Hi Guys
Been painting my calipers, what a bitch of a job that was, all screws were rounded and seized, then one retaining pin was completely stuck and mangled. Took me an hour to get it out.
Had to drill out the 6 screws that hold the friction plates in. Took me over 4 hours. Loads of corrosion under the plates.
Got there in the end, but was hell, especially as I didn't remove them from the car. (Pics are before I put retaining pins back in. Had to wait a day for them to arrive)
Went from black to red.
Question I have is, does anyone know where I can buy new torx bolts for the front 8 pot calipers.
The two that hold the divider in place. Mine are a bit knackered?
Tried searching and Google but can't find them.
Thanks in advance.
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FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
Last edited by Stu3y on Sat Apr 08, 2023 9:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- stuartbarriskell
- 4th Gear
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Re: FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
Hi Stu, kind of doing the same right now, though I've hit a major problem..
On your question, if you're of the mind, I'm sure you can leave the bridge off. Someone can correct me on this or agree. Brembo fitted them to stop any flexing of the Caliper when new, I've read you can safely remove the bridge after a "period" as the Caliper is well bedded in, no idea how long this bedding in period would be tho. Or if you are going to replace, then a specialist like Westfield Fasteners or the one up my way (I'll PM you the details when I find them) might be the way to go.
FWIW I swapped out those 5mm Torx shim holders for 5mm S/S socket caps, they look better and if I ever have a problem removing them again there is way more head to work with, the 12 of mine were a pure bastard to get out, I butchered everyone !.. had to. To cap it all off..my coup de graće..sheared one of the nipples, getting this out will be a major problem.. found that other specialist mate..
https://boltbase.com/ Worth firing and email with pics and dimensions, they have a help line thing, you can them to look into oddball and one-off kit.
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On your question, if you're of the mind, I'm sure you can leave the bridge off. Someone can correct me on this or agree. Brembo fitted them to stop any flexing of the Caliper when new, I've read you can safely remove the bridge after a "period" as the Caliper is well bedded in, no idea how long this bedding in period would be tho. Or if you are going to replace, then a specialist like Westfield Fasteners or the one up my way (I'll PM you the details when I find them) might be the way to go.
FWIW I swapped out those 5mm Torx shim holders for 5mm S/S socket caps, they look better and if I ever have a problem removing them again there is way more head to work with, the 12 of mine were a pure bastard to get out, I butchered everyone !.. had to. To cap it all off..my coup de graće..sheared one of the nipples, getting this out will be a major problem.. found that other specialist mate..
https://boltbase.com/ Worth firing and email with pics and dimensions, they have a help line thing, you can them to look into oddball and one-off kit.
Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk
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Re: FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
Cheers, will look up the bolt site and take a look
Will probably order some screws like that just in case. Sadly one of mine the head snapped off so had to drill it out, and fit a larger self tapper in it.
With regards to the bridge bolts, I have found a company that sell them. I used the company for the retaining springs and pins.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125286173288 ... media=COPY
My calipers are all back together and working, but two of the bridge bolts were very difficult to get back in. One had a damaged thread so would not go all the way without a lot of effort.
I mainly wanted to replace then to prevent issues in the future, but refuse to pay £70 quid for 4 bolts.
Will keep searching for a cheaper option for now
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
Will probably order some screws like that just in case. Sadly one of mine the head snapped off so had to drill it out, and fit a larger self tapper in it.
With regards to the bridge bolts, I have found a company that sell them. I used the company for the retaining springs and pins.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125286173288 ... media=COPY
My calipers are all back together and working, but two of the bridge bolts were very difficult to get back in. One had a damaged thread so would not go all the way without a lot of effort.
I mainly wanted to replace then to prevent issues in the future, but refuse to pay £70 quid for 4 bolts.
Will keep searching for a cheaper option for now
Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
- stuartbarriskell
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 573
- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:32 am
- Location: Dumbarton, Scotland
- Contact:
Re: FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
Yea mate, addiction is where I got my seal kit, springs and retainers, they ain't cheap.
The problem with buying low production units like these bridge bolts are/is the tooling costs required to actually machine them, this unfortunately is whacked on to the few that buy them.
Those M5 Capped Torx heads not only look smart they have additional functionality, I got them from Westfield, and I think I gave you the link.
Some semi-loctite is all you need of 2 or 3 of the 1st threads, less is more where aftermarket thread lock is used, mild would work but I prefer stainless for the chrome content as it more resistant to mixed metal corrosion and definitely Ti for the bleed nipples. If only they had used Ti at the factory, I likey wouldn't have the issue I have.
The seized nipple had never been cracked in years. The fluid that came out of that area of the Caliper was black and watery, clearly the Calipers had not been bled properly.
Stu
Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk
The problem with buying low production units like these bridge bolts are/is the tooling costs required to actually machine them, this unfortunately is whacked on to the few that buy them.
Those M5 Capped Torx heads not only look smart they have additional functionality, I got them from Westfield, and I think I gave you the link.
Some semi-loctite is all you need of 2 or 3 of the 1st threads, less is more where aftermarket thread lock is used, mild would work but I prefer stainless for the chrome content as it more resistant to mixed metal corrosion and definitely Ti for the bleed nipples. If only they had used Ti at the factory, I likey wouldn't have the issue I have.
The seized nipple had never been cracked in years. The fluid that came out of that area of the Caliper was black and watery, clearly the Calipers had not been bled properly.
Stu
Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk
Current stable: B8 RS4.
13 BMW HP4 Track/Road
21 BMW S1000RR Sold
04 ZX 10R Sold
MV Agusta Reparto Corse Sold
GoneB7 RS4
Gone B7 S4
Gone 1.8 T
Gone A3
13 BMW HP4 Track/Road
21 BMW S1000RR Sold
04 ZX 10R Sold
MV Agusta Reparto Corse Sold
GoneB7 RS4
Gone B7 S4
Gone 1.8 T
Gone A3
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