Rs6

[Ads50]

Hi all, first time I’ve ever signed up to a forum!! Been reading about the rs6 and watched llf on YouTube and had to buy one! So I have brought a rs6 c6 ... it’s a very nice car, so when I brought the car the bloke said it had 660 bhp stage 1 so I’d thought I’d better get it on the dyno, turn out it was 600bhp with 670ft-ib, so the company remapped it to 650bhp 637ft-ib, I’m not that happy with the map, the extra 50bhp is after 5500rpm so feels like I have to rev it up a lot to feel the power plus why would they drop the torque? any ideas??
So I’ve booked for a stage 2 at a well known place so hopefully will feel a lot better!!
And my last question is.... I just got the car bk from the garage it had full service when I got it back it was leaking water (anti-freeze) it dripped constant for about 5-10mins, the garage never touched the water as it was fine, the water that came out was cold, obviously the engine was running very hot! Any ideas anyone? Will be happy to hear from anyone regarding my problems, also if someone could tell me a bit more about gearbox remap would be great thanks all


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[Jim Haseltine]

Leaking from where? Around the back of the rh front wheel/arch? Unfortunatley the two most likely sources are much in the same area so the coolant ends up in the much same place on the ground.
1. overflow from the coolant header tank - not unusual if the car has been really hot. Runs down the engine side of the inner wing so the only place you can see it is around the coolant cap. Patch of coolant is usually just to the rear of the driveshaft, about in line with the rh side of the engine. Not serious.
2. Coolant pipes in the rh wheel arch. If they're weeping you usually won't see anything as the coolant goes behind the wheel arch shield. Patch of coolant usually to the rear of the wheel arch, towards the door pillar. Serious. If it's there you need to take a look at the state of the pipes - it helps to get the arch shield off for a really good look.

[Ads50]

T


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[Ads50]

Ok thanks, so it’s by the front of passenger wheel, I’ve just taking it out for 30 mins, (a good run) and nothing what so ever now! Water still at good level to. I’m thinking about taking back to garage for them to have another look over it


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[Jim Haseltine]

Give it a few hours to cool down then remove the coolant cap. If it was overflowing there'll be coolant (or the remains of) in the overflow channel around the cap.

[Ads50]

Ok thanks will do that


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[IanH755]

Hi Ads50,

Leak - The Coolant is a bright pink colour which makes it easy to distinguish from normal water so, if it is clear water, then there is the windscreen washer bottle on the front passenger side (of a UK RHD car) at the rear of the front wheel and that would be cold after a run, so make sure that someone's not overfilled it and it's spilt.

Alternatively, if the fluid is pink, then in-front of each front wheel is an inter-cooler with a small radiator attached to the rear of it, this radiator (A4 paper sized) might be leaking but if the fluid was cold I'd suggest thats probably not the cause.

Mapping - Different mappers use different methods for mapping the RS6 which explains the difference you're seeing. Some have full access to the ECU and others can only rewrite small sections of it.

However, and this is my personal choice (lots of others agree but they're not the only mapping company), I would prefer to get the car mapped by MRC in Banbury. Their mechanical work is OK (servicing, repairs etc - no better than elsewhere) but their mapping is the best in the UK as they full access to both the ECU and the gearbox ECU. However its pricey at £2100-ish (£1000 for the ECU, £600 for the gearbox ECU - trust me you want both - and £500 for the exhaust part needed for the ECU map) but you'll come away with 700-750hp and 725-800lbs/ft on average which, from my experience, is the absolute best "performance vs cost" mod you can make on this car and makes the car capable of 0-200mph in 36sec in a touch over a mile (I know, I posted a YouTube video of me doing it) which is just stunning for a 2 ton saloon/estate.

The amount of folks who come on this forum with cars mapped by "XXX" mapper who then get the car mapped by MRC and are amazed at the difference the MRC map makes is huge.

However, as I said they're very pricey so a map by someone cheaper like REVO will net still you 650-680hp and upto 700lbs/ft on average but they'll be a lot cheaper doing it.

[Ads50]

Hi, thanks for the reply, yes it’s bright pink so definitely anti freeze, it has stopped now, which is good but very confusing, especially when I’m driving up to Banbury next month for my stage 2!
Everything seems to be running fine now. Oh is that you in that vid?! I’ve watched that loads! How strange! I’m looking forward to going, just feel bit let down by mapper as he lost torque the car feels like a type r ... having to pick the revs right up to get the power.
Do u go VMAX?
Can u please tell me more about your motor?


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[Ads50]

One more little question, how fast will it change after map? Seems like the faster I go the slower the gear changes are!
And do both limiters come off in gear box map ?

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[IanH755]

Gearbox - The hotter the GB gets the slower the full throttle changes get, so check the engine undertray and make sure all the scoops are there as these direct air onto the GB's oil coolers and will keep the oil at the correct temp (replacing the undertray is fairly cheap and well worth doing).

As for how fast for a change - I can only give the figures I have from my mapped GB ECU which maybe different than stock GB ECU but I measured the "BRAAAP" noise of a gear change at full throttle and it should last only around 0.10 to 0.15 of a second at most (measured using my video editing software) when the GB is at the right temp. When the GB is getting hot it''ll stretch out past 0.30 of a second and anything more than 1 second is badly wrong. However, if you're manually changing gear at say 5000rpm at part throttle, the GB change will be very slightly slower than the full throttle version (say upto the 0.30 of a hot GB) even if cooled correctly. That 206mph video is with a stock box and a new undertray and the GB changes are pretty fast but normal for a mapped gearbox ECU.

Of course other folks may have different results, these are only mine.

As for my car, there's a Pistonheads link in my sig with every single thing I've done, the good and the bad, if you're interested in a fairly long read (nearly 4 years of posts).

[Ads50]

Gearbox - The hotter the GB gets the slower the full throttle changes get, so check the engine undertray and make sure all the scoops are there as these direct air onto the GB's oil coolers and will keep the oil at the correct temp (replacing the undertray is fairly cheap and well worth doing).

As for how fast for a change - I can only give the figures I have from my mapped GB ECU which maybe different than stock GB ECU but I measured the "BRAAAP" noise of a gear change at full throttle and it should last only around 0.10 to 0.15 of a second at most (measured using my video editing software) when the GB is at the right temp. When the GB is getting hot it''ll stretch out past 0.30 of a second and anything more than 1 second is badly wrong. However, if you're manually changing gear at say 5000rpm at part throttle, the GB change will be very slightly slower than the full throttle version (say upto the 0.30 of a hot GB) even if cooled correctly. That 206mph video is with a stock box and a new undertray and the GB changes are pretty fast but normal for a mapped gearbox ECU.

Of course other folks may have different results, these are only mine.

As for my car, there's a Pistonheads link in my sig with every single thing I've done, the good and the bad, if you're interested in a fairly long read (nearly 4 years of posts).

Amazing thanks, went to mrc yesterday well happy the car feels stronger, does actually feel like a different engine, 740bhp and really happy with gearbox map


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