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Decided to de-coke the RS4 here are some pics, car has done 51000 [attachment=18]IMG_1512.JPG[/attachment
Car now running so much better, took it out for a spin loads more low down torque and when it hit 5500 rpm i started laughing, it goes nuts, i always knew it was down on power

Good effort.

Looks good to me.

How long did it take you?

Good job, did you use DIP3 aerosol and then wipe or was it the petrol additive you used?

Looking good. I plan on doing this in due course - mine's currently done 47k miles and has definitely lost its 5500rpm kick. Did the DIP3 dissolve the deposits on its own or did it need scrubbing as well - in which case what did you use to scrub it?

Also, what did you use to get the DIP3 out of the inlet tract to ensure nome of the DIP3 or deposits subsequently dropped into a cylinder?

Thanks
Dave

Dave_M wrote:Looking good. I plan on doing this in due course - mine's currently done 47k miles and has definitely lost its 5500rpm kick. Did the DIP3 dissolve the deposits on its own or did it need scrubbing as well - in which case what did you use to scrub it?

Also, what did you use to get the DIP3 out of the inlet tract to ensure nome of the DIP3 or deposits subsequently dropped into a cylinder?

Thanks
Dave

Sounds like you need to check for a vacuum leak first Dave

guffy wrote:Looks good to me.

How long did it take you?

It took a good two days

P_G wrote:Good job, did you use DIP3 aerosol and then wipe or was it the petrol additive you used?

I used two cans DIP3 that i had spare, and two cans of whynns carb cleaner, and it took a hell of alot of elbow grease, you have to get the soft carbon off first and then the hard carbon!!

Dave_M wrote:Looking good. I plan on doing this in due course - mine's currently done 47k miles and has definitely lost its 5500rpm kick. Did the DIP3 dissolve the deposits on its own or did it need scrubbing as well - in which case what did you use to scrub it?

Also, what did you use to get the DIP3 out of the inlet tract to ensure nome of the DIP3 or deposits subsequently dropped into a cylinder?

Thanks
Dave

The DIP 3 and carb cleaner helps alot to dissolve it but it does take alot of scrubbing and scraping

Dave_M wrote:Looking good. I plan on doing this in due course - mine's currently done 47k miles and has definitely lost its 5500rpm kick. Did the DIP3 dissolve the deposits on its own or did it need scrubbing as well - in which case what did you use to scrub it?

Also, what did you use to get the DIP3 out of the inlet tract to ensure nome of the DIP3 or deposits subsequently dropped into a cylinder?

Thanks
Dave

I used an old henry hover and reduced the pipe size to get into the inlet port but you must make sure the valves are shut before scrubing or chapping any carbon off, i made sure they were shut by spraying some DIP3 in and leaving it for a bit, as soon as i was confident it was not draining away i knew the valves were closed and then procceded to clean, its all this that takes the time as the last thing you want is bits of carbon flying around in the cylinders

HEo2TEC wrote:

guffy wrote:Looks good to me.

How long did it take you?

It took a good two days

I'm considering having a go myself. I have a good range of tools, any specials required?

Come to think of it, a list of tools required would be even a better

Dave_M wrote: mine's currently done 47k miles and has definitely lost its 5500rpm kick.
Dave

Interested to know how coking affects the 'kick', i though that was provided via the power flap?

Guffy,

My logic is that the kick's provided by the ecu allowing full airflow into the engine above 5500rpm - by opening the airbox flap. If the airbox flap was previously the limiting factor on airflow then opening the flap gives a noticeable step change in airflow. However, if the valves / in,et tracts are coked up and restricting airflow, then the airbox flap opening will have less impact as the maximum flow rate is reduced.

Might be a load of old bo!!ocks - in which case I'm sure someone will soon point out why my logic is illogical!

Dave

I think Doug (MRC) can explain the kick issue, well.
Doug?

(I used to produce over 400Ps on a stock engine but with very little kick). It was all in the low-down torque... so the kick was effectively less obvious.

No one thing causes the kick.... it's a combination of factors.

It is at least two things; in the first three gears where it is pronounced it is air box flap open but also WOT which as most know the RS is throttle limited in the first three gears. Not felt as much in 4th because of speed of airflow / WOT in that gear.