Page 1 of 1
* HELP * Brake line / joint/union
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2025 2:16 pm
by JonesyJ
Hi All,
After some help if I may please.
I've got a set of braided hoses to go on the car. The rears are done, but I've got an issue with the fronts. The joint/union where you'd attached the brake pipe (braided hose) to the car ( the hard line) is heavily corroded. The part i mean is circled on the attached picture. How do i get this replaced? I am being told that its an engine out job to fit new lines from the servo to the hub? Is this true?
Sorry. I do not currently have an actual picture, forgot to take one while the wheels were off.
Hope I've explained my self correctly.
Thank you.
Re: * HELP * Brake line / joint/union
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2025 3:20 pm
by Zyox
I have this issue with my rears. Exactly same scenario - upgrading to braided. Had to abandon the rears and only do the fronts. The part is not available from Audi any more and I haven't seen it on the tradition website at all. I'm wondering is this scanable and 3D printable?
Re: * HELP * Brake line / joint/union
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2025 4:15 pm
by JonesyJ
Its certainly not going to be 3D printable purely because of the pressures involved. I had the same issues on the rear, but i was doing a rear resto so had loads of space to work. the fronts with all the pressure it takes, im trying to find out the best way to do the fronts
Re: * HELP * Brake line / joint/union
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2025 5:58 pm
by Zyox
Sorry I should have specified 3D printed to test fitment then possibly get it machined? I fear we are getting to that stage with some of these parts but I'm open to any other solutions
Re: * HELP * Brake line / joint/union
Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2025 11:40 am
by Ed Chappell
If the problem is the steel hard pipe and the M10x1 fitting which screws into the fitting on the flexi is badly corroded then it may be possible to repair it by cutting the bad section of the steel pipe back and making a short repair section.
You need to be sure there is enough steel pipe to get a new M10x1 male pipe fitting on plus room for a pipe flaring tool to make a single flare. Flaring steel pipe on the car is difficult so if you have not done it before get some scrap 3/16 steel pipe and practice until you can form a perfect single flare.
You can buy male to male jointing pieces or use a male M10x1 fitting into a female one. Normally a short repair pipe made out of copper/nickel (Kuniform) tube with fittings needs to be made to replace the section of pipe removed. Kuniform tube is easier to flare and bend than steel. Copper tube is normally not recommended.
Do not use 3/16 compression fittings found on ebay, they may not withstand the fluid pressure under heavy braking.
If you don't have the tools or skills then a good independent garage will be able to do it provided there is enough pipe to work with.
I have just done both front sides on a Range Rover L322 with the same problem. It was awkward and time consuming because space was tight but it worked!
Good luck, Ed.