Coolant pipes

[c3nturi0n]

afternoon gents,

i'm in the process of setting up my mini to-do list as part of RS's overall maintenance. Something i'd like to get some indication is the cost of replacement parts / labour involved re coolant lines. Here is the image that I got from TPS and was wondering can you confirm which part/s will need replacing please?


KR.

[Jim Haseltine]

If you mean THE coolant pipes (the ones under the wheel arch), they're parts 4F0121169 & 4F0819278A, which because the image isn't true to life are parts (I think) 46 (4F0121169) and 49 (4F0819278A). They cost approx £40 and £150 if I recall correctly.
Labour charges depend on who does the job, how they do the job and whether they've done it before.
The short pipe is easy(ish) and is pretty much a case of removing the wheel and arch liner then disconnecting two hose clips and a nut.
The long one is much more involved and 99% of the time the act of removing the short pipe will force replacement of the long one.

[c3nturi0n]

thanks Jim... other than parts listed above, is there anything else that should be considered or addressed within coolant pipes scope of work (any other pipes, bolts, nuts etc.)?

Appreciate your assistance.

[Jim Haseltine]

Only thing I can think of at the moment is a bit of housekeeping inside the body where the pipes and steering arms run. Mine had a concretion of gravel and road dust in there that was so deep that the brake lines in there were buried.
I took a close on a kg out of there when I cleaned both sides.
viewtopic.php?f=47&t=125854

[c3nturi0n]

parts ordered as mine are tad "tatty"... work to be done over the course of next couple of weeks.

[Jim Haseltine]

Mine were worse than that but didn't appear to be too bad at first sight then the act of removing the sight tank hoses caused both of them to split.

[c3nturi0n]

cheers... getting parts in couple weeks time as they are on 10-day back order via TPS...

[Woodygo]

Hi can anyone help me will the engine need to be removed to do these to pipe thanks steve

[Jim Haseltine]

Depends on a number of things.
If you're happy to have a cut'n'join job on the long pipe then the engine doesn't have to come out.
If you aren't then it depends on who is doing the job, how stubborn they are and how much pain and damage they're willing to do to themselves. It's not easy and requires a lot of lateral thinking (or maybe it doesn't and I just went about it an awkward way). And mine took me best part of 5 days.

[Woodygo]

Hi Jim will the cut and joint job be safe and do the job do you no what’s in tailed to do the cut and join job ? Thanks steve

[Jim Haseltine]

Never seen one on a RS but I know they're out there. Basically the corroded part of the pipe is cut out and bridged with flexy hose.

[Woodygo]

Thanks Jim I have just called unit 20 they said they can do it 4hrs Labour plus parts whole job £550 / £600

[Woodygo]

I will call mrc tomorrow as they used to look after my rs6 c5

[Toady1]

Thanks Jim I have just called unit 20 they said they can do it 4hrs Labour plus parts whole job £550 / £600

That is to replace the full pipe with a new one is it, not cut and 'repair'? If so then for one of the majot jobs on these to do it isn't too bad really!!

[Jim Haseltine]

I was thinking on this last night. The difficulty with this job is the lack of access to the connection at the far end of the long pipe. If it was a job that I was likely to do more than once I'd invest in a few tools that would enable the job to be done with access via the wheel arch - they might have to be custom made as I've never seen anything of the sort when I've browsed tool catalogues (not that I've been looking for that specific sort of thing). With hindsight, had I been fully aware of what I was facing before I started the job I'd have tried making some.