RS246.com Forum :: The World's #1 Audi R, S and RS Enthusiast Community

Hi guys,

Had my car for a whole 3 days now, and I've noticed that it's really, really easy to get a kangaroo effect going in 2nd gear, e.g pulling away from lights etc. The only cars I've been in like this have been a Citroen saxo (which was French), and a modded 993 turbo - in the 993, the race clutch was strong enough to make the engine twist on the mounts, giving the kangaroo thing. We solved that by fitting solid mounts.

So, is my problem:
A. I need to learn to drive.
B. I need to check the engine mounts in case one is a bit worse for wear.

Car is an '06 with 38k on the clock.

Cheers
SB

think this is a bit of a problem, especially from cold, i tend to change upto 2nd
very early or you could just set of in 2nd which i do when the engine has warmed
up.i think some members have had the ecu changed to the newer version.
ther is lots of info further down the forum about this.

Your pulling away to slowly
I have noticed this aswell occasionally happening.

Hope your enjoying your RS,get some pics up

Explain to your local Audi that you have kangarooing, that you have a lot of smoke when starting from cold (even if you haven't).
If they're any good they'll check the relevant Audi workshop DB and see that you need ver SW0090.
This will certainly make the kangarooing less apparent and will also help with oil consumption and a couple of other things IIRC.
Worth doing anyway.

TimsterRS4 wrote:Explain to your local Audi that you have kangarooing, that you have a lot of smoke when starting from cold (even if you haven't).
If they're any good they'll check the relevant Audi workshop DB and see that you need ver SW0090.
This will certainly make the kangarooing less apparent and will also help with oil consumption and a couple of other things IIRC.
Worth doing anyway.

Nice one Timster i think i will do this,or will it be pointless if getting it mapped ?

Get the SW done first then get it mapped.

IIRC All the SW90 version will do WRT kangarooing is rev the engine at 1800 rpm for 30 seconds to get the pre cat warming phase done sooner.

Mine does this to and usually its down to not enough revs when pulling away - common after some fun in S mode and then going to non-S mode with a reduced throttle sensitivity.

Like someone said, i think more revs would help. I believe the engine has a relatively small flywheel, so you have to be quite practised with smooth gear changes too.

adsgreen wrote:Get the SW done first then get it mapped.

IIRC All the SW90 version will do WRT kangarooing is rev the engine at 1800 rpm for 30 seconds to get the pre cat warming phase done sooner.

Mine does this to and usually its down to not enough revs when pulling away - common after some fun in S mode and then going to non-S mode with a reduced throttle sensitivity.

adsgreen wrote:non-S mode with a reduced throttle sensitivity.

What is this 'Non S mode' stuff'?

Def get it done before you map it as the update will revert your car back to stock.

Around town driving just using 2nd, 4th and 6th and feed in the clutch rather than low revs. Otherwise all out attack anywhere else, problem eliminated!

So that's "learn to drive" then! I have noticed that if you boot it then it's fine, just that sometimes it's nice to be subtle!
Is there any way of asking the car what software it's on? Like in the on board computer hoojit?

Cheers
SB

PS - pics after I've waxed it, the car prep was okay, but not exactly world class - there's autoglym in every shutline!

Some people reckon that you can reduce it by pressing the ESP button to raise the ESP thresholds, or even press and hold it to turn ESP off.

Only way to get engine software version is with a VCDS/Vag Com diagnostic cable

I've found that the smoothest way to drive the car is turn off the traction control and engage the "S" button