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I fitted new brake pads and discs today, while I was doing it I decided to do a write up for anyone else wanting to change theirs, at least it will save you a few quid paying garage prices.

I actually put part used Phaeton discs and DS2500 pads on, bare in mind that these pads do not have wear sensors, mine have been looped to create an open circuit as to trick the car in thinking that the wear pads are ok.

So lets start.

Tools needed,

10mm spanner
21mm heavy duty socket (ideally a breaker bar)
Flat headed screwdriver
Long nose pliers
Hole punch or long nail or screw
Hammer
Star socket (size tbc)
Wheel brace and locking nut
WD40 & Grease
Scotchbright
Jack and axle stands
Arm strength



Jack the car up and put car on front axle stands, this is not necessary for just changing the pads but is safer. Position axle stand under subframe

If changing the discs, put steering on full lock, if changing right hand side discs you need to use left full lock (so you can get to rear of calliper) and vice versa.



No need to undo break fluid reservoir cap, however, if you have had a fluid change when the pads are low you will need to undo cap, put rag around reservoir area to stop spillage. Due to the new pads being thicker, this will push the pistons in forcing the brake fluid up into the reservoir.

Now remove the two brake pad retaining pins. I used a thin screw (if you don't have a hole punch) and hammer the pin towards the engine, push down on the pin as to compress the anti rattle springs, this will make it easier to remove.




Once the brake pad retaining pics have been removed I would recommend cleaning them with some Scotchbrite as it makes it easier to remove in the future. If seized use a tiny bit of WD40 (don't go mental with it).



Once pins and springs have been removed, use a flat headed screw driver (or a calliper rewind tool) and carefully wedge between discs and pad, slowing pushing the pad and piston pot back into the calliper (once pads are out you can easily move the pistons with fingers). As they are 8 pot callipers there are two pistons per pad. Once the pistons are pushed back the pads will slide out, you can use a long nose pliers to extract the pad is its jammed in.



Once removed, prepare the new brake pads by putting some copper grease between the pack of the pad and the shim, then a tiny amount between shim and piston. Slide new pads back into place. All pads are the same and all fit in one way.





Put anti rattle springs and brake pad retaining pins back in, you may need to tap them back in place with a hammer.

When complete, put wheel back on and lower car, and road test, Ideally when engine off pump foot brake, turn engine on pump foot brake.

Fitting brake discs.

As before for changing pads, the pads need to be removed in order for the calliper to come off.

You need to remove the brake sensor housing bracket, this is held onto the wishbone by 1 x 10mm bolt, a spanner is best used (its removed so you can access the top bolt with a socket wrench).



Next, now this is the hard part, you need to undo the 2 x 21mm calliper retaining bolts that are located at the back of the calliper. These bolts have locking collar shims. They are done up tight, and it is recommended that you use a very sturdy socket set, a breaker bar is ideal as they have a rotating end so it wont fowl on the wheel arch. Use a small amount of WD40 to loosen it up. Tap with hammer and then try with all your might. Axle stands are a must.



Once the 2 x 21mm calliper retaining bolts are removed the calliper will just slide off, tie the calliper to the top of the suspension frame and/or rest it on another axle stand, this will not put strain on the brake hoses.



Next step, use a star head and remove the single bolt that is holding the disc to the hub, and then remove disc.





Put new disc on using smearing copper grease on the hub that the discs sits onto.

Next is to put calliper back on using the 2 calliper retaining bolts, make sure you do them up very tight (200nm). Put break pads back in as mentioned above. Fit the break line housing bracket to wishbone with the single bolt.



Replace wheel and road test.

Job done.

Great info

Nice one Sonny, was going to do the same earlier this week and create a how to guide but gave up at the caliper removal part and put it all back together.
Was struggling to get clearance with the 21mm socket when locked left for the RHS wheel - maybe not enough lock as I did it with engine off.
Top bolt was fine, it was the one at the bottom that had clearance issues.

Will give it another bash at the weekend.

Thanks for sharing Sonny, there's not enough DIYs on this forum, we should have a dedicated section for posts like this!

No worries, I always try and share the love

Top write up sonny. Not tempted by the Loba discs then?

Excellent job there Sonny. Nice and clear.

(Could anyone embellish with any necessary torques ?.... or is it all just "fcuking tight")

P_G wrote:Top write up sonny. Not tempted by the Loba discs then?

Thanks, and no as I have three sets of discs kicking about already, going to get my old ones skimmed and have as a spare. If I was going to do the B7 track day project then yes I would have, however my brain has won my heart and am sticking to the clio as track day weapon (cheaper).

TimsterRS4 wrote:Excellent job there Sonny. Nice and clear.

(Could anyone embellish with any necessary torques ?.... or is it all just "fcuking tight")

Thanks, Iv been tweaking with cars for a few years now and you get to know what needs to be tight and what doesn't. I don't know the correct torque settings for the RS4, so its guess work. The 2 x 21mm calliper bolts are "fcuking tight" the rest is all hand tight.

Sweet

Great write up!

I did mine last year, the pins can be a bitch to punch out and i had a proper pin punch (Plus blow torch!). Living up north doesn't help, too much salt on the roads. Probably a good idea to change the pins out if they are heavily corroded. Also a good idea to clean the crud from the the calliper ledge where the pads slide in and out.

I took off my old discs without removing the callipers, shame new discs are too fat to fit back in though

The calliper retaining bolts for the rears were even worse to remove, i was knackered after doing the front and rear discs!

guffy wrote:Great write up!


The calliper retaining bolts for the rears were even worse to remove, i was knackered after doing the front and rear discs!

Cheers, yep its a test of your man strength for sure.

Great write up,i usually clean the hub surface and disc contact area with a medium emery cloth to ensure they seat perfectly,i usually put smear of copperslip on mating surfaces of pretty much everything on re assy inc wheel bolt threads and wheel contact area,perhaps a bit ott but alloy wheels onto steel hubs over a long period can become quite attached ! I also like to clean the pistons before shoving them back into the caliper and add a smear of silicone grease or copperslip if non to hand.I recall the rears on my b5 corroding in the bores so would like to prevent this in years to come if poss.

Thats all good stuff, likewise I do the same, esp one the wheel bolts and face to face parts.

Good write up sonny I managed to fit my front discs without removing the calipers you do need to be careful when sliding in the new discs and I also had to undo the cap on the fluid resevoir as the fluid had nowhere to go apart from out. undoing the brake sensor is a bit of a bitch.

Terry1948 wrote:Good write up sonny I managed to fit my front discs without removing the calipers you do need to be careful when sliding in the new discs and I also had to undo the cap on the fluid resevoir as the fluid had nowhere to go apart from out. undoing the brake sensor is a bit of a bitch.

I actually need to amend my original post, as if you have had a brake fluid change after your pads have been used then the level will over flow. I also do a fluid change when new pads go on so I know there is a consistency there. Also I am guessing some ppl may have topped up when there pads are worn?

I did not want to scratch or damage the discs so took the callipers off, I was shown to do this by a Audi tech a few years ago so was following his instruction. Your LOBA discs are thinner than OEM so this is prob why you can slide them in?