helpful to get your input in this regard, especially:

- Which MY to go for between 2008 - 2010
- Key options to look out for
- Full Audi Service history vs. Independent
- Mileage
- Key mechanical work that needs to have been undertaken
- Any specialist Audi dealers people have had good experience with


Many thanks for all your help.

Adnan

[Jim Haseltine]

Model year hardly matters, other than the MMI on late cars there's little difference other than facelift trim (like the rear lights, which you can retro fit easily). IMO the most essential thing is the parking assist, the camera is pretty much essential - especially on the Avant. Soft close doors are pretty much a waste as passengers don't know of them and will slam the things. Service history - Audi unless it's one of the good indy's like Unit20.
Mileage not important 'cos they should go on for a long time. Things that ideally should have been done are the coolant pipes and the oil seal - these are age related, not mileage so at an average of 10 years old they'll either have been done or be in dire need. Other things are difficult to predict, with items on some cars letting go early whilst others last.

[Toady1]

Yes, go on service history and condition, the mileage is quite irrelevant on these cars. Many in Germany are pushing 700+bhp with 300tkm on them. what's been replaced by the owners out of choice not because they had to, as in preventative servicing and choice upgrades/renewal of parts, this shows to me that it's been owned by someone that looks after their cars.

Engine vac hoses if not already replaced will be brittle and break easily. N75 valves and N249 at ten years old get a bit sticky and slow. Check gearbox has also been serviced. If you can get one that's already had the stg2 MRC treatment then that saves you a few grand!!! It's also most likely something you WILL want to do eventually if you do buy a standard one.

I'd also be looking to buy privately from an enthusiast like someone on here or Pistonheads too, as you can sus the history out more and see what sort of owner they are. Buying from a dealer/garage you can't do that, and usually they've no idea on the actual car.

[Addu84]

Thanks both.

That is very helpful. Given its an expensive car to repair, I would assume one would want it covered by a warranty. Have you guys come across any companies you would recommend?

[Toady1]

No warranty on mine. But I can do most things myself. You'll struggle to get such a warranty to cover a ten year old car despite its mileage, that will actually pay for anything! Just have some cash reserve for 'if' something went wrong.

[Sonic2505]

Hi everyone,

Newbie here. I am looking to acquire a RS6 C6 as it seems to tick all boxes (family car, practical, fun to drive...). I am very new to the Audi RS6 world and have been reading posts on here. It would be very helpful to get your input in this regard, especially:

- Which MY to go for between 2008 - 2010
- Key options to look out for
- Full Audi Service history vs. Independent
- Mileage
- Key mechanical work that needs to have been undertaken
- Any specialist Audi dealers people have had good experience with


Many thanks for all your help.

Adnan

Mine is coming up for grabs...2010 RS6 Plus Exclusive 54000 Miles. FSH...Daytona Grey, unmolested, not abused and mint...


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[Sonic2505]

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds ... 10/9964509


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[Jambon]

That's mine, it's going as a trade in a week.

[c3nturi0n]

Yes, go on service history and condition, the mileage is quite irrelevant on these cars. Many in Germany are pushing 700+bhp with 300tkm on them. what's been replaced by the owners out of choice not because they had to, as in preventative servicing and choice upgrades/renewal of parts, this shows to me that it's been owned by someone that looks after their cars.

Engine vac hoses if not already replaced will be brittle and break easily. N75 valves and N249 at ten years old get a bit sticky and slow. Check gearbox has also been serviced. If you can get one that's already had the stg2 MRC treatment then that saves you a few grand!!! It's also most likely something you WILL want to do eventually if you do buy a standard one.

I'd also be looking to buy privately from an enthusiast like someone on here or Pistonheads too, as you can sus the history out more and see what sort of owner they are. Buying from a dealer/garage you can't do that, and usually they've no idea on the actual car.

Toady, do you happen to have part #'s associated with N75 and N246 valves?

and for my reference, what function do they perform? or better to say, if they are on their way out, what issues one would see on the car?

[Toady1]

Toady, do you happen to have part #'s associated with N75 and N246 valves?

and for my reference, what function do they perform? or better to say, if they are on their way out, what issues one would see on the car?

N75 - 07L 906 283 C
N249 - 07L 906 270

I can't say I noticed any difference with changing the N75's, and they were the harder ones to replace in situ, but is possible with removing the lower boost pipes.

The N249 I noticed a big difference in low down boost. Neither of mine threw any codes, but I think they became lazy over the years.

[c3nturi0n]

Toady, do you happen to have part #'s associated with N75 and N246 valves?

and for my reference, what function do they perform? or better to say, if they are on their way out, what issues one would see on the car?

N75 - 07L 906 283 C
N249 - 07L 906 270

I can't say I noticed any difference with changing the N75's, and they were the harder ones to replace in situ, but is possible with removing the lower boost pipes.

The N249 I noticed a big difference in low down boost. Neither of mine threw any codes, but I think they became lazy over the years.

cheers Toady.

I may as well give it a go and replace N249. Mind me asking, how easy / difficult is it to get to?

and can it be diy'd (w/o programming etc)?


Many thanks (as always).

[Toady1]

N249 is an absolute doddle! Three pipes to pull off and the electrical connector, no programming required. Its only under the V10 cover.

N75's are not so easy. I've quite a few pics of when I replaced mine I can send you via watsapp if you PM me your number.

[c3nturi0n]

Cheers Toady.

I'll order one through local TPS tomorrow and will give it a go over the w/end. Hopefully I'll get 'more' of my Stage II from Mon .

Will keep you posted on developments.