Engine / Gearbox Removal

[c3nturi0n]

How long? Awkward question. There are a number of factors to take into account, not the least being that I was taking my time, was working outside with little space and the car on stands. I have about 3' between the front of the car and a wall, similar distance behind it to another wall and the same (at best) to the right where there's another car. It's only to the left of the car where I've got unrestricted access. Lifting gear was a decent trolley jack (3 ton I think) and an engine crane. I also had to knock off from time to time so I could source tools which I didn't have. And then there were things like having to cut off the exhaust sleeves and dealing with a difficult positioned bolt that I'd stripped. Ignoring breaks and other times when I wasn't actually working (neighbours do insist on talking) I'd say it was over 30 hours spread over a week and a half, maybe two, to get the engine out. Working inside with space to move, a post lift, all the tools to hand, an assistant when needed AND having done the job once already, I could take at least 10 hours off that, maybe even half it.
But that's taking it out and remember, although the engine was free, I never moved it away from the car, I just slid it back, lifted it and bolted the mounts into place after I'd taken the manifolds off then dropped it again later to refit them but I also removed other things (like the oil tank so it could be repainted) which don't need to be touched if you're just dropping the engine. Putting it all back in place properly took at least as long as taking it out - and that was before I got around to filling the fluids.

Cheers Jim.

Still contemplating on the idea is it worth doing this job or not!?

Other than an oil seal, is it worth tackling other jobs when the engine is out?

[Jim Haseltine]

You can always find other jobs to do when the engine is out - I did. I can't think of how many times I thought something along the lines of "Well, it'll be a while before I'm ready to put it together again so I may as well do...". Unconnected with the turbos and other work in the engine compartment, I've changed the rear discs & pads, fitted new bump stops on the rear shocks, poly bushed the roll bars & drop links and resprayed the cills and rear bumper. There's probably some other jobs that I've forgotten too.

[welwynnick]

Can anyone say whether it's feasible to remove the gearbox without removing the engine? I've done it a few times on other V8/12 cars, though obviously not an RS6.

Just wondering

Nick

[C_J]

I’ve never done it personally.
But I’ve seen it done on two occasions so yes it’s possible.

[welwynnick]

Thanks.

I think ATinOf also answered a lot of questions in his "Removing the Gearbox.." thread: viewtopic.php?f=47&t=129515

It sounds like the main issue was disconnecting the nearside downpipe.

Cheers, Nick

[ruedisrs6]

It seems that I will need to do the same procedure because of a substantial oil leak of the seal on the right front between the bedplate and the oil sump. When this engine gets old, it develops huge oil leak problems I never thought about in my life before with "normal" cars
I feel brave enough to do the job, the only issue is that I am not sure about the AC compressor. If I follow the descibed procedure here (I know this is not environmentally fully correct) and open the AC pressure line, can I - after reconnecting all AC lines and tubes to the compressor - start the engine and drive to a workshop to do the filling procedure ? I am asking this because the compressor does not have a magnetic clutch and is regulated by a valve via PWM, which does not go below 5%. Do I destroy the compressor by starting the engine while the AC system is empty ? I searched a lot about this issue and contacted Denso, however, no reply from them.
Many thanks, any feedback is most appreciated.

Best

Rudy