All comes at once - DIY: SAI, DRC, Oil cooler, Carbon clean, Fan, Tyres, Paint Corrosion, Injector Service

[lugars4]

Thanks for the offer.

I got them tested yesterday and looking much better!

Interesting, the new "AB" injectors do all flow 3-4% less than the original "D".

Each set of 4 are nicely within 1% now.

Turns out the first company, although they have the correct ASNU gear, didnt back flush them.
These guys knew right off what the problem was and reported deposits when flushing back.
So the first test was a waste of time and money....

[JamesBaby]

That's great to hear mate. Good work.

[lugars4]

Coming together, cant wait now to get it all back on and running.

Its cost a few £k, but given ive had the car since 2010 and this is the first spend other than servicing, its not bad at all.

New discs on order, reasonable deal from Autodoc, happy. OEM.

[lugars4]

Regarding general rust prevention, giving XCP Rust Blocker a try.

Gets good reviews.

On any exposed pipes, etc.
Inspected my DRC lines and actually in much better shape than I expected.

This is what sold it to me.

https://youtu.be/AsS8-GPEGJc?si=cecd9Ks8jcIPuX6K

[lugars4]

Discs arrived from Autodoc.

Amazing my rears are still on their original set, 18 years and 65,000 miles, so not worried about the price of them (£44 per year), now measuring 20.1mm (min advised is 20.4mm), so its time.

See my other thread on pads, ive decided to try Endless MX72 front and rear. They sound too good to be true, a unique ceramic-carbon-metallic compound, they are priced so, but when looking for a fast road pad, with low disc wear, low noise and good cold performance, these are it, with the added bonus of lower dust.

[lugars4]

Back together and running today.

Just one side of front upper arms to do, rear springs and brake job (discs, pads, braided lines, fluid).

The oil cooler pipes were an awful job to do, wish i had just purchased OEM. I spent many years as a pipe fitter and this was a miserable job.
I wanted to retain metal braided hoses, many change to nylon briaded, i didnt fancy the downgrade.
But what a PITA to fit, ended up buying more fittings (@ £24 each!) to get the angles right so they fitted properly. Cost a lot in the end.
Made sure to re-use the rubber mounts from the old hoses, the one that sits in the opening had to be opened up. Then added matal clamps. WIll add some more pics and fiting details later if anyone is feeling like a miserable challenge!
The main problem i found was the hose didnt have any where near the bend radius of the OEM. OEM is teflon/braided. The new ones are thick rubber/braided, bend the too tight and it will start to kink.

Then with all the cutting, fitting, cutting, fitting, flushing and fitting, it took far too long. And its just not a nice as the OEM setup with the hard pipes where it wants them. Plus the oil cooler is deeper than the OEM so the power steering cooler in front needed its pipe mount spaced off 15mm, not a big deal, just a m6 spacer.

But we got there and it's looking great overall, and a nice feeling with all the crabon out, injectors matched to 1%, new fan, engine mount, SAI blower, oil cooler and hoses, fresh oil (took over 10.5 liters, mondering if when oil is changed with oil cooler connected it holds onto some as i read its closer to 9.5 litres typically).

Also waiting on the Endless MX72 pads to arrive from japan!

[lugars4]

Also, manged to bend and flare the rear brake lines (not easy as quite hard stainless steel) ready for new HEL brake lines.

Looks like ill be doing the same, mine are shot, the flare nuts on the ends of the lines have had it.

Where did you make the joint? Did you go with stainless new line sections from the joint?

[r8wut]

ok , sorry for late reply..
so, if you recall..

I think the technical word you're looking for used to describe the rear lines was FUBAR :

I used, angle grinder to cut the lines close as possible to the ends (or what was left of them)
Straightened out the pipe using a bender and carefully, cut away at the plastic housing,
then used a LASER tools 5318, Tube Cutter 3 - 28mm , to cut the rear lines again - to make a neat, square cut.

[r8wut]

Its important to NOTE.

My existing LASER tools 6728 Brake Pipe Flaring Tool (as pictured above) could *NOT* flare the Stainless Steel OE pipes successfully. A quick call to their support team confirmed the flare tool is not designed for the stronger S/Steel brake lines

So, once the lines had been deburred and cleaned .. I had to purchase the "AB Tools Brake Pipe Flaring hand held tool" from Amazon, which managed to do the job:

[r8wut]

So, next was carefully painting the lines (where I had cut back the plastic protection) back up to protect the lines against future corrosion.

I choose Hammerite Direct to Rust Metal Paint Smooth Finish in black , which was easy enough to apply.

Next up, was carefully bending the Stainless steel pipe into shape and into the correct position for connection to the HEL brake lines:

[r8wut]

Obviously, process was same for both sides of rear lines..

took a bit of time as I was also tackling both the rear wheel arches for corrosion.

Hope this helps everyone out.. as you don't really need to purchase any additional brake line joints, lines etc.

[lugars4]

Thanks, i picked up a similar tool to the AB one, its DIN type flare.

Going to see how i get on next few days, have purchased some better grips to see if i can get the nut to undo to make cutting it off easier.
Picked up some 90/10 copper nickel tube in case i need to make sections up.

Rear springs wouldnt come off with my old spring compresors and releasing the shock mount (rear shocks) still wouldnt let the arm pivot down enough to get them out so purchased this:

UPDATE:

Dont waste your time buying the above spring compressor, it wont fit with the access avaialble.
Take two bolts out of lower arm to hub carrier and release a few cable clips to do this instead:

[JamesBaby]

Doing some good work there. i recall on my earlier Daytona B7 having to have the front brake line done. What a mission and got Awesome Gti to do it in the end.

[lugars4]

Rear pipe replaced, front to do.

Flare tool did a great job, on both the steel and copper lines.

Hardest / longest part was getting the plastic coating off the tube. I then files the end, de-burred, polished with 400 and 2000 grit paper.

[lugars4]

Front n/s replaced today.

Not easy, not barely enough pipe to get the tool on, cut it back behind the plastic cover around the tie rod, managed to pull it out from the engine bay once the end was cut off to allow me to clean and prep the pipe, the pushed it back in and made the end off in situ. Joiner added, then new section. Painted it black for OEM look.

Along with new tie rod end, no play but got a good deal on lemforder so changed them whilst in there and before wheel alignment.