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Okay, does the driver's wing have to come off to deal with the long coolant pipe? I'm part way through the job and can't work out how to get the old one out - it's like one of those wire puzzles that sadistic uncles used to give me for birthdays.
I could cut the pipe (not that it'd need much, it's like lace) but I'm thinking more of how I get the new one back in.
The amount of road grit I've found where the pipes run is amazing - it's going to need a bloody good clean out in there.

Inner wing yes but I'm guessing you already have that removed . If you mean the metal wing then no.
If you need some pictures of the two pipes out on the bench let me know.

OK, back to fiddling then. There's a brake hard line in there too - I think if I unclip it I'll have a bit more room to move things around. Other than trying to work out how to get to the thing, the worst problem I've encountered (so far) was trying to break 9 years of rubber hose/hot metal pipe interface at the far end of the pipe.

Maybe of some help.

Even after moving the brake line I couldn't get the pipe out so I cut it. The new one slid into place without a problem, which surprised me more than slightly. I'm now left with just the far hose to reconnect which will have to wait a few days due to work commitments and because forcing my less than dainty left hand through narrow gaps has caused it to swell somewhat. Then it's just the task of reattaching pieces that I removed at the start of the job.
Cleaned it out in there too - haven't taken a look at the lefthand side yet.

BTW - the short pipe was unholed but the bracket had corroded and cracked, whilst the long pipe appeared to be solid but gave up in three places when I removed the expansion tank pipe so I reckon it wouldn't have had long left in regular service. That's 9 years and 90K+ miles - the new pipes have been stripped and powder coated with the same stuff that that the MoD specced for Wolf Land Rovers so I hope I won't be doing this job again.

hello
can I ask where does the long pipe connect or what has to be took off to access it as mine have started to weep. i've pulled inner wing off but could not see where the long pipe goes cheers in advance

Someone can probably verify this as its a bit of a guess - smack bang in the middle of this pic routed near the steering rack, I'd imagine you'd need a lot of patience a small hand and be able to work blind if you did this full length with the engine in



Although they've been done on mine it wasn't by me (if it was I'd have done the whole length, those that did mine cut and joined my long one just behind my wheel arch cover out of sight)

Had I known at the time my engine was coming out later, I would have left it till then (hindsight is a wonderful thing)

cheers for the info. it looks a bit nasty to do with engine in

Yep. See what looks like a notch in the bottom of the bulkhead? It's not. It's a hole - the long pipe joins a hose inside there. It's not a job I'd like to do again with the engine in place, even if I could find a way to remove the oil filter container/mount thing. If I really had to do it that way again, I'd do things slightly differently (I'd not remove the screw that holds the long pipe to the bulkhead before I'd split the pipe from the hose for a start) and I'd invest in a quality endoscope with a remote monitor so I could see what I was doing rather than having to work by feel.
The things that saved the job a number of times were a slim magnetic pickup, a reel of strimmer cord and a roll of plastic insulation tape - the cord being tied/taped to tools so I could recover them when dropped. Luckily, the only one which I dropped that I hadn't secured rattled down far enough to be visible from below.

Endescope -
An invaluable tool, I've used this with the smart phone for such jobs, even took some footage and photos of the carbon build up when my inlet manifold was off and used it to check the bores of the valve body in the 6HP28A61 to check for scoring, and for alignment of the flexplate to bolt the Torque converter up, recommended. You will wonder how you ever managed without it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1

The oil filter housing removal would be a challenge with the engine in situ (but then what isn't) You'd need to disconnect the vacuum pump oil feed behind it (banjo), Remove the fuel low pressure sender and manifold block that sits on the side of it (3 screws at the back side) and to get to all the bolts on the housing (2 behind, 2 in front) the inlet manifold off; couple of pics







Offending seals I had to replace were the single O-ring rear, and double O-ring front


(noting I completely removed the fuel block, you would only unscrew it)


An excellent opportunity to clean it

After an hour or two of messing around I still couldn't work out how to remove the filter housing so drained the oil, disconnected the vacuum pump oil feed from it and filled the housing with paper towel in case something ended up in it. The oil feed wasn't easy either - once the feed bolt was loose enough to turn with my fingertips I had the magnetic tool on it so I didn't drop it. Without removing it I could not have got my hand down the back of the engine.
The only way I could reach the hose was with my left hand - I suspect that had I removed the bonnet I might have been able to get my right hand in there but I had nowhere safe to store a panel that big.
And you need a remote hose clip tool and for whoever fitted the pipe in the first place to have mounted the clip at an angle that lets you fit the tool by feel with one hand.

hello

got all the pipes from tps todays small one 40.52 and long one 176.46 plus the dreaded