Carbon clean

[Chinny]

Hi all

For those that have had their engines carbon cleaned. What have you paid for it and what services were provided??

I’ve been given a cost of £999 which includes physical carbon cleaning with crushed walnut using the Genuine Audi Tool and all 8 injectors overhauled.

Does that sound about right & what is “the Genuine Audi Tool”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[demon8991]

I was charged around $1000 AUD (£500) and trust me we pay a big Australian Audi Tax here. £1000 does sound a little steep to be honest.

This was at Audi using the "Genuine" tool, all this means is they have a OEM tool that cleans the valves. Speaking with my Audi techs they said they used to use a tool the workshop guys had a essentially built however as this was a common maintenance item Audi created their own tool for dealerships to use.

I am not 100% sure if they did anything with the injectors as I don't pretend to know exactly what is involved but they had the manifold off and completely cleaned that in a chemical solution.

This is my thread with pictures.

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=132829&p=921724#p921724

[Chinny]

I was charged around $1000 AUD (£500) and trust me we pay a big Australian Audi Tax here. £1000 does sound a little steep to be honest.

This was at Audi using the "Genuine" tool, all this means is they have a OEM tool that cleans the valves. Speaking with my Audi techs they said they used to use a tool the workshop guys had a essentially built however as this was a common maintenance item Audi created their own tool for dealerships to use.

I am not 100% sure if they did anything with the injectors as I don't pretend to know exactly what is involved but they had the manifold off and completely cleaned that in a chemical solution.

This is my thread with pictures.

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=132829&p=921724#p921724

Thanks bud. Got the car going for a major service with Audi in a couple of weeks will ask them how much they charge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rocket1]

I don't think Audi will do as thorough job as the specialists around. I'd say that's a good price with the Injectors refurbed too

[S700REX]

I've been looking at the same...

Spoke with Regal Autosport in Southampton https://www.regalautosport.com They said that it could end up being as much as £1500.

Spoke to Autowork Salisbury https://www.autoworkvwaudi.co.uk/ who quoted around £800.

For what it's worth Jason at Autowork has looked after my cars for around 5 years now and I've always been impressed with their service. Unless I find a significantly better deal they will do mine at some point this year.

Both will do the clean using a walnut blaster etc rather than the chemical methods.

Keen to hear of others experiences/quotes too.

[forbzeeee]

Have you had a quote from MRC recently?

[Chinny]

Have you had a quote from MRC recently?

No mate It’s a bit far I’m in Slough

I got the quote from this company


https://www.vrt-slough.co.uk/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Covkiller]

MRC £908

http://www.mrctuning.com/index.php/audi ... /rs4-b7-2/

[RS4LAD]

If you’re in slough there’s a place called ‘Rads Cars’ in Maidenhead I believe. They’re great at what they do and very thorough. Very reasonably priced also

[mojoe]

Just finished doing this myself. Car is much improved,noticable increase in top end power,but torque at very low revs as dropped. maybe all that carbon was creating a venturi effect ?
Before starting the job,had a good search on the net ,but couldn't find any proper instructions,so had to take IT STEP BY STEP. But feel very satisfied that I have improved my car myself and saved alot of money.
If you fancy doing yourself,this is the way I did it. But don't blame me if you drop anything or have aN accident burn your car etc. Entirely at your own risk !
To start I attacked the bulkhead end. Remove carbon cover,disconnect all pipes and connectors and carbon cover bracket. Take off emisson pipe,by squeesing together tabs and pulling pipe,one on each cam cover,one on oil sperator,by the bulkhead. Next take off the top 3 bolts from the oil seperator,2 by the oil filter cover 1 on the top of the seperator.Take of the throttle body and feed pipe 2 hoses on this.Next I took of the earth wire from the nearside bank, near to the cam coverunclip connectors and moved wiring loom out of the way.
Next remove small hose under throttle pipe. You can now see the small pipe which conects to the water pipe ,which connects to both banks. Place a bowl under the car, coolant is going to piss out This is connected by one of those crimp clips so is a pain too seperate,on reinstalling I used a jubille clip. Disconnect battery earth,remove fuel pipe connections,remove from car.
Remove engine lift brackets,both sides,unclip loom ,tirst
Undo 10 manifold bolts. Move to the front of the car I unclipped top connector Lifted front of manifold up,unclip other connector disconnected small vacuum hose.
Manifold shoud lift up. What I did was lift the back of the manifold up to gain access to bottom oil seperator bolt. There is a pipe behind it so this was the only way I could think of too undo this bolt. Seperator is connected to back of manifold by a small plastic pipe and o ring,so just pull back to remove
manifold should come off,it's heavy !!
When putting back I first recoonected the oil seperator and bottom bolt, cause when manifold is down is very difficult to put back in there is a pipe connected to the bulkhead which just lines up nicely with the bolt !. Then just reverse removal too put back.
The pipes and loom look a bit of a mess,but I layed out the loom and it was easy to see where every thing connects too.When tightening bolts ,tighten diagonally opposite to 11nm,wait 10 minutes then tighten again.
Took about 20 minutes to clean each port if your not sure if the valves are closed,lightly tap with a blunt scredriver if the valve is closed it will make a dull sound,if open it will make a hollow sound.
Hope this helps if you decide to have a go. But as I say entirelly at your own risk ! If your not sure,leave to the pros. If you have a go and get stuck,drop me a line and I'll try to help

[dhali]

Just finished doing this myself. Car is much improved,noticable increase in top end power,but torque at very low revs as dropped. maybe all that carbon was creating a venturi effect ?
Before starting the job,had a good search on the net ,but couldn't find any proper instructions,so had to take IT STEP BY STEP. But feel very satisfied that I have improved my car myself and saved alot of money.
If you fancy doing yourself,this is the way I did it. But don't blame me if you drop anything or have aN accident burn your car etc. Entirely at your own risk !
To start I attacked the bulkhead end. Remove carbon cover,disconnect all pipes and connectors and carbon cover bracket. Take off emisson pipe,by squeesing together tabs and pulling pipe,one on each cam cover,one on oil sperator,by the bulkhead. Next take off the top 3 bolts from the oil seperator,2 by the oil filter cover 1 on the top of the seperator.Take of the throttle body and feed pipe 2 hoses on this.Next I took of the earth wire from the nearside bank, near to the cam coverunclip connectors and moved wiring loom out of the way.
Next remove small hose under throttle pipe. You can now see the small pipe which conects to the water pipe ,which connects to both banks. Place a bowl under the car, coolant is going to piss out This is connected by one of those crimp clips so is a pain too seperate,on reinstalling I used a jubille clip. Disconnect battery earth,remove fuel pipe connections,remove from car.
Remove engine lift brackets,both sides,unclip loom ,tirst
Undo 10 manifold bolts. Move to the front of the car I unclipped top connector Lifted front of manifold up,unclip other connector disconnected small vacuum hose.
Manifold shoud lift up. What I did was lift the back of the manifold up to gain access to bottom oil seperator bolt. There is a pipe behind it so this was the only way I could think of too undo this bolt. Seperator is connected to back of manifold by a small plastic pipe and o ring,so just pull back to remove
manifold should come off,it's heavy !!
When putting back I first recoonected the oil seperator and bottom bolt, cause when manifold is down is very difficult to put back in there is a pipe connected to the bulkhead which just lines up nicely with the bolt !. Then just reverse removal too put back.
The pipes and loom look a bit of a mess,but I layed out the loom and it was easy to see where every thing connects too.When tightening bolts ,tighten diagonally opposite to 11nm,wait 10 minutes then tighten again.
Took about 20 minutes to clean each port if your not sure if the valves are closed,lightly tap with a blunt scredriver if the valve is closed it will make a dull sound,if open it will make a hollow sound.
Hope this helps if you decide to have a go. But as I say entirelly at your own risk ! If your not sure,leave to the pros. If you have a go and get stuck,drop me a line and I'll try to help

Thanks for putting that up .

[mojoe]

Good luck !!

[Rus4]

Hi there and assuming the guys are still around I’d like to resurrect the carbon clean topic if anyone can help answering my question which is I’m getting a plume of dark grey smoke out the exhaust when accelerating and have searched and am guessing it’s over-fuelling when under load. Now the car is 110k miler but doesn’t burn any oil so it ties in with the fuel theory, but my question is this - will a carbon clean and injector overhaul remedy this please ? Any advice would be much appreciated